Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Jan 13, 2022 at 10:28 PM Post #87,436 of 153,263
I remember it like it was yesterday, shopping at the mall Dec 1998 with my wife (well she was shopping, I was just to standby to carry bags). Been a fan of the air shows at the local NAS and WWII weekends at Reading for years and grew up near 2 NAS's one of which was a test center. Wandered into a Game Spot ( I think it was) and started browsing like I was at Barnes and Noble. I wasn't into gaming, didn't even own a PC, the one at work for work was enough. Saw "Falcon 4" sitting on a shelf, I read the back cover and my mind boggled. The publisher was Microprose. So I bought it for around $65.00. Took it home knowing at some point I'd finally have to buy a PC to make use of it, (Got a Pentium III and 15" (or so) monitor and MS combat stick a month later). It came with a wonderfully fat printed book of instruction. The book and training syllabus was put together with input from a Pete "Boomer" Bonani, an experience F-16 instructor. The instruction manual was fat, and there were 160 key code combinations to remember some of which would be assigned to the stick.

In the opening pages their was something mentioned that I never forgot. "How do you eat an elephant?" "One bite at a time".

And down the flight simming hole I went big time. Some of that CH gear dates from 2000, talk about durability. And I have 2 sets of Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar, one is NOS and still in the box. You can never have enough backups in some hobbies.:laughing:

This was not a game but a serious simulation requiring a good bit of reading and practice. I followed that with MSFS Flight Simulator II (the Pacific campaign) and loved it, still miss it. Somewhere along the line I got introduced to civilian planes and I followed that with all MSFS title offered starting with 2002, as well as some others from other publishers.

Over time with newer OS's and Direct X's and newer hardware, running the older sims became more difficult, but eventually I decided to stay with the MSFS line. Still running MSFS Accel with Win 7 now but will go to the MSFS 2020 and Win 11 in a month or so. Going to stick with A2A planes this time instead of trying every new TOTL offering that comes down the pike.

The changes in sophistication of the addon software over the years has been impressive. The ability to download real time world weather in all parameters while flying with active air traffic and ATC, head tracking gear instead of hat switch panning, ground and in-plane shadowing effects, Orbx and Aerosoft and other software devs provide a very real world to fly in, and on and on, have held my interest. The incredible PMDG line of heavy metal. But I'm more of a stick and rudder guy, give me an A2A J-3 up the Snake River Canyon at all times of year but especially winter, cruising the Pacific NW up through Tongass Fjiords, British Columbia and on to Alaska in a Cherokee or Comanche. Or the islands of Polynesia or New Zealand..........

But, I'm getting off topic and flight simming is unlikely to make the sine wave :laughing:

So back to your regularly scheduled programming!

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MSFS 2020 requires some serious hardware, but oh, my… But no Meigs field (sigh)…
 
Jan 13, 2022 at 10:46 PM Post #87,437 of 153,263
Thanks for the suggestion. This is an original Modi. It is USB powered, there is no connection for a separate power supply.
Did you try a standard USB wall wart? Out put is, I believe 5 VDC and max current is, what, a half amp? Perhaps the wall wart that came with the Modi is bad/weak/worn out? I know you can also plug it into a computer's USB. Hopefully this will help, if not my apologies's. If some one already said this, again I apologize.

ORT
 
Jan 13, 2022 at 11:30 PM Post #87,438 of 153,263
Jan 14, 2022 at 6:02 AM Post #87,441 of 153,263
MSFS 2020 requires some serious hardware, but oh, my… But no Meigs field (sigh)…
True about Meigs and that was a fun approach. Here's what I'm planning with additional options to run 2020, I should be okay for a few years.

Windows 10 Home Edition OR (Windows 11?)
Cooler Master NR200, White
Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR5 OR Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR4
Intel Core i7 12700K, 5.0GHz 12-Core DDR4 OR Intel Core i9 12900K, 5.2GHz 16-Core DDR5
EK 240MM AIO, Premium CPU Liquid Cooling
32GB DDR4, 3600MHz OR 64GB DDR4, 3600MHz
8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 OR 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 +$250.00
750 -Watt Platinum Rated Power Supply
5.1 Channel High Definition Integrated AudioSFX
2TB Samsung 980 Professional NVMe (Preferable to 2TB Western Digital?)
Wired High-Speed Internet Ready (10/100/1000) AND Integrated 802.11ac Wireless (WiFi) Card (Although I plan, as I am currently and have always been, to go hard wired)
20x DVD/CD Burner Drive (External USB)
I plan to use my current MS keyboard and Logitech Trackball, and Bose 2.1 PC speakers
I plan to use my current 40” Sony High-Def TV (1920 x 1080) and replace with 4 K monitor at a later date unless budget total and options picked provide for it.
Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020 (Customer Provided License)
Acronis True Image Backup and Recovery
3 Year Limited Warranty & Lifetime Technical Support
BUDGET: Around $5,000.00
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 7:36 AM Post #87,442 of 153,263
Did you try a standard USB wall wart? Out put is, I believe 5 VDC and max current is, what, a half amp? Perhaps the wall wart that came with the Modi is bad/weak/worn out? I know you can also plug it into a computer's USB. Hopefully this will help, if not my apologies's. If some one already said this, again I apologize.

ORT
Thanks for responding. Apologies completely unnecessary. No wall wart came with the original Modi. It is plugged into a computer’s USB out (for both power and sound, on the same cable).
The Modi does receive power but does not function apart from the white light being powered up. As I mentioned I also tried different USB cables and output devices. Just the white light works on the Modi. I don’t see any way to test it it or try and reset the software or firmware. I am coming to the conclusion that it is toast.
I guess I am now in the market for a new USB DAC. A new Modi comes to mind with its improved functionality and yet the same price as the original. Amazing.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 11:14 AM Post #87,443 of 153,263
True about Meigs and that was a fun approach. Here's what I'm planning with additional options to run 2020, I should be okay for a few years.

Windows 10 Home Edition OR (Windows 11?)
Cooler Master NR200, White
Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR5 OR Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR4
Intel Core i7 12700K, 5.0GHz 12-Core DDR4 OR Intel Core i9 12900K, 5.2GHz 16-Core DDR5
EK 240MM AIO, Premium CPU Liquid Cooling
32GB DDR4, 3600MHz OR 64GB DDR4, 3600MHz
8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 OR 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 +$250.00
750 -Watt Platinum Rated Power Supply
5.1 Channel High Definition Integrated AudioSFX
2TB Samsung 980 Professional NVMe (Preferable to 2TB Western Digital?)
Wired High-Speed Internet Ready (10/100/1000) AND Integrated 802.11ac Wireless (WiFi) Card (Although I plan, as I am currently and have always been, to go hard wired)
20x DVD/CD Burner Drive (External USB)
I plan to use my current MS keyboard and Logitech Trackball, and Bose 2.1 PC speakers
I plan to use my current 40” Sony High-Def TV (1920 x 1080) and replace with 4 K monitor at a later date unless budget total and options picked provide for it.
Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020 (Customer Provided License)
Acronis True Image Backup and Recovery
3 Year Limited Warranty & Lifetime Technical Support
BUDGET: Around $5,000.00
Nice spec. I went Ryzen 7 as the new gen intels weren’t out yet. Make sure your MB takes advantage of the new intelligent threading. Also, yes on the Samsung M.2. Wait until you experience booting from an M.2. O. M. G.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 12:09 PM Post #87,444 of 153,263
I just built a new PC for gaming. I'd already been on SSD drives so that wasn't an improvement but new MB and quality Noctua fans/coolers everywhere has made my PC almost silent. I went with an unlocked Intel I5 since I only game on it and wouldn't see any improvement from spending more on an I7 or I9.

Good luck getting a video card. Plan on spending almost $1,000 for a 3070 or 3080. That is the one piece I haven't upgraded yet and am still running my 1070TI. Hopefully they will come down in price by the end of summer when I will need to upgrade.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 1:06 PM Post #87,445 of 153,263
Have you checked out Boosted Media on utoob?
https://www.youtube.com/c/BoostedMediaOfficial
Yup, I've followed him for a while.

True about Meigs and that was a fun approach. Here's what I'm planning with additional options to run 2020, I should be okay for a few years.

Windows 10 Home Edition OR (Windows 11?)
Cooler Master NR200, White
Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR5 OR Gigabyte Z690i Aorus Ultra, DDR4
Intel Core i7 12700K, 5.0GHz 12-Core DDR4 OR Intel Core i9 12900K, 5.2GHz 16-Core DDR5
EK 240MM AIO, Premium CPU Liquid Cooling
32GB DDR4, 3600MHz OR 64GB DDR4, 3600MHz
8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 OR 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070 +$250.00
750 -Watt Platinum Rated Power Supply
5.1 Channel High Definition Integrated AudioSFX
2TB Samsung 980 Professional NVMe (Preferable to 2TB Western Digital?)
Wired High-Speed Internet Ready (10/100/1000) AND Integrated 802.11ac Wireless (WiFi) Card (Although I plan, as I am currently and have always been, to go hard wired)
20x DVD/CD Burner Drive (External USB)
I plan to use my current MS keyboard and Logitech Trackball, and Bose 2.1 PC speakers
I plan to use my current 40” Sony High-Def TV (1920 x 1080) and replace with 4 K monitor at a later date unless budget total and options picked provide for it.
Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020 (Customer Provided License)
Acronis True Image Backup and Recovery
3 Year Limited Warranty & Lifetime Technical Support
BUDGET: Around $5,000.00
That's a nice setup. In an SFF case like the NR200 I would recommend the i7 as it's much easier to cool vs. the 12th gen i9 (which will thermal throttle even with 360 AIO's). If you are only using this for gaming I personally wouldn't waste the $$$ on DDR5, as good DDR4 like you have listed will be way cheaper plus it's actually available and in most games DDR5 is little if no benefit, now if you are going to be using the machine for work tasks as well then you might be better off with DDR5.
 
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Jan 14, 2022 at 1:25 PM Post #87,446 of 153,263
Yup, I've followed him for a while.


That's a nice setup. In an SFF case like the NR200 I would recommend the i7 as it's much easier to cool vs. the 12th gen i9 (which will thermal throttle even with 360 AIO's). If you are only using this for gaming I personally wouldn't waste the $$$ on DDR5, as good DDR4 like you have listed will be way cheaper plus it's actually available and in most games DDR5 is little if no benefit, now if you are going to be using the machine for work tasks as well then you might be better off with DDR5.
This will be a dedicated for MSFS only, so thanks for the tip on DDR4.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 1:33 PM Post #87,447 of 153,263
Sorry to de-rail the thread with a technical issue, but thought given the vast array of expertise someone here might have a helpful suggestion. My Schitt Modi appears to have stopped functioning. It was hooked up to my RPi and working just fine before Christmas, as it has for several years. I haven't made any set up changes. Now the RPi does not recognize nor does it acknowledge that the Modi is there. The rpi suggests that the cable may be bad, but I think I have eliminated that possbiIity.
I also connected the Modi to my MacBook Pro and again, it as if its not there. It doesn't appear in System Preferences/Sound either, which I believe in the past it would have. The Modi does show its powered up (ie the light is on, but nobodies home). I tried a different cable and no change.
Is there anything else I could try to see if the Modi is functional? As it doesn't have a 're-set' apart from powering it off and on I don't see much else I can do.
If it's an original Modi, I'd assume it's out of warranty. And since it's got only USB input and is only powered by that USB, there's not much to do except try it with different devices. If it doesn't show up on the RPi or Mac, then I'm guessing the USB receiver probably crapped out. Getting it repaired is probably not worth it if that's the case, and getting a new Modi for $99 is probably your best bet. It'll have better USB and also higher output voltage and better performance as well.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 1:37 PM Post #87,448 of 153,263
So this guy says in relation to restoring vintage tube gear:

“I highly advise against playing these units without proper restoration, since wall voltage is quite a bit higher than when these were new and this increases the voltages in the amp. There are many mods we do to Fisher gear to make them safer and run a little cooler on modern wall current.”

What the heck does he mean by “wall voltage is quite a bit higher”? Was 110V actually more like 100V in the 1970s and now it’s closer to 120V? This makes no sense to me.

Any guesses as to what he’s talking about?

https://www.gearpatrol.com/tech/audio/g38768641/most-popular-vintage-receivers/
.
 
Jan 14, 2022 at 1:52 PM Post #87,449 of 153,263
Quick technical question:

Regarding Multibit DACs, the consensus here is that they operate best if allowed to warm up "for a long time" or even "all the time". Can someone explain how the sound can continue to change/improve after a stable operating temperature has been maintained for, say, 30 or 60 minutes following a cold start?

Note, this question applies specifically to warmup, and excludes changes due to break-in (if any exist). Consider the unit in question has had adequate hours of use to have achieved long-term break-in.
 
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Jan 14, 2022 at 2:57 PM Post #87,450 of 153,263
So this guy says in relation to restoring vintage tube gear:

“I highly advise against playing these units without proper restoration, since wall voltage is quite a bit higher than when these were new and this increases the voltages in the amp. There are many mods we do to Fisher gear to make them safer and run a little cooler on modern wall current.”

What the heck does he mean by “wall voltage is quite a bit higher”? Was 110V actually more like 100V in the 1970s and now it’s closer to 120V? This makes no sense to me.

Any guesses as to what he’s talking about?

https://www.gearpatrol.com/tech/audio/g38768641/most-popular-vintage-receivers/
.
yes, line voltage in the 1970's was closer to 110V, maybe a bit below at times, whereas the voltage is now 120v or sometimes a bit above that. Some UPS display the input line voltage real-time (I see 119 to 122v typically). so that is basically a 10% increase in line input voltage, which will stress the b+ capacitors (if they were spec'd with minimal working voltage headroom to maximize the capacitance for a given volume / CV product) and the tube filaments which will run hotter have reduced operating life. bias current and hence overall power dissipation could also be impacted as well.

if you look at vintage electrical items, the nameplate ratings can list 110V, 115V, 117v, or 120v depending on when they were manufactured.
 

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