Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Nov 26, 2016 at 1:51 PM Post #14,251 of 150,608
If I needed a 40+ inch monitor to do FMEA's that would be even more reason not to get a 40+ inch monitor
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 2:35 PM Post #14,252 of 150,608
If I needed a 40+ inch monitor to do FMEA's that would be even more reason not to get a 40+ inch monitor


I don't NEED it for my FMEA's, it just makes an unpleasant task easier and I get it done quicker and can move on to more pleasant things.

Massive screen real estate is great for really large spreadsheets, she. You Fi d yourself constantly having to scroll back and forward.

Every job has parts you like and parts you don't like. As I see it why not make the not so fun parts quicker and get them over with, so you can focus on the good parts?
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 3:12 PM Post #14,253 of 150,608
  The Schiit amps still have their built in delays when hit with an external power strip just like the switch on the back. These wifi switches do work really well though, I am enjoying them quite a bit!


Want one of these for my Valhalla 2 so I can have it turn on and warm up before use. iHome the best for the price you've come across? Or have you found anything better after some experience with them?
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 5:01 PM Post #14,254 of 150,608

 
$12. RF, Wifi not required. Can't be operated from your phone, which is unimportant in this use case. I use one like this to power cycle my ceiling mounted projector when it gets confused - something I would never need to do remotely using my phone anyway.
 
https://www.amazon.com/JTD-Auto-programmable-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B013F9JJ72
 
OR
 

 
$18. If you want to turn more than one thing on at a time.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Electrician-RC-012-1-TR-009-Remote-Control/dp/B001DF2QDK
 
[Edit:] In case I wasn't clear: I think it is a positive advantage that these things are not controllable from your phone. By not requiring a hub or tying into your WiFi network they fail to provide an entry point of failure for digital security in your home. We've seen recently that poorly secured and designed Internet of Things devices can be easily compromised and provide insecure points of entry into your home network. Simple RF on/off switches don't contribute to that insecurity.
.
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 5:37 PM Post #14,255 of 150,608
A Quick Holiday Update on Vidar   
 
Okay, since I like doing this kind of stuff better than sitting in front of the TV or shopping, here’s a quick update on where we are with Vidar. The good news: we now know exactly what we’re going to do thermally, and that it will work just fine.
 
Bold words, given the history of Vidar to date? Maybe. But read on, and make your own decision.
 
First, we have chosen a heatsink and a matching chassis design. Which means we now know our costs to fairly high precision. The bad news: the cost doesn’t go down. However, it also doesn’t go up, either, so if you were planning on a $699 Vidar, you’ll be happy with a $699 Vidar.
 
So what will this thing look like? In the end, it’ll be pretty similar to what we showed at RMAF…with the exception of having two heatsinks running along either side. These heatsinks are actually structural components of the chassis, which reduces the cost of the bottom chassis (but, of course, the heatsinks are more expensive, so there you go.
 
In the end, it will look something like this:
 

 
 
Note that the heatsink reliefs on the top chassis may or may not end up making the cut…we’ll see, we’re still playing with the cosmetics a bit.
 
In either case, though, the amp is now thermally fine.
 
How do I know? Welllllll…here’s the irony: the heatsink profile I ended up choosing was one that I used at Sumo in 1991.
 
It’s funny, because I didn’t realize it until I was drawing it up. Then I was like, “Wait a minute, this thing looks familiar.” A few measurements of the Sumo Antares amp I have in my office confirmed: yep, this is the same heatsink.
 
And this heatsink has already been qualified for 1/3 power preconditioning…on a piece of heatsink ½” shorter, stuck inside a steel chassis (not open to free air), and running both channels of a 60WPC amp.  So, we’re more than covered for a 100WPC amp, especially considering we have 240% more heat dissipation area, and it’s out in free air.
 
Of course, there’s still a lot to do, including:
 
  • Finalizing the cosmetics of the top chassis.
  • Ordering first article metal to build a final prototype.
  • Qualifying the final prototype.
  • Placing the big orders for production.
  • Managing the inevitable parts shortages.
  • Qualifying the first production boards from our PCB assemblers.
  • Beginning full production.
 
Still, I think we’ll hit Q1 on this one. Just don’t expect it in January.
 
Or February.
 
Or early in March.
 
You get the picture.
 
Schiit Audio Stay updated on Schiit Audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/Schiit/ http://www.schiit.com/
Nov 26, 2016 at 6:11 PM Post #14,256 of 150,608
 The Schiit amps still have their built in delays when hit with an external power strip just like the switch on the back. These wifi switches do work really well though, I am enjoying them quite a bit!


Want one of these for my Valhalla 2 so I can have it turn on and warm up before use. iHome the best for the price you've come across? Or have you found anything better after some experience with them?


I bought them at Home Depot for $29
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 6:16 PM Post #14,257 of 150,608
What is the total chassis + tube height for the Saga & Freya?
 
(I only see chassis height in the specs).
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 6:21 PM Post #14,258 of 150,608
  What is the total chassis + tube height for the Saga & Freya?
 
(I only see chassis height in the specs).

 
That sounds like something you might have an easier time getting a quick answer to if you just email them info@schiit.com.
 
They really are as good as they say at getting back to people and answering their questions.   Here it may just get lost among a sea of posts in a 951 page, 14,000+ comment thread :p
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 8:11 PM Post #14,261 of 150,608
Jason, thanks for the Vidar update. Just keep doing what you're doing! If you can make a $1400 pair of 400wpc balanced monoblocks that sound as good as your "personal audio" gear, you should prepare for a long waiting list. No one* is doing anything even close to that.

* OK, I guess Emotiva's XPA-1 is in the ballpark at 600wpc and $1k-ish. Still, I'd argue that $1400 and $2k (or $2400 not on sale) is a big gap. Like "add a Freya" big.

The real question is what speakers would benefit from this kind of power. And I don't mean "more is always better." I'm seriously curious about which not-unobtanium speakers could use all this juice...
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 8:17 PM Post #14,262 of 150,608
The real question is what speakers would benefit from this kind of power. And I don't mean "more is always better." I'm seriously curious about which not-unobtanium speakers could use all this juice...

 
High end mini-monitors (KEF LS50,  ATC (any model), Dynaudio) are all huge power pigs, having traded sensitivity for smaller size.
 
The new Elacs are also supposed to need a lot of juice, too.
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 9:18 PM Post #14,263 of 150,608
Jason, thanks for the Vidar update. Just keep doing what you're doing! If you can make a $1400 pair of 400wpc balanced monoblocks that sound as good as your "personal audio" gear, you should prepare for a long waiting list. No one* is doing anything even close to that.

* OK, I guess Emotiva's XPA-1 is in the ballpark at 600wpc and $1k-ish. Still, I'd argue that $1400 and $2k (or $2400 not on sale) is a big gap. Like "add a Freya" big.

The real question is what speakers would benefit from this kind of power. And I don't mean "more is always better." I'm seriously curious about which not-unobtanium speakers could use all this juice...

 
I think it's no different than people who buy cars with powerful motors (e.g. massive V8/V12). How much power do you really need to go to work and pick the kids up from school? It's satisfying when you put your foot down...
 
Nov 26, 2016 at 9:40 PM Post #14,265 of 150,608
  I'm wondering... what's the point in making speakers with both low sensitivity and low impedance. They are a "nightmare" for a ton of amps.
 
Do those specs give some sonic/electrical advantage?


Yes, loudspeaker design is such that often sensitivity is sacrificed for other design goals, e.g. small size or better measured specifications. physics means that there's no "free lunch".
 

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