[Ohno Schiitizen]

Time to wake up Jason. It’s Aegir 2 day.

LA time is only 05:08 now .... offer him some time for breakfast and coffee ... and do not drive fast to office ....

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

https://www.schiit.com/products/aegir_2

It is 30Wpc at 8 ohms at stereo mode...

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

@Ripper2860 , Go Go Go ... !

 

[Jason Stoddard]

2024, Chapter 3
Doing the Improbable


Improving Aegir is dead easy: more power, less heat, done.

Except most of the paths that get you there destroy what Aegir is. More power means more volts which means more heat—which is the opposite of what you want. Less heat means lower bias which means less Class-A-ishness—which again, is completely opposed to what the amp is.

So, the question is: how did we manage to deliver more power, less heat, without wrecking Aegir?

Short answer: a lot of learning from other amps.

Longer answer: but that may not be the real question. Because, after all, this is also our first Halo™ speaker amp.

Wrench, meet gears.

The Long, Long, Long Path to Aegir 2

Before tackling the elephant in the room, let me torture you with some backstory about how we got here. Aegir is a pretty old amp. When introduced, it debuted Continuity™, our anti-transconductance-droop output stage, and a convenient standby mode, to our amp lineup. Pretty neat.

But also pretty controversial. The original Aegir was only 20W—1/5 of Vidar’s rated output. And it ran pretty darn hot, too—hot enough to be problematic in warm rooms, or with difficult loads. The noise floor wasn’t super state of the art, mainly due to the insane standing currents. The original standby implementation also didn’t reduce standing power as much as we wanted, and the heavy load on the transformer resulted in us having to sort for noise in production.

Sounds terrible? Nah, this is the making-of-the-sausage stuff that people don’t ever talk about it. We’re insane, so we talk about it.

Aside: please, another manufacturer, jump in and tell us your products are perfect. I need a good laugh.​

But—on the sunny side, Aegir, with the right speakers, in the right (cool) room, sounded very, very good. It consistently trounced Vidar in blind listening at the Schiitr (but not on Magnepans, which it couldn’t drive very well.) Tons of people found nirvana with Aegir and efficient speakers. I loved it to Zus and Klipsch.

But yeah…more power, less heat. How to deliver the impossible?

I took a couple of half-hearted (0.8) jabs at this problem, but I don’t know if I ever even finished the boards. Because they weren’t an Aegir anymore.

Aside: and for those saying “throw a choke in it,” I ask, “Where?” There’s no space.​

The first piece for a new Aegir fell into place due to a fortuitous finding, and a mistake. The bit of luck came in the transition from an EI transformer in Ragnarok 2 to a toroid. Spurred by the difficulty, cost, and reliability problems with building an EI transformer, wrapping it in mu-metal, and potting it into a welded box, we decided to try a toroid as an alternate.

That toroid was:

• Quieter
• Better sounding
• Easier to install
• Less expensive
• Oh and they all worked—no sorting necessary

Yes. The toroids that Mike likes to make fun of work better in Ragnarok 2. Better by all metrics. Weird stuff. Sometimes you don’t know what will work and what won’t. I can speculate that the original Ragnarok 2 was a bit “fat” sounding and the new transformer leaned it out complementarily, but that’s a guess. All I know is a Ragnarok 2 started gracing my desk as soon as the toroid happened.

And, as soon as we did that to Ragnarok 2, I started wondering: what about a toroid in Aegir 2? Because the Ragnarok 2 and Aegir transformers are virtually the same, other than the insane amount of shielding we wrapped around the Ragnarok version.

So I tried it. I put a Ragnarok 2 transformer in Aegir.

• Sad trombone: noise floor remained the same.
• Happy trombone: power output increased slightly.
• Sad trombone: didn’t fit very well.
• Happy trombone: mechanical noise was a lot lower, even lower than the best EI transformers.

So yeah, 50-50.

But then we come to the mistake.

The mistake being: we ordered wayyyyyyyyy toooooo many Ragnarok 2 transformers. This is in the pre-ERP days, and it illustrates the problem with flying by the seat of your pants.

How many is too many? Like 3 years worth.

This is dumb.

But if we put them in an Aegir 2…

And that’s how Aegir 2 got a toroid.

But that’s not the end of the story, not by a long shot. While we were doing that, I was putting the finishing touches on Tyr, including deciding what kind of Continuity we’d be using (re the Tyr chapter: Embedded Continuity vs Enhanced Continuity). This was especially pressing on Tyr, given the high power output targets. There’s no way Tyr would be able to use the original Continuity idea from Aegir and survive without melting down.

So, Tyr was the place we experimented with Enhanced Continuity, and discovered that we could use a single corrector to linearize a slew of output transistors, rather than one corrector per output.

This was a game changer.

This is why Tyr runs fairly cool, and still delivers the benefits of Continuity.

And, I realized: we could put a scaled-down version of this in Aegir 2.

And that’s about the time I started thinking of it as “Aegir 2,” something distinctly different than Aegir, something that really upped the Aegir game. So I did a board using the Tyr tricks, moved things around to accommodate the toroid, and did a prototype.

Sounded pretty good!

Had quite a bit more power!

Ran a lot cooler!

All wins. All ready to go. Time for an Aegir 2.

Except…


Enter Halo

Except at the time I was also working on Magnius 2, aka Midgard, and trying to find a way to justify the existence of a 4-pin XLR on the front panel…which is the exploration that resulted in Halo, which we recently introduced to the headphone world, with the controversial decision not to jump in with full research data.

Aside: which again, wouldn’t have mattered. There’s always a problem with methodology or conflict of interest or whatever.​

Aside to the aside: except in the case of the Harman curve, which I’m surprised nobody has bitched about as being (a) done by a company wanting to sell you things using the curve, and (b) not verified by independent researchers, especially those from the academic community. Weird. But who are we to talk.​

And that’s when I got a brilliant/crazy idea: throw Halo on Aegir 2.

Yeah.

So I did. This is the prototype I brought to the “Class A versus the rest” meet at the Schiitr. This is a meet that came with some mixed results: some preferred Class A, some preferred Continuity, some preferred Class AB on the modified Aegirs. We didn’t put the prototype Aegir 2 in the official blind test, but we played it for some friends afterwards. The results:

It slaughtered all versions of Aegir. Zero contest. 100% the winner.

Now, putting Halo on a speaker amp isn’t a slam dunk. Not by a long shot. For one, it kills what is known as traditional “damping factor,” as in, the impedance of the load divided by the output impedance of the amp. For Aegir, this was a respectable-but-not-thrilling 100. For Aegir 2, we’re at 10. Maybe. Ish.

But Halo isn’t a normal thing. So maybe damping factor is less meaningful.

But let’s talk Halo some more. In case you missed it, Halo is our mixed-mode motion feedback that puts the driver into the feedback network. Some people have found this to reduce distortion at the driver. Some challenge that assertion. Our own results are mixed. And so we resort to weasel-words like “may increase acoustic performance.” Sorry. But we think you prefer that to many years of research that would result in a much more expensive amp, plus research results that many would argue invalid.

Halo is named because it may be a thing, or it may not.

If it improves performance at the driver, then we have a holy grail moment, one that upends the entire measurement community. Because a -120dB amp and a -80dB amp have the same results on a -40dB driver…but if Halo ups -40dB to, say -45dB, that’s a HUGE DEAL.

If it doesn’t improve performance at the driver, then we still have the inconvenient fact that most people who have heard it hear a difference, including on blind tests. And that suggests we may not be measuring the right things. And that’s still a pretty big deal.

So, in Aegir 2, you get Halo.

I expect that, if there is a difference to be measured, it’ll be found in the world of the loudspeaker, rather than the headphone. Loudspeakers are big devices with a ton of inertia, unlike headphones. So, yeah: ported speaker, look around the resonance point. See what you find.

Maybe gold. Maybe an illusion. Hence, Halo.

​

Vidar 2’s Contribution

Simple enough: Vidar 2’s improved standby made it into the Aegir 2. Introduced in Aegir, standby worked OK, at first reducing Aegir’s 100W draw to 20W or so, and, later on, with some tweaks, getting it down to 5-10W.

Vidar 2 slaughters this. It’s 1-2W. So that went into Aegir 2.

Why is it so much better? Because it shuts down the complete HV rails for the amp, bringing everything to a standstill (while maintaining voltage across the outputs). It’s far better than Aegir’s de-biasing of the outputs.

And, to be frank, it completely eliminates the need for a front panel power switch.

Neener.


Intangibles

Of course, improvement is usually about more than taking ideas from other amps, and there are tons of these little improvements, or intangibles, on Aegir 2. Everything was gone through, everything was tweaked and changed to make it better.

Like what? Like:

• Discrete Schottky rectification. To improve efficiency, we went from Schottky bridges to discrete Schottky rectification diodes—16 in total. This ensures we have the least loss from transformer to output stage.
• MELF and silicon. What’s MELF? It’s a metal thin-film resistor without leads. These resistors offer high thermal capability, coupled with excellent stability…exactly the thing you need for a current-feedback amplifier. Silicon capacitors for compensation? Simply the most ideal capacitors you’ll find (at very high cost). Or, in English: gigadollar amps have nothing on Aegir 2.
• Optimized layout. Sounds like not a big deal, right? No. Amp layout is usually make or break—much more important than topology or parts. Like Vidar 2, Aegir 2 has been completely gone through and delivers much much higher performance, in large part thanks to an optimized layout.

But, even with all these changes and improvements, we know that some of you still have one big question on your mind…


Is 30W Enough?

“Okay, Stoddard. 30W is more than 20W, and that’s great and all, but it still sounds small, and I don’t know if it’s enough for me. Is it?”

Unfortunately, I can’t hack your Alexa webcams and look at your listening rooms and assess what volume level you consider “enough.” So I can’t answer definitively.

What I can answer is:

• For a general guideline, if you have Magnepans, don’t bother. Maggies need a lot of current and voltage. Unless you listen very quietly, you probably are going to be better off with Vidar and Tyr.
• For high efficiency speakers (Zu, Klipsch, etc), you’re probably golden. Heck, I use Rekkr on Klipsch and it goes very very loud. Aegir 2 is 15x the power. Woohoo.
• For the 90% of everything in-between, it gets harder. Small room or nearfield? Aegir 2 is gonna be fine with most anything. Big room and you like to play loud? Maybe not. Sorry to be less specific. All I can say is that we’ve had good results on almost everything 88dB efficient and up. But watch the impedance curve. If your 88dB efficient speaker drops to 2 ohms over a wide range, it may not be super happy with Aegir 2.

The other question that a lot of you have is “what about mono?” Because Aegir 2, in mono, offers that oh-so-tempting 100 whole watts at 8 ohms, and that’s half as much as a Tyr, and that sounds very, very good.

In short: mono is very good, but it reduces the number of speakers you’re compatible with. Mono means you’re driving both sides of the speaker, so impedance is halved. So if you’re running an 8 ohm nominal speaker, you’re really looking at 4 ohms. A 4 ohm speaker is 2 ohms. A 2 ohm dip is 1 ohm. And so on.

In short short: Vidar and Tyr are gonna be better for tough loads.

​

Aside: and let’s stop this “stable into…” stuff. “Stable” has an engineering definition, as in “does not oscillate.” Our amps are stable into all loads. They may shut off due to thermal or overcurrent conditions if you go too crazy into too low of an impedance, but they are stable…and safe. ​

​

Aside to the aside: as evidenced by some insane people using Tyrs to drive Raal ribbon headphones DIRECTLY, as in, connect Tyr (a differential amp, each half seeing half the load) into 0.2 ohms. No problem. Don’t crank it up, or it will click off. But no problem.​

Aside to the aside to the aside: seriously, let’s put this to bed. Stability isn’t the problem. Heat and current are. And when you’re delivering 4x the current, there you go.​

So is Aegir 2 for you? Maybe. If you had an Aegir and you’re happy, absolutely. If you had an Aegir and it shut off from time to time to protect itself, it might be worth a revisit. If you have efficient speakers, you’re great.

Does that help? I hope so.

Because I think Aegir 2 is pretty fantastic.

I hope you enjoy it too!

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

2024, Chapter 3
Doing the Improbable


Improving Aegir is dead easy: more power, less heat, done.

Except most of the paths that get you there destroy what Aegir is. More power means more volts which means more heat—which is the opposite of what you want. Less heat means lower bias which means less Class-A-ishness—which again, is completely opposed to what the amp is.

So, the question is: how did we manage to deliver more power, less heat, without wrecking Aegir?

Short answer: a lot of learning from other amps.

Longer answer: but that may not be the real question. Because, after all, this is also our first Halo™ speaker amp.

Wrench, meet gears.


The Long, Long, Long Path to Aegir 2

Before tackling the elephant in the room, let me torture you with some backstory about how we got here. Aegir is a pretty old amp. When introduced, it debuted Continuity™, our anti-transconductance-droop output stage, and a convenient standby mode, to our amp lineup. Pretty neat.

But also pretty controversial. The original Aegir was only 20W—1/5 of Vidar’s rated output. And it ran pretty darn hot, too—hot enough to be problematic in warm rooms, or with difficult loads. The noise floor wasn’t super state of the art, mainly due to the insane standing currents. The original standby implementation also didn’t reduce standing power as much as we wanted, and the heavy load on the transformer resulted in us having to sort for noise in production.

Sounds terrible? Nah, this is the making-of-the-sausage stuff that people don’t ever talk about it. We’re insane, so we talk about it.

Aside: please, another manufacturer, jump in and tell us your products are perfect. I need a good laugh.​

But—on the sunny side, Aegir, with the right speakers, in the right (cool) room, sounded very, very good. It consistently trounced Vidar in blind listening at the Schiitr (but not on Magnepans, which it couldn’t drive very well.) Tons of people found nirvana with Aegir and efficient speakers. I loved it to Zus and Klipsch.

But yeah…more power, less heat. How to deliver the impossible?

I took a couple of half-hearted (0.8) jabs at this problem, but I don’t know if I ever even finished the boards. Because they weren’t an Aegir anymore.

Aside: and for those saying “throw a choke in it,” I ask, “Where?” There’s no space.​

The first piece for a new Aegir fell into place due to a fortuitous finding, and a mistake. The bit of luck came in the transition from an EI transformer in Ragnarok 2 to a toroid. Spurred by the difficulty, cost, and reliability problems with building an EI transformer, wrapping it in mu-metal, and potting it into a welded box, we decided to try a toroid as an alternate.

That toroid was:

• Quieter
• Better sounding
• Easier to install
• Less expensive
• Oh and they all worked—no sorting necessary

Yes. The toroids that Mike likes to make fun of work better in Ragnarok 2. Better by all metrics. Weird stuff. Sometimes you don’t know what will work and what won’t. I can speculate that the original Ragnarok 2 was a bit “fat” sounding and the new transformer leaned it out complementarily, but that’s a guess. All I know is a Ragnarok 2 started gracing my desk as soon as the toroid happened.

And, as soon as we did that to Ragnarok 2, I started wondering: what about a toroid in Aegir 2? Because the Ragnarok 2 and Aegir transformers are virtually the same, other than the insane amount of shielding we wrapped around the Ragnarok version.

So I tried it. I put a Ragnarok 2 transformer in Aegir.

• Sad trombone: noise floor remained the same.
• Happy trombone: power output increased slightly.
• Sad trombone: didn’t fit very well.
• Happy trombone: mechanical noise was a lot lower, even lower than the best EI transformers.

So yeah, 50-50.

But then we come to the mistake.

The mistake being: we ordered wayyyyyyyyy toooooo many Ragnarok 2 transformers. This is in the pre-ERP days, and it illustrates the problem with flying by the seat of your pants.

How many is too many? Like 3 years worth.

This is dumb.

But if we put them in an Aegir 2…

And that’s how Aegir 2 got a toroid.

But that’s not the end of the story, not by a long shot. While we were doing that, I was putting the finishing touches on Tyr, including deciding what kind of Continuity we’d be using (re the Tyr chapter: Embedded Continuity vs Enhanced Continuity). This was especially pressing on Tyr, given the high power output targets. There’s no way Tyr would be able to use the original Continuity idea from Aegir and survive without melting down.

So, Tyr was the place we experimented with Enhanced Continuity, and discovered that we could use a single corrector to linearize a slew of output transistors, rather than one corrector per output.

This was a game changer.

This is why Tyr runs fairly cool, and still delivers the benefits of Continuity.

And, I realized: we could put a scaled-down version of this in Aegir 2.

And that’s about the time I started thinking of it as “Aegir 2,” something distinctly different than Aegir, something that really upped the Aegir game. So I did a board using the Tyr tricks, moved things around to accommodate the toroid, and did a prototype.

Sounded pretty good!

Had quite a bit more power!

Ran a lot cooler!

All wins. All ready to go. Time for an Aegir 2.

Except…


Enter Halo

Except at the time I was also working on Magnius 2, aka Midgard, and trying to find a way to justify the existence of a 4-pin XLR on the front panel…which is the exploration that resulted in Halo, which we recently introduced to the headphone world, with the controversial decision not to jump in with full research data.

Aside: which again, wouldn’t have mattered. There’s always a problem with methodology or conflict of interest or whatever.​

Aside to the aside: except in the case of the Harman curve, which I’m surprised nobody has bitched about as being (a) done by a company wanting to sell you things using the curve, and (b) not verified by independent researchers, especially those from the academic community. Weird. But who are we to talk.​

And that’s when I got a brilliant/crazy idea: throw Halo on Aegir 2.

Yeah.

So I did. This is the prototype I brought to the “Class A versus the rest” meet at the Schiitr. This is a meet that came with some mixed results: some preferred Class A, some preferred Continuity, some preferred Class AB on the modified Aegirs. We didn’t put the prototype Aegir 2 in the official blind test, but we played it for some friends afterwards. The results:

It slaughtered all versions of Aegir. Zero contest. 100% the winner.

Now, putting Halo on a speaker amp isn’t a slam dunk. Not by a long shot. For one, it kills what is known as traditional “damping factor,” as in, the impedance of the load divided by the output impedance of the amp. For Aegir, this was a respectable-but-not-thrilling 100. For Aegir 2, we’re at 10. Maybe. Ish.

But Halo isn’t a normal thing. So maybe damping factor is less meaningful.

But let’s talk Halo some more. In case you missed it, Halo is our mixed-mode motion feedback that puts the driver into the feedback network. Some people have found this to reduce distortion at the driver. Some challenge that assertion. Our own results are mixed. And so we resort to weasel-words like “may increase acoustic performance.” Sorry. But we think you prefer that to many years of research that would result in a much more expensive amp, plus research results that many would argue invalid.

Halo is named because it may be a thing, or it may not.

If it improves performance at the driver, then we have a holy grail moment, one that upends the entire measurement community. Because a -120dB amp and a -80dB amp have the same results on a -40dB driver…but if Halo ups -40dB to, say -45dB, that’s a HUGE DEAL.

If it doesn’t improve performance at the driver, then we still have the inconvenient fact that most people who have heard it hear a difference, including on blind tests. And that suggests we may not be measuring the right things. And that’s still a pretty big deal.

So, in Aegir 2, you get Halo.

I expect that, if there is a difference to be measured, it’ll be found in the world of the loudspeaker, rather than the headphone. Loudspeakers are big devices with a ton of inertia, unlike headphones. So, yeah: ported speaker, look around the resonance point. See what you find.

Maybe gold. Maybe an illusion. Hence, Halo.

​

Vidar 2’s Contribution

Simple enough: Vidar 2’s improved standby made it into the Aegir 2. Introduced in Aegir, standby worked OK, at first reducing Aegir’s 100W draw to 20W or so, and, later on, with some tweaks, getting it down to 5-10W.

Vidar 2 slaughters this. It’s 1-2W. So that went into Aegir 2.

Why is it so much better? Because it shuts down the complete HV rails for the amp, bringing everything to a standstill (while maintaining voltage across the outputs). It’s far better than Aegir’s de-biasing of the outputs.

And, to be frank, it completely eliminates the need for a front panel power switch.

Neener.


Intangibles

Of course, improvement is usually about more than taking ideas from other amps, and there are tons of these little improvements, or intangibles, on Aegir 2. Everything was gone through, everything was tweaked and changed to make it better.

Like what? Like:

• Discrete Schottky rectification. To improve efficiency, we went from Schottky bridges to discrete Schottky rectification diodes—16 in total. This ensures we have the least loss from transformer to output stage.
• MELF and silicon. What’s MELF? It’s a metal thin-film resistor without leads. These resistors offer high thermal capability, coupled with excellent stability…exactly the thing you need for a current-feedback amplifier. Silicon capacitors for compensation? Simply the most ideal capacitors you’ll find (at very high cost). Or, in English: gigadollar amps have nothing on Aegir 2.
• Optimized layout. Sounds like not a big deal, right? No. Amp layout is usually make or break—much more important than topology or parts. Like Vidar 2, Aegir 2 has been completely gone through and delivers much much higher performance, in large part thanks to an optimized layout.

But, even with all these changes and improvements, we know that some of you still have one big question on your mind…


Is 30W Enough?

“Okay, Stoddard. 30W is more than 20W, and that’s great and all, but it still sounds small, and I don’t know if it’s enough for me. Is it?”

Unfortunately, I can’t hack your Alexa webcams and look at your listening rooms and assess what volume level you consider “enough.” So I can’t answer definitively.

What I can answer is:

• For a general guideline, if you have Magnepans, don’t bother. Maggies need a lot of current and voltage. Unless you listen very quietly, you probably are going to be better off with Vidar and Tyr.
• For high efficiency speakers (Zu, Klipsch, etc), you’re probably golden. Heck, I use Rekkr on Klipsch and it goes very very loud. Aegir 2 is 15x the power. Woohoo.
• For the 90% of everything in-between, it gets harder. Small room or nearfield? Aegir 2 is gonna be fine with most anything. Big room and you like to play loud? Maybe not. Sorry to be less specific. All I can say is that we’ve had good results on almost everything 88dB efficient and up. But watch the impedance curve. If your 88dB efficient speaker drops to 2 ohms over a wide range, it may not be super happy with Aegir 2.

The other question that a lot of you have is “what about mono?” Because Aegir 2, in mono, offers that oh-so-tempting 100 whole watts at 8 ohms, and that’s half as much as a Tyr, and that sounds very, very good.

In short: mono is very good, but it reduces the number of speakers you’re compatible with. Mono means you’re driving both sides of the speaker, so impedance is halved. So if you’re running an 8 ohm nominal speaker, you’re really looking at 4 ohms. A 4 ohm speaker is 2 ohms. A 2 ohm dip is 1 ohm. And so on.

In short short: Vidar and Tyr are gonna be better for tough loads.

​

Aside: and let’s stop this “stable into…” stuff. “Stable” has an engineering definition, as in “does not oscillate.” Our amps are stable into all loads. They may shut off due to thermal or overcurrent conditions if you go too crazy into too low of an impedance, but they are stable…and safe. ​

​

Aside to the aside: as evidenced by some insane people using Tyrs to drive Raal ribbon headphones DIRECTLY, as in, connect Tyr (a differential amp, each half seeing half the load) into 0.2 ohms. No problem. Don’t crank it up, or it will click off. But no problem.​

Aside to the aside to the aside: seriously, let’s put this to bed. Stability isn’t the problem. Heat and current are. And when you’re delivering 4x the current, there you go.​

So is Aegir 2 for you? Maybe. If you had an Aegir and you’re happy, absolutely. If you had an Aegir and it shut off from time to time to protect itself, it might be worth a revisit. If you have efficient speakers, you’re great.

Does that help? I hope so.

Because I think Aegir 2 is pretty fantastic.

I hope you enjoy it too!

Good Morning, Jason ~

 

[Jason Stoddard]

And, before anyone takes me to task: yep, I know you need internal photos of the Aegir 2. I'll get those today. Lots of moving parts right now, in business and in life.

 

[Ripper2860]

AEGIR 2 is up on the Schiit Site. ORDER HAS BEEN PLACED!! Woohoo!!!

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

And, before anyone takes me to task: yep, I know you need internal photos of the Aegir 2. I'll get those today. Lots of moving parts right now, in business and in life.

Aegir 2 is 30W not 25W at stereo mode?

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

AEGIR 2 is up on the Schiit Site. ORDER HAS BEEN PLACED!! Woohoo!!!

Again, you should be dancing, yeah ~~

 

[Moondog55]

I have to call this out. I'll even venture that, while not on the sine wave, this has been gone over here in the past. Meat on a roll with cheese is not a cheesesteak. I think you are describing a buffalo chicken sandwich of some sort. A cheesesteak has particular ingredients prepared in a particular way.

CheezWhiz!

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

Vidar 2 and Aegir 2 shares the same manual.

 

[Ohno Schiitizen]

Is the check out kiosk very busy now?

 

[Mr Rick]

The younger people don't care about manuals because they know everything.

Corrected for you.

 

[adydula]

Well the manuals thing has indeed been discussed!

Whats the real reason for ditching them?
Cost ?
Time ?
PIA ?
etc..?

They arent very fancy, but full of Jasons "humor"...

For me having them in the box, or online is fine. The many good ideas of a QR code etc.

The one thing with this litigious society we live in, is the potential issue of legal actions towards a company that didnt include the old fashion manual.
Someone buys an item, their house burns down or has some damage they think is due to a product...and there was no manual warning "them" of
something....off to the races...

Other than that I like the idea of sending a manual as an attachment to the confirmation email that a customer can download.
Many places offer opting out on paper stuff....sign of the times...sending a copy with the email invoice would be easy to do.

Also include a OR code link on the website for each product.

If you add a QR code on the shipping box, well then that adds cost to the box, and potential errors and God help you if you ship the product in the wrong box!

Oh my..

Alex

 

[shortyg83]

And, before anyone takes me to task: yep, I know you need internal photos of the Aegir 2. I'll get those today. Lots of moving parts right now, in business and in life.

Any chance of a new jotunheim or a balanced headphone amp between the jotunjeim and mjolnir?