Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Jan 25, 2024 at 5:00 PM Post #137,476 of 151,186
That's being very polite. :laughing: Especially the contractor-grade outlets where the Romex is stripped and pushed straight into a hole in the back to be gripped by some flimsy piece of bent metal. Those things suck with a capital S. Got noise in your system? Start there. :laughing:

Fess-up time: I did buy one of those fancy Furutech outlets a while back ($100 at the time) and actually tried to do a comparison. Now trying to do an A/B comparison with a wall outlet is fraught with problems, the foremost being our fallible short-term sonic memory. So lacking the means to be even remotely scientific about it, the first thing I did was replace the crap contractor grade outlet with a good Leviton (more on that below). At least level the playing field to the extent possible. Then I listened for a week -- a couple hours a night to the same 5 songs multiple times. Then I put the Furutech in and listened to the same 5 songs every night for another week. And finally, I put the Leviton back in and listened for a few nights. I really expected to hear a difference, so my preconceived notions were in favor of the Furutech. Well.....I can't honestly say I heard any difference. At least not a recognizable difference that would justify a $5 outlet versus a $100 one. As with their plugs, the Furutech was a work of art from the standpoint of manufacturing quality. No argument there, and impeccable quality impresses me. But sonically? I just couldn't hear any meaningful difference....even though I wanted to. Just being honest about it. That's just my experience and my opinion, of course. Someone else's mileage and opinion may be very different.

Back to the Levitons -- I really like the outlets linked below. Easy to install, as you can still just strip the end off the Romex and stick it in a hole in the back rather than having to wire-wrap it around the side screw(s). The difference is that the side screws on this operate an internal clamp, so rather than some flimsy piece of metal gripping the wire internally, the screw clamps a plate onto the wire. Very solid and tight connection, way more surface area involved between the outlet's inner contacts and the wire, and far easier than having to wire-wrap around the screw. And Leviton is just one brand that has this type configuration. I'm sure Pass and Seymour and others have similar offerings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134AW5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Edit: For people like @Ripper2860 that would probably burn their house down :slight_smile:, if you are not knowledgeable or comfortable messing with the electrical outlets in your abode, PLEASE DON'T! A qualified electrician won't charge all that much if this is something you really want to do and are not comfortable doing it yourself.
Yes, I agree with being able to clamp the wire down securely. That push the wire in I never liked. If you remove one of those plugs from the box it feels like the wires will fall out because they rotate and that cuts the wire slowly. They use even cheaper push fit schiit in RVs. After a while they don't grip at all. Should be illegal UL or not. Plus 15 amp circuits are pushed to their limits, like women's blow dryers. Sorry, I want to clamp the wire down.

In our old house I ran two dedicated 20 amp lines to the listening room and used Leviton 20 amp plugs.

In this house I did the same thing except at the time Audio Advisory was running a sale on their Pangea 20 amp outlets and what was fun was the colors. Red, grey, white, clear. Not prohibitive in price to a good 20 amp Leviton at the Depot.

I don't really know why I thought this would be fun, to have outlets that scream, "I'm different, I'm dedicated. I'm 20amps and I grip like a gorilla!"
IMG_20240125_155058921.jpg

But I did. The Pangea stuff is such an expanded line now from 10 years ago. So these plugs have probably been replaced by more expensive ones, lol. :)


The novel idea of being able to unscrew a solid ground pin is clever on some Pangea power cables also. I have a couple of them. Those flimsy adapters to defeat the ground pin are so wimpy they shouldn't even be sold either, in my opinion with planet encircling variable milage of course. :)
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 5:07 PM Post #137,477 of 151,186
Those of you that buy exact length cables, do you not change things much? Or do you just have a big box of different lengths that you pull from over time? That's always my concern with trying to get exact length cables.

Also, sit/stand desks will make cable organization painful. :D
^^ This
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 5:12 PM Post #137,478 of 151,186
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Jan 25, 2024 at 5:39 PM Post #137,479 of 151,186
For an extension cord from an outlet, in this case 20 amp, I use these around the RV and, ahem, ahhhh, maybe, possibly on rare occasions other places where you want a plug that actually grips and lets the current through and retains it grip. IMG_20240125_132410957.jpg

Some might balk at my local hardware stores price. It's for illustration. So similar plugs that carry 20 amps with ease and keep their grip with use is the idea. I realize indoors you're less likely to step on the plug and crack the plastic....


If it's on display I would probably go the bcowen route. Especially if you like making stuff you have to see everyday! :)

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VHIRaBR0O9ArrEAQYAiABEgJ4S_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

While we're at it a lot of residential wall outlets are, let's say, a bit marginal?
For wall outlets, buy Hubbell 5-20R hospital grade receptacles. About $50 at electrical supply houses.
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 6:08 PM Post #137,482 of 151,186
That's being very polite. :laughing: Especially the contractor-grade outlets where the Romex is stripped and pushed straight into a hole in the back to be gripped by some flimsy piece of bent metal. Those things suck with a capital S. Got noise in your system? Start there. :laughing:

Fess-up time: I did buy one of those fancy Furutech outlets a while back ($100 at the time) and actually tried to do a comparison. Now trying to do an A/B comparison with a wall outlet is fraught with problems, the foremost being our fallible short-term sonic memory. So lacking the means to be even remotely scientific about it, the first thing I did was replace the crap contractor grade outlet with a good Leviton (more on that below). At least level the playing field to the extent possible. Then I listened for a week -- a couple hours a night to the same 5 songs multiple times. Then I put the Furutech in and listened to the same 5 songs every night for another week. And finally, I put the Leviton back in and listened for a few nights. I really expected to hear a difference, so my preconceived notions were in favor of the Furutech. Well.....I can't honestly say I heard any difference. At least not a recognizable difference that would justify a $5 outlet versus a $100 one. As with their plugs, the Furutech was a work of art from the standpoint of manufacturing quality. No argument there, and impeccable quality impresses me. But sonically? I just couldn't hear any meaningful difference....even though I wanted to. Just being honest about it. That's just my experience and my opinion, of course. Someone else's mileage and opinion may be very different.

Back to the Levitons -- I really like the outlets linked below. Easy to install, as you can still just strip the end off the Romex and stick it in a hole in the back rather than having to wire-wrap it around the side screw(s). The difference is that the side screws on this operate an internal clamp, so rather than some flimsy piece of metal gripping the wire internally, the screw clamps a plate onto the wire. Very solid and tight connection, way more surface area involved between the outlet's inner contacts and the wire, and far easier than having to wire-wrap around the screw. And Leviton is just one brand that has this type configuration. I'm sure Pass and Seymour and others have similar offerings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134AW5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Edit: For people like @Ripper2860 that would probably burn their house down :slight_smile:, if you are not knowledgeable or comfortable messing with the electrical outlets in your abode, PLEASE DON'T! A qualified electrician won't charge all that much if this is something you really want to do and are not comfortable doing it yourself.
Electrical devices are available in contractor or consumer grade [cheap], commercial or specification grade [much better], and hospital grade. All of the electrical manufacturers [Leviton, Hubbell, LeGrand, AH&H, etc.] make these grade. A wall outlet can be had for $0.95 to $50. In all cases, ALWAYS side wire the device, NEVER use the push in back wire features. The better grade devices grip the plugs like a gorilla, and really help to get a solid connection. All of my receptacles feeding audio gear, and all of my shop receptacles are hospital grade. All of my kitchen and laundry employ spec grade, and that extends into a good part of the house. When the contractor grade stuff fails, it is replaced with spec grade. All romex in my house is 12 AWG or larger, and ALL receptacles, switches, and GFCIs are side wired. All wiring is copper, including all 200A wire between the utility meter and the transfer switch disconnect.
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 6:30 PM Post #137,486 of 151,186
I originally posted this on the Loki Max thread a few days ago, but not sure if @Jason Stoddard monitors that thread. So sorry for the repost here but...

@Jason Stoddard question for you if you please. I'm a very happy owner of a Mjolnir-3 and a Vidar-2. I am considering adding a Lokius to my stack. In your FAQ for the Lokius you write "Lokius is an inductor-capacitor equalizer. Meaning it uses inductors. Inductors are coils of wire. Think of them like little antennas. They will pick up stray magnetic field from other components if they are too close." And in the FAQ for the Vidar-2 you write "It has serious power reserves, with a 600VA transformer and 40,000uF of filter capacitance..."

Due to the limitations of my space, the Lokius would have to sit next to (not on top of) the Vidar 2, maybe 3-4" of clear space between them. Is that what you'd consider too close? Thanks in advance.
that should work OK with 3 or 4" clearance between them. put vidar on the left, lokius to the right (inductors inside the Lokius sit near the center & right side of the chassis)
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 6:45 PM Post #137,487 of 151,186
... what can I do to keep the devices safe? ...
The SurgeX line is supposed to be minimally invasive in this respect without costing a fortune. (it comes under a variety of brands).

Otherwise, the only time I thought I heard a difference was with a Shunyata. It made the amps sound better and the pre-amp worse :shrug: Thankfully I didn't have to run everything off it.
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 6:46 PM Post #137,488 of 151,186
That's being very polite. :laughing: Especially the contractor-grade outlets where the Romex is stripped and pushed straight into a hole in the back to be gripped by some flimsy piece of bent metal. Those things suck with a capital S. Got noise in your system? Start there. :laughing:

Fess-up time: I did buy one of those fancy Furutech outlets a while back ($100 at the time) and actually tried to do a comparison. Now trying to do an A/B comparison with a wall outlet is fraught with problems, the foremost being our fallible short-term sonic memory. So lacking the means to be even remotely scientific about it, the first thing I did was replace the crap contractor grade outlet with a good Leviton (more on that below). At least level the playing field to the extent possible. Then I listened for a week -- a couple hours a night to the same 5 songs multiple times. Then I put the Furutech in and listened to the same 5 songs every night for another week. And finally, I put the Leviton back in and listened for a few nights. I really expected to hear a difference, so my preconceived notions were in favor of the Furutech. Well.....I can't honestly say I heard any difference. At least not a recognizable difference that would justify a $5 outlet versus a $100 one. As with their plugs, the Furutech was a work of art from the standpoint of manufacturing quality. No argument there, and impeccable quality impresses me. But sonically? I just couldn't hear any meaningful difference....even though I wanted to. Just being honest about it. That's just my experience and my opinion, of course. Someone else's mileage and opinion may be very different.

Back to the Levitons -- I really like the outlets linked below. Easy to install, as you can still just strip the end off the Romex and stick it in a hole in the back rather than having to wire-wrap it around the side screw(s). The difference is that the side screws on this operate an internal clamp, so rather than some flimsy piece of metal gripping the wire internally, the screw clamps a plate onto the wire. Very solid and tight connection, way more surface area involved between the outlet's inner contacts and the wire, and far easier than having to wire-wrap around the screw. And Leviton is just one brand that has this type configuration. I'm sure Pass and Seymour and others have similar offerings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134AW5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Edit: For people like @Ripper2860 that would probably burn their house down :slight_smile:, if you are not knowledgeable or comfortable messing with the electrical outlets in your abode, PLEASE DON'T! A qualified electrician won't charge all that much if this is something you really want to do and are not comfortable doing it yourself.
branch wiring for outlets are only as good as the wiring that starts at the main panel. in older homes with exterior electric meters that don't have a main breaker/bypass/disconnect the neutrals and ground conductors were generally combined and terminated on the same bar...noisy/dirty ground. on modern homes with with exterior electric meters that have main breaker/bypass/disconnect the neutrals and grounds are required to be separated at the main panel but still combine/bond at the exterior electrical meter. that is done to force an overcurrent situation to the path of least resistance...if grounds are combined all over the place it makes it harder for a circuit breaker to trip and in my opinion also gives electronic noise a place to live...just sayin'
 
Jan 25, 2024 at 6:59 PM Post #137,490 of 151,186

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