[dstrimbu]

Is it possible to power the LS50 Meta with a single Gjallarhorn for near-filed desktop or would a dual mono config work better, or is that asking too much of such a small amp? KEF states the speaker's ohm rating is 8 but that doesn't track when looking at the graph. It looks more like 4 ohms.

Having used a pair of LS50 (non-Metas) in near-field for several years, driving them with a pair of monoblock Aegirs... I would say that more power is better, even in near-field. Two G-horn mono-blocks would work well, I think.

 

[AstronomerXI]

I also agree w @earnmyturns that a cheap ddc might not be worth it. If memory serves, I did hear some changes with my modi multibit 1 when using a jitterbug, so if you're unhappy with Gen 2 USB you could try it. Pretty affordable little device, but memory fades and some people seem to think they're snake oil.

Otherwise I think I may have an Eitr stashed away somewhere if you're interested. I used it when I had a gen5 USB gumby and actually preferred it. Won't price gouge you.

Thanks! I'll file that away until I get a chance in about 4 weeks from now when I should have it set up.

 

[JooLoo]

Deleted*

 

[JooLoo]

Urds shipping now. Also shipping soon:

Is mjolnir 3 still considered a limited run?

 

[JooLoo]

Wow that’s some great pile of Schiit!

I feel bad for my MIB since it’s tucked away from my cramped coffee table

how is the saga s Pre'ing into the forge with susvara? i heard ampsandsound stuff likes a hot input

 

[dstrimbu]

Anyone with experience with both the yggy A1 vs A2 chip? What’s the main difference in sound? Also, how do the single ended rca outputs of the analog summing stage vs the differential stages of the LIM/MIB compare? Thanks!

Really considering that GS2 as I play with more dacs, nothing else I’ve tried really compares to my 2/64.

I can compare Yggy OG A2 to Yggy+ MiB, as I own both - but since both DACs sound different (whilst so similar... timing, timing, timing!), I can make this comment regarding their balanced analog outputs...

They are both dead silent, crystal clear and vibrant when playing music. With either Yggy connected balanced to my line preamp, with no digital input, you can put your ear up to the midrange driver (with the line preamp set to 0db) and only hear the very faintest whisper of noise.

I know that you probably wanted more, but... the A2 board should sound better, right? I mean, it uses fully discrete, DC-coupled Class A FET buffers for balanced, and Class A FET summers for SE. And MiB is using the LME49724 differential op amps...

They sound identical to me, save for the differences in presentation of the DAC stages. In fact, MiB might actually be (perceptibly) quieter?

"You cannot go wrong with any Yggdrasil DAC." -Me

Your unabashed Schiit fanboi,

-D

 

[MindBreak]

Is mjolnir 3 still considered a limited run?

As far as I know it is still a limited run. I am still waiting on mine to ship from the second batch.

 

[dstrimbu]

Sigh... I recall when I was much, much younger my dongle had more than enough juice for just about anything.

Whether the scale measured high resistance or low resistance, my dongle was more than eager to deliver.

Many moons have now waned and waxed since I came to settle on a particularly attractive set of cans to mate my dongle to.

Anyways...that's how I ended up with some HD6xx.

The Drops sound fantastic. What a hi-fi bargain! They do require some break-in, but then I'm comparing them to a 15-year old pair of Senn HD600s.

 

[Ableza]

IN MY OPINION, YMMV, and all other audio-related disclaimers: When it comes to DDC or any other additional processing device, always try what you have first and see how it sounds. Only add what you find out you NEED in order to use what you HAVE, not add because some dip-wit on the Interwebs called it the greatest thing since sliced cheese or because you heard somewhere it will make the system sound better. Always go for necessity first. And don't be afraid of adapters. If you need to adapt your 1/4" headphone jack to 1/8" for convenience, then do it. If you need to use selector switches or Y-cables, then make sure you know how to use them and do it. Don't be afraid that some nobody self-proclaimed measurement expert said it will destroy your system "sparkle and weight" or add 0.0001% THD. Nonsense.

That is all.

 

[dstrimbu]

• Coax S/PDIF has been measured to have lower jitter than optical, at least for the cheap optical parts that are used in lower-end digital audio components.

I can confirm that just about any choice (AES, USB, Coax/BNC) is better than optical w/r/t jitter. You can totally make it worse by using a cheap fiber interconnect, too. I think that Mike used the "a$$" word regarding optical connections, in general, at least once or twice. I am frustrated that my LG OLED only offers optical out for audio (but that's the norm for TVs); might have to invest in a HDMI audio extractor next year... or just stop watching TV, because there is generally nothing on. <g>

 

[Jason Stoddard]

Thanks for the multiple suggestions, I appreciate your insights. I’m lazy so I’d prefer Schiit offer it, or maybe I can get the size of the knob and see if there are any metal ones in the market already and get it anodized black. I know of a few good anodizer folks from my custom keyboard hobby.

The search begins, I suppose!

Hel actually uses what is called a "shell knob," as in, it's a shell of stamped aluminum over an injection-molded plastic piece. We've been considering doing an "insert knob" for it--that is, a milled hunk of aluminum with a small plastic insert for fitting on the potentiometer shaft. Not sure if we'll do it, because the cost is quite a bit higher.

Fun fact: a Ragnarok 2 knob fits perfectly. The catch is that the volume indication will be offset from the correct indication.

Is mjolnir 3 still considered a limited run?

We're also debating this. The second run is pretty much sold out in advance of our shipping any. How does everyone feel about continuing this one, even though I said it was limited? Is that a cheat? Or just a logical response to a popular product?

 

[dstrimbu]

MJ3 should live on!

p.s. - that's the logical response to a popular product, IMHO, and in no way is it cheating. Back to the Thunderdome!

 

[Ableza]

We're also debating this. The second run is pretty much sold out in advance of our shipping any. How does everyone feel about continuing this one, even though I said it was limited? Is that a cheat? Or just a logical response to a popular product?

When you have a popular product and can afford to keep making them, and there is demand for more... then make more.

 

[MindBreak]

Mjolnir 3 should stay in production as long as it remains profitable to do so. Also a companion DAC (Gungnir) would be welcome.

 

[NoBodyNoWhere]

We're also debating this. The second run is pretty much sold out in advance of our shipping any. How does everyone feel about continuing this one, even though I said it was limited? Is that a cheat? Or just a logical response to a popular product?

Mjolnir 3 is a great amp. The world is made a better place where there are more good things in it rather than less. I think, for the good of humanity, it would be good to keep Mjolnir 3 going as long as people want it.