ArmchairPhilosopher
Headphoneus Supremus
Ai, des kansch aber laut sagen!
[You can say that again!]
One of the many, MANY reasons why I am an honest-to-god 'Murican nowadays. ;p
Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
- Thread starter Jason Stoddard
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- schiit audio schiit-audio
[You can say that again!]
One of the many, MANY reasons why I am an honest-to-god 'Murican nowadays. ;p
ArmchairPhilosopher
Headphoneus Supremus
Good point.A real 'Murcan' would have dropped the extra vowel by now.
JC
In my defense: My naturalization was only five or so years ago, I guess I still have some ways left to go in my assimilation process.
wout31
500+ Head-Fier
Sure it is a generalisation, as most of the time to make a point.Sorry, that just seems like a gross generalization to me. I've seen the internals of a recent KEF LS50s, a B&W Nautilus 802 and a Paradigm Reference 100. I saw nothing that would lead me to believe that any of those manufacturers took any shortcuts. And no bad solder joints, either.
Internal wiring is most likely thin awg 18-20 plain average wire and not fancy 6N OFC awg 12-14.
So piss poor in relation to the fancy costly audiophile speaker cabling at $$$$ per meter.
If you read all audio specs so literally it is a fearful world out there.
I have my NS-1000M’s sitting on isopucks, my Stealth 8 sitting on the large stands, isopuck minis under my Freya, Freya+, endpoint and soon Tyr will get the isopucks.
I’d have thrown them under my DAC too if there was space.
I wanted the oreas for my amps but they are substantially higher priced than the isopucks.
Did you do your ceiling too? That made a big difference in mine.
dstrimbu
500+ Head-Fier
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That was near-perfect, @AnotherBrick - keep up the good work and welcome.Not being a seafood lover, I don't have access to bass traps, but I've tried mouse traps in the corners. Didn't notice any improvement in the sound.
(Sorry - if I'm too new for such remarks, I'll keep quiet.)
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
The tubes are shipped in a different box.
ArmchairPhilosopher
Headphoneus Supremus
Wait, Tyr comes with tubes now? ;pThe tubes are shipped in a different box.
I thought Folkvangr was the one that'll come with 5 lbs worth of tubes…
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Yeah, and worse, you didn't even tell us what cables that piano was using. Tease.All those double entendres because I posted a photo of a piano… I'm sorry, I guess?
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
There's a label on the Tyr tube box with 'Nyah Nyah Nyah' printed on it.Wait, Tyr comes with tubes now? ;p
I thought Folkvangr was the one that'll come with 5 lbs worth of tubes…
ArmchairPhilosopher
Headphoneus Supremus
As you can see in the photo, it's actually wireless; not unlike much of Schiit's gear in their product pics, which also magically works without any wires.Yeah, and worse, you didn't even tell us what cables that piano was using. Tease.
(I'm still trying to figure out how they do that, by the way. I just can't get this wireless Schiit to work on my end, no matter what I try. So weird.)
It even came with a pianist!
(Not pictured, obviously. You'll just have to trust me on that one.)
For the 0.2% of you who are interested: It was a concert by Tiffany Poon at the Herbst Theatre [sic; obnoxiously snotty spelling as intended by the venue's owners] in San Francisco. She's nothing short of amazing. Tiffany, I mean. The theatre was just ok.
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FLTWS
Headphoneus Supremus
On room tuning.
You don't need to turn your room into an anechoic chamber. It's about first reflections. With time patience and an assistant it's easy to find those points. On each wall, ceiling, and floor there will be one point for each tweeter. Sit in your primo listening position, have some body run a mirror along the walls, ceiling (a little tricky but can be done with a rube goldberg'd mirror on a long handle at 90 degrees), and the floor. When you see each tweeter centered on the mirror from your listening position on the walls and ceiling those will be the point of first reflection in a typical room and where I would place some absorbent acoustic treatment. If the floor is bare wood those points could go with a throw rug. Depending on how close to the rear wall the speakers sit you may want something on the wall behind them. I went with something like this between the speakers on my rear wall, seemed to enhance the centerfill of the image. Something like this directly behind your listening position might be nice too.
Dipoles are a bit trickier because of the rear wave, but are usually out from the wall anyway so that rear wave will take a longer route around and treatment may or may not be wanted. With box speakers unless there is tweeter on the back of the box (and I'm pretty sure my Mirage M1's in the distant past had one plus a midrange) I wouldn't worry about any reflections as the route those waves take shouldn't interfere with the front waves.
Bass traps helped me with issues that can develop at corners when wave cancellations and wave reinforcements (eigentones) making the sound thin or thick or lead to dead spots depending on where you sit in a room.
That's the way I set up various speakers I owned over the years when I had a home with a dedicated listening room. I found getting those first reflections under control makes for sharper imaging and better depth of the sound field. Especially in smaller rooms where the reflected 1st waves can cause a blur with the direct wave from the tweeters as the two signals arrive very close together time wise at your ears.
There is also a rule of thirds which says you divide the width of the room by 3 and that's typically the best place to position the speakers. Avoid placement numbers divisible by 2 if possible.
That's the sum total of my experience in room tuning.
You don't need to turn your room into an anechoic chamber. It's about first reflections. With time patience and an assistant it's easy to find those points. On each wall, ceiling, and floor there will be one point for each tweeter. Sit in your primo listening position, have some body run a mirror along the walls, ceiling (a little tricky but can be done with a rube goldberg'd mirror on a long handle at 90 degrees), and the floor. When you see each tweeter centered on the mirror from your listening position on the walls and ceiling those will be the point of first reflection in a typical room and where I would place some absorbent acoustic treatment. If the floor is bare wood those points could go with a throw rug. Depending on how close to the rear wall the speakers sit you may want something on the wall behind them. I went with something like this between the speakers on my rear wall, seemed to enhance the centerfill of the image. Something like this directly behind your listening position might be nice too.
Dipoles are a bit trickier because of the rear wave, but are usually out from the wall anyway so that rear wave will take a longer route around and treatment may or may not be wanted. With box speakers unless there is tweeter on the back of the box (and I'm pretty sure my Mirage M1's in the distant past had one plus a midrange) I wouldn't worry about any reflections as the route those waves take shouldn't interfere with the front waves.
Bass traps helped me with issues that can develop at corners when wave cancellations and wave reinforcements (eigentones) making the sound thin or thick or lead to dead spots depending on where you sit in a room.
That's the way I set up various speakers I owned over the years when I had a home with a dedicated listening room. I found getting those first reflections under control makes for sharper imaging and better depth of the sound field. Especially in smaller rooms where the reflected 1st waves can cause a blur with the direct wave from the tweeters as the two signals arrive very close together time wise at your ears.
There is also a rule of thirds which says you divide the width of the room by 3 and that's typically the best place to position the speakers. Avoid placement numbers divisible by 2 if possible.
That's the sum total of my experience in room tuning.
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Paladin79
Previously MOT: Cables For Less
Many can learn from your wisdom.On room tuning.
You don't need to turn your room into an anechoic chamber. It's about first reflections. With time patience and an assistant it's easy to find those points. On each wall, ceiling, and floor there will be one point for each tweeter. Sit in your primo listening position, have some body run a mirror along the walls, ceiling (a little tricky but can be done with a rube goldberg'd mirror on a long handle at 90 degrees), and the floor. When you see each tweeter centered on the mirror from your listening position on the walls and ceiling those will be the point of first reflection in a typical room and where I would place some absorbent acoustic treatment. If the floor is bare wood those points could go with a throw rug. Depending on how close to the rear wall the speakers sit you may want something on the wall behind them. I went with something like this between the speakers on my rear wall, seemed to enhance the centerfill of the image.
Dipoles are a bit trickier because of the rear wave, but are usually out from the wall anyway so that rear wave will take a longer route around and treatment may or may not be wanted.
Bass traps helped me with issues that can develop at corners when wave cancellations and wave reinforcements (eigentones) making the sound thin or thick or lead to dead spots depending on where you sit in a room.
That's the way I set up various speakers I owned over the years when I had a home with a dedicated listening room. I found getting those first reflections under control makes for sharper imaging and better depth of the sound field. Especially in smaller rooms where the reflected 1st waves can cause a blur with the direct wave from the tweeters as the two signals arrive very close together time wise at your ears.
There is also a rule of thirds which says you divide the width of the room by 3 and that's typically the best place to position the speakers. Avoid placement numbers divisible by 2 if possible.
That's the sum total of my experience in room tuning.
corndog71
500+ Head-Fier
I’ve tried the Cardas method, thirds, quarters, etc. But if you want your speakers to disappear, LOTS has been the most effective for me. The only downside is that it usually requires you to pull the speakers further away from the walls than some might like.
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