[johnjen]

I too am having to deal with high VAC as I refine my BIG iiiiirrrrrrnnnnn amp.

Tubes are more susceptible to under (and in my case) over voltage as the bias shifts and various xfmrs can saturate, which tends to kill dynamics and that magic tube sound.
And because the primary xfmr steps up the voltage, this means a 5Vac up shift in line voltage can result in a 15Vac shift (or more) in the output of the secondary.

And in this case we're trying NOT to use SS regulators (instead we're using old skewl design approaches) to deal with the changing input line voltage swings.
I have been monitoring my line voltage and it runs from 121 to 125Vac which is rather high considering most tube electronics mains xfrms are rated at 115Vac.
Which means at times we're seeing a +10v higher input voltage, which boosts the B+ output by ≈ 30Vac.

So I have a call into City Light to see if they can lower my line voltage closer to the range of 115-117Vac, which is usually just using a different tap on the step down xfmr on the pole outside.

The saga continues.

JJ

 

[FLTWS]

Be interesting to hear Jason chime in on this varying voltage scenario.

I've only noticed issues when the the voltage drops below 110 with my home theater. Maybe a touch in the sound, maybe not. But definitely with my plasma TV, colors wash out.

I use these on my home theater (I don't think they are available anymore);

I rarely get over voltage (maybe 125 and of very short duration) in my area. I bought 2 each of these back around 2007 (one for H/T the other on flight sim computers) for air conditioning season which for me runs April 1st to November 1st each year and some years even longer (I'm always hot, LOL!). I've had voltages drop to 105/104 during hot humid weather, which has been months on end this summer. Solved my Home Theater picture issues and those with the big screen TV monitors I used on my simulators, but never noticed a chronic issue with my HP rig probably as HVAC condenser and blower noise, (which is the reason I'm putting together a 2nd HP rig in my 2nd floor BR), would cover up any subtle sound issues introduced by the low voltage.I only put that HP rig (my first) together starting Jan 2016. Although at 105 and below is there a potential for any damage to the gear?

Anyway, interesting consideration, could even be considered "on topic"!

 

[riffrafff]

Although at 105 and below is there a potential for any damage to the gear?

Shouldn't be. It's common practice to bring new/repaired equipment on a variac. You can see Schiit's technician do it on the latest video (schiitferbrainz youtube channel) on the Mjolnir build.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

umm Modi 3 is Schiit's first product without a special power supply... so that one.

Jason said it has 10x the noise of Apple's wall wart's and I want to buy a better one for my Modi 3.

If you think it might make a difference, I've got more Apple USB "Cubes" than I could possibly need (yes I own a ton of Apple Products). I'll send you a few if you want. Just PM me.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

Obviously...Electronics cannot work without electricity.
Like I said...you must have very discerning ears....good on you!

Never had the issue you're talking about; maybe I was just lucky that the houses I've lived in have had very stable voltages

PS - did you ever consider a UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation?

PPS - not really a fan of 'critical listening' any more; found I was 'listening' to the gear and not the music...

Hmm I never considered if this might be a problem, I have added potential for noise on my power due to having 13Kwatts of Solar on the roof and 2 DC to AC inverters, that I've never noticed affecting my audio. I have 2 UPSs with AVR unopened in my basement (NOS hah). I already have a whole house surge suppressor ($100) and lots of ISObars for A/V gear. UPS's make some directly audible noise themselves (acoustic). I might try those UPSs with my bedside and basement rigs. I also have a 50lb transformer from the Stan (120 to 120, 120 to 240, 240 to 120, 240 to 240) if my memory is correct. My dad (Master Electrician) was just telling me about a transformer he had decades ago that was something like .5m per side, for clean power @ 3000V or so. Also about two fancy fly-wheel power regulator/cleaner/decoupler/decrapifiers that a major manufacturing company had him bid for the installation of on their automated manufacturing line that had some major components fry due to voltage fluctuation. They ended up finding a cheaper solution instead as it was going to be in the millions to purchase and install.

 

[artur9]

Schiit Automotive Audio?! Is that possible? Not my cup of tea, but....

New meaning for the term Schiit Box I guess.

 

[dieslemat]

New meaning for the term Schiit Box I guess.

Auto Schiit

 

[Ableza]

Why would you want to lower your line voltage? To draw more current?? In the US utilities have a standard target of 114-126 with 120 being nominal standard mains in the USA. I consider it a win when my incoming voltage is 122... All stereo power supplies will handle this variation... so I don't understand.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

Why would you want to lower you line voltage? To draw more current?? In the US utilities have a standard target of 114-126 with 120 being nominal standard mains in the USA. I consider it a win when my incoming voltage is 122... All stereo power supplies will handle this variation... so I don't understand.

I haven't measured my line voltages besides while working on the Crack. I seem to remember being at about 115.2 volts at the IEC inlet. So in my case I would be boosting the voltage via a UPS.

 

[FrivolsListener]

I haven't measured my line voltages besides while working on the Crack. I seem to remember being at about 115.2 volts at the IEC inlet. So in my case I would be boosting the voltage via a UPS.

My voltage wanders all over the place from 119 to 127. The Schiit works fine with it.

My inverter for the solar power stuff will pick up non-essential loads if line voltage drops below 90 volts. The inverter itself maintains a rock solid 117 vac with a perfect sine wave.

 

[Xcalibur255]

I've been listening to my Rag non-stop since my Yggy B unit arrived a month ago. The more I listen the more I like it and respect what this SS design accomplishes. The key for me is it's got to be fully heated up to sound it's best. I don't leave it on 24 / 7 /365 but on days I know or suspect I'll be listening, I turn it on while sipping my first cup-a Joe in the early morning. It just sounds better as the day wears on. I shut it down at the end of my listening day.

The only thing I would ask for is more steps to fine tune the volume better. Even the type of volume control used in my other Schiit would be okay with me if it sounded at least the same.

People generally make a big deal about the warm-up time on tube gear, but SS mostly gets a pass on this for some reason. The interesting part for me is, in my experience so far, high end SS gear is actually more fussy about warm-up than high end tube gear is.

The SS monoblocks in my TV speaker setup sound very different if they've been for a few days vs. recently turned on. It's not subtle at all, to the point where I recently unplugged the 12V triggers from them and made the decision to just leave them on.

 

[judson_w]

I decided this morning to turn my mimby on before going to work. When I get home this evening, I will give it a listen. I doubt it will supplant my vinyl listening habits, but it may result in it getting some more play time.

 

[Ableza]

I haven't measured my line voltages besides while working on the Crack. I seem to remember being at about 115.2 volts at the IEC inlet. So in my case I would be boosting the voltage via a UPS.

Why? Unless you are testing something that requires a specific voltage value to be valid, if it's between 112-125 you are optimal. 115 is perfectly acceptable.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

Why? Unless you are testing something that requires a specific voltage value to be valid, if it's between 112-125 you are optimal. 115 is perfectly acceptable.

Some of the others said that they were experiencing audible degradation with low voltages or high voltages. I can try it out and see I guess. It's not like I'm going to throw $ at the problem. I can't afford a Yggy, Gumby, or Rok so probably I won't notice a difference with my Mimby and Jot.

 

[Ableza]

Some of the others said that they were experiencing audible degradation with low voltages or high voltages. I can try it out and see I guess. It's not like I'm going to throw $ at the problem. I can't afford a Yggy, Gumby, or Rok so probably I won't notice a difference with my Mimby and Jot.

Gotcha. Well, experiments can be fun. If you own a variac with sufficient ampacity go for it and enjoy yourself. But a power supply will draw whatever current it needs at whatever line voltage might be available to meet system demands, and unless the line voltage is too high or too low - outside its operating parameters, like say 85 volts or 135 volts or whatever the system is rated for - it will work and be fine. Might there be subtle, incremental differences between 115 and 120 V mains power that the golden-eared audiophile might be able to detect? Maybe. Maybe not. Most likely not.

It depends on the power supply design. ​