[firedog]

Debating too use Freya as a pre -amp between a custom built Odyssey Kismet amp.( still being built) as a tube buffer  or use the MJR2 which is also a headphone amp. I did have Lyr 2 during Xmas time but ended up keeping a Audeze Deckard love the sound of Deckard  with LCD 2 F. . The Freya or the Mjr 2 will go in the main system which has magi 1.7i a Parasound Halo Integrated  any thoughts on this would be appreciated 

FYI-
I have a Kismet amp and am using a Freya as preamp. Sounds great. If you use the tube section of the Freya, it isn't functioning as a tube buffer, but as a pre with gain.

 

[winders]

And my final pair for a while:
 

 

[belgiangenius]

 

 
After another month of listening I am revising my rankings and comments a bit, ranked:
 
CLASS A
1.  Sylvania 6SN7W black base - simply awesome, all around
2.  Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates - stunning bass, clear highs - simply awesome, almost tied with #1, but with slightly more visceral bass
3.  RCA VT-231 grey glass - sweet, sweet midrange, slightly rolled off highs, but DAMN - nice for the right kind of music that emphasizes piano and vocals
4.  Sylvania VT-231 - very, very neutral, a bit lacking in bass, good in buffer position
 
CLASS B
4.  CBS 5692 / RCA 5692 - these tubes sound the same to me and, based on the hype, are a big disappointment.  They do sound good but are flat, neutral, lacking bass, and just disappointing compared to #1 + #2. 
5.  GE 6SN7GT side getter - 1950s - good overall, not detail monsters, but good
6.  Sylvania 6SN7GT chrome dome top getter - super yawn, boring, but better than #7 and #8
 
CLASS C
7.  New production Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB - these were a disappointment to me, fairly balanced but kind of veiled and syrupy - these suck compared to everything above
8.  Stock Russian tubes that came with Freya - these suck hard compared to everything above
 
Still have not heard a new production tube that did not suck balls.   Is it really that hard to manufacture a tube for audiophiles?
 
Got some Raytheon VT-231 flat plates on the way for my next evaluation.

 

[frankraindog]

Just a question about the socket savers. What's the best way to insert them into Freya? Open the Unit? The holes cut into Freya so insert the tubes are just big enough to insert the socket server straight from the top, there is not much space left at the sides.

 

[jseymour]

Do not open the unit.  The socket savers go straight in with no problem.  If you are going to tube roll, then buy extra socket savers for the tubes you are going to swap.  Along with the socket savers in my Freya, the tubes I swap if they are 6SN7 have socket savers on them or the other types have adapters.  That way I only touch the adapter/converter when I swap them.

 

[eschell27]

   
After another month of listening I am revising my rankings and comments a bit, ranked:
 
CLASS A
1.  Sylvania 6SN7W black base - simply awesome, all around
2.  Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates - stunning bass, clear highs - simply awesome, almost tied with #1, but with slightly more visceral bass
3.  RCA VT-231 grey glass - sweet, sweet midrange, slightly rolled off highs, but DAMN - nice for the right kind of music that emphasizes piano and vocals
4.  Sylvania VT-231 - very, very neutral, a bit lacking in bass, good in buffer position
 
CLASS B
4.  CBS 5692 / RCA 5692 - these tubes sound the same to me and, based on the hype, are a big disappointment.  They do sound good but are flat, neutral, lacking bass, and just disappointing compared to #1 + #2. 
5.  GE 6SN7GT side getter - 1950s - good overall, not detail monsters, but good
6.  Sylvania 6SN7GT chrome dome top getter - super yawn, boring, but better than #7 and #8
 
CLASS C
7.  New production Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB - these were a disappointment to me, fairly balanced but kind of veiled and syrupy - these suck compared to everything above
8.  Stock Russian tubes that came with Freya - these suck hard compared to everything above
 
Still have not heard a new production tube that did not suck balls.   Is it really that hard to manufacture a tube for audiophiles?
 
Got some Raytheon VT-231 flat plates on the way for my next evaluation.

 
Let me know if you are interested in selling any of the 5692's... i want to give them a try 

 

[brad1138]

After another month of listening I am revising my rankings and comments a bit, ranked:

CLASS A
1. Sylvania 6SN7W black base - simply awesome, all around
2. Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates - stunning bass, clear highs - simply awesome, almost tied with #1, but with slightly more visceral bass
3. RCA VT-231 grey glass - sweet, sweet midrange, slightly rolled off highs, but DAMN - nice for the right kind of music that emphasizes piano and vocals
4. Sylvania VT-231 - very, very neutral, a bit lacking in bass, good in buffer position

CLASS B
4. CBS 5692 / RCA 5692 - these tubes sound the same to me and, based on the hype, are a big disappointment.  They do sound good but are flat, neutral, lacking bass, and just disappointing compared to #1 + #2.
5. GE 6SN7GT side getter - 1950s - good overall, not detail monsters, but good
6. Sylvania 6SN7GT chrome dome top getter - super yawn, boring, but better than #7 and #8

CLASS C
7. New production Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB - these were a disappointment to me, fairly balanced but kind of veiled and syrupy - these suck compared to everything above
8. Stock Russian tubes that came with Freya - these suck hard compared to everything above

Still have not heard a new production tube that did not suck balls.   Is it really that hard to manufacture a tube for audiophiles?

Got some Raytheon VT-231 flat plates on the way for my next evaluation.

I am still a noob when it comes to tubes. I purchased a set of 4 Tung-Sol NP, for my Freya. And although I think they sound nice (after warming up anyway), I am interested in trying something from "Class A" above.

I assume you are running all 4, but I have read that 1 of the tubes (per side) makes a big difference and the other doesn't. Would trying 2 of say the "Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates" in the "important position" be a good choice, or do I really need all 4?

Also, are there "Kenrad VT-231" that aren't "staggered plates"? How do I know if the seller isn't specific or doesn't know?

Thanks,
Brad

EDIT: I just pulled the trigger on 2 "Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates" from Ebay, for what I think is a good price, not much more than I paid each for my Tung Sols. The seller had over 1000 feedback @ 100% positive, and they said they were "staggered plates". Hopefully that was a good decision. Now, do I need to get 2 more or not...?

 

[belgiangenius]

 

After another month of listening I am revising my rankings and comments a bit, ranked:

CLASS A
1. Sylvania 6SN7W black base - simply awesome, all around
2. Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates - stunning bass, clear highs - simply awesome, almost tied with #1, but with slightly more visceral bass
3. RCA VT-231 grey glass - sweet, sweet midrange, slightly rolled off highs, but DAMN - nice for the right kind of music that emphasizes piano and vocals
4. Sylvania VT-231 - very, very neutral, a bit lacking in bass, good in buffer position

CLASS B
4. CBS 5692 / RCA 5692 - these tubes sound the same to me and, based on the hype, are a big disappointment.  They do sound good but are flat, neutral, lacking bass, and just disappointing compared to #1 + #2.
5. GE 6SN7GT side getter - 1950s - good overall, not detail monsters, but good
6. Sylvania 6SN7GT chrome dome top getter - super yawn, boring, but better than #7 and #8

CLASS C
7. New production Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB - these were a disappointment to me, fairly balanced but kind of veiled and syrupy - these suck compared to everything above
8. Stock Russian tubes that came with Freya - these suck hard compared to everything above

Still have not heard a new production tube that did not suck balls.   Is it really that hard to manufacture a tube for audiophiles?

Got some Raytheon VT-231 flat plates on the way for my next evaluation.

I am still a noob when it comes to tubes. I purchased a set of 4 Tung-Sol NP, for my Freya. And although I think they sound nice (after warming up anyway), I am interested in trying something from "Class A" above.

I assume you are running all 4, but I have read that 1 of the tubes (per side) makes a big difference and the other doesn't. Would trying 2 of say the "Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates" in the "important position" be a good choice, or do I really need all 4?

Also, are there "Kenrad VT-231" that aren't "staggered plates"? How do I know if the seller isn't specific or doesn't know?

Thanks,
Brad

EDIT: I just pulled the trigger on 2 "Kenrad VT-231 staggered plates" from Ebay, for what I think is a good price, not much more than I paid each for my Tung Sols. The seller had over 1000 feedback @ 100% positive, and they said they were "staggered plates". Hopefully that was a good decision. Now, do I need to get 2 more or not...?

 
No, you do not need Quads.  Just take a neutral pair of tubes that aren't your favorites and use them in the buffer position.
 
I have my Sylvania VT-231 in the buffer position.  Great tubes, but light on bass for my taste.  They seem to work fabulously in the buffer stage, though.
 
When you get the Kenrads, listen to your system with the Tung-sol for a bit.  Then, swap the gain stage tubes for your KenRads and enjoy the much higher level of detail and bass. 

 

[brad1138]

   
No, you do not need Quads.  Just take a neutral pair of tubes that aren't your favorites and use them in the buffer position.
 
I have my Sylvania VT-231 in the buffer position.  Great tubes, but light on bass for my taste.  They seem to work fabulously in the buffer stage, though.
 
When you get the Kenrads, listen to your system with the Tung-sol for a bit.  Then, swap the gain stage tubes for your KenRads and enjoy the much higher level of detail and bass. 

 
Thanks,
 
Now I think I read the front 2 are the left channel and the rear 2 are the right. Which side is gain/buffer?

 

[cskippy]

That's correct.  Right side is gain, left is buffer. 

 

[winders]

What is a reasonable price these days for a matched pair of real Sylvania 6SN7GT "Bad Boy" tubes?

 

[brad1138]

  What is a reasonable price these days for a matched pair of real Sylvania 6SN7GT "Bad Boy" tubes?

 
FWIW, I picked up a "MATCHING PAIR OF EXCELLENT TESTING KEN RAD VT-231/6SN7GT Test 2400/2500 & 2500/2600 where 1640 is min good on Hickok 539C tester" for $75 shipped. And they are supposed to be just about as good, according to belgiangenius. They are the "staggered plate". 

 

[winders]

Are the good Kenrad VT-231 tubes the ones with smoked glass? Or does it matter as long as they have staggered plates with copper rods?

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

  What is a reasonable price these days for a matched pair of real Sylvania 6SN7GT "Bad Boy" tubes?

 

   
FWIW, I picked up a "MATCHING PAIR OF EXCELLENT TESTING KEN RAD VT-231/6SN7GT Test 2400/2500 & 2500/2600 where 1640 is min good on Hickok 539C tester" for $75 shipped. And they are supposed to be just about as good, according to belgiangenius. They are the "staggered plate". 

The non-ebay price, direct buy cost for used sought-after 6sn7 tubes seems to be $75/pr shipped. Now the amount of hours between each set, regardless of what the seller may imply, might be completely different from one another.

 

[winders]

 
The non-ebay price, direct buy cost for used sought-after 6sn7 tubes seems to be $75/pr shipped. Now the amount of hours between each set, regardless of what the seller may imply, might be completely different from one another.

 
Where do I buy these tubes? What tubes are they?