[Xerosnake90]

...this photo is a good presentation for the set of these two units. like it. I'm a fan of the BF2/64. gave the Lyr+ a close look, ultimate took the MJ3, but Lyr still on the list.

Yea uniformity and size was a big deal else I might've gone Mjolnir and Gungnir myself but it'd take up the whole space. One day when I get a hifi system going I'll get the big stuff

 

[Xerosnake90]

4 days in and I swear this thing opened up some more. It's like the first layer of images and the second farther back stuff has separated even more. While the center stage stuff is still exactly where it was there's now a whole world of sounds around me that're on a plane of their own and don't mix in with that first layer anymore. All I know is I've NEVER heard music like this before. I think the Lyr+ and Bifrost 2/64 is a firm endgame for the time being, I even bought some better cables to complete everything. Got my Arya V2 on the way I'm not sure I can resist more headphones but for the time being I think I can just do what this hobby is about and truly enjoy the music

 

[myoda]

Moved house and began having major issue with Bifrost clicking after a few minutes of computer starting up. Music would just stop and only way (I tried all the fixes on the computer side) was to power cycle it.

Was getting super frustrated and then decided to try the USB-C hub I had lying around, and what do you know it keeps a stable connection. Schiit seem to now sell a separate USB interface for A$200+, but I'm guessing this cheap USB hub from Amazon is all I needed. So the problem is definitely my computer USB signal.

 

[myoda]

Ah, and I've had my Bifrost for ~2 years now, runs from USB out of my computer, then to a Schiit Jotunheim pre-amp/headphone amp. Can plug either headphones in using the balanced connection, and it's direct connected to 'dump' amp (Musical Fidelity M1 PWR) so I can control the volume from the Jotunheim.

Speakers are Usher desktop, forget the model but just small enough for desktop/nearfield setup.

 

[GumbyDammit223]

I recently had an issue where the work computer wouldn't recognize the BF I had plugged into it for a couple years. Two of the three computers I tested it on wouldn't recognize it. Ended up having to delete and reinstall/update all of the USB drivers. Stupid computers!

 

[Xerosnake90]

Anyone have the card for the original Bifrost 2 laying around that they don't use? Wouldn't mind having one to change up the flavor if I felt the mood to

 

[Baldeagle58]

Guys, I have a very lack of knowledge when it comes to digital audio so please don’t shoot me in your replies.
I bought an original Bifrost 2 about 4 years ago and have not really used it much to be honest. However I try it as the DAC by connecting it to the digital out on my CD player (Hagel Mohican) and it definitely improved the performance of CDs through my system. The question is should I get the upgrade or just go back to playing my records?
Thanks for any guidance that you can give. My ears are 72 years old if that is an issue.

 

[RayMets1]

I have a Geshelli Labs JNOG2 Socketed with the AK4499 Dac and the 2 Sparkos SS3602 opamps on the XLR.
I was considering selling it and getting the Bifrost 2/64. Does any one here have both and could let me know how they sound when compared.

 

[Quadrangulator]

I'm considering a Bifrost 2 and would be upgrading from a JDS Labs Element III. How significant of an upgrade would a BF2 be from the Element III?

Additionally, does the Bifrost 2 show in Windows as a 2-channel or 5.1/7.1 device?

 

[myoda]

I recently had an issue where the work computer wouldn't recognize the BF I had plugged into it for a couple years. Two of the three computers I tested it on wouldn't recognize it. Ended up having to delete and reinstall/update all of the USB drivers. Stupid computers!

Seems I might have to try this.

Even playing through a USB-C hub it clicks and stops playing, sometimes repowering it doesn't detect the computer signal. Eventually after a few restarts the BF will continue to play without the relay triggering again every 5 minutes.

It's getting frustrating, I love the sound so not interested in swapping it, just want to figure out how to keep it connected.

 

[Dr. Cube]

Guys, I have a very lack of knowledge when it comes to digital audio so please don’t shoot me in your replies.
I bought an original Bifrost 2 about 4 years ago and have not really used it much to be honest. However I try it as the DAC by connecting it to the digital out on my CD player (Hagel Mohican) and it definitely improved the performance of CDs through my system. The question is should I get the upgrade or just go back to playing my records?
Thanks for any guidance that you can give. My ears are 72 years old if that is an issue.

The SPDIF input section, as far as I know, is the same on the new model, and the only thing that's different is the analog (D/A conversion and output) board. So, in your system, the difference would only come down to whatever difference there is from the analog board itself. I have only heard the original Bifrost 2 and not the 2/64, so I can't offer a comparison for you. If you just want to try the non-oversampling mode, then you can upgrade the firmware on yours without installing the new analog board.

 

[tincanear]

Guys, I have a very lack of knowledge when it comes to digital audio so please don’t shoot me in your replies.
I bought an original Bifrost 2 about 4 years ago and have not really used it much to be honest. However I try it as the DAC by connecting it to the digital out on my CD player (Hagel Mohican) and it definitely improved the performance of CDs through my system. The question is should I get the upgrade or just go back to playing my records?
Thanks for any guidance that you can give. My ears are 72 years old if that is an issue.

you can also try leaving the Bifrost 2 powered up continuously for a few days to a week or so then have another listen. Some users report a difference in tonality for multibit DACs left powered on continuously. No need to have digital source active during this time, but you could connect to an internet streaming device if you don't want excess wear on your CD player. Also make sure the cable connecting between CD player S/PDIF digital output and BF2 is 75 ohms type e.g. RG-59 coaxial (a repurposed quality composite video cable (yellow RCA connectors) or one leg of an RGB video cable works well in this application)

+1 about @Dr. Cube recommendation to update the firmware on BF2 (downloadable from Schiit's website...requires micro SD card)

from other user's commentary (haven't heard BF2 & /64 versions myself), the original Bifrost 2 might have a slightly warmer tone than the newer /64 version.

 

[myoda]

So my saga continued until I blew up parts of my computer while upgrading the PSU. Ended up building a whole new PC unexpectedly.

Now, I'm pleased to report, Bifrost stays connected without having to power cycle it many times. Basically you need a good source (Good PSU, Good motherboard, Good case (if using the case USB connectors).

 

[hikaru12]

Browsing around - can anyone let me know if Coax is the preferred input on this DAC? Currently I have optical but I know with timing errors I’d probably missing out some kind of detail despite the noise isolation. Can anyone recommend a good coax cable if that is the better input?

 

[Nick76]

Browsing around - can anyone let me know if Coax is the preferred input on this DAC? Currently I have optical but I know with timing errors I’d probably missing out some kind of detail despite the noise isolation. Can anyone recommend a good coax cable if that is the better input?

I preferred Coaxial Spdif, with Unison as second favorite. Coax added a bit more depth, clarity and smoothness with a blacker background, while Unison was a bit more energetic and brighter with a little bit of glare for me. I never tried optical, but I know its not really the digital input of choice for many people,