Schiit Audio Bifrost 2

[Xerosnake90]

I've only use Unison USB, and for the last week a/c purchase of a DDC, digital coax. It's still very early, but I'm pretty certain I prefer digital coax (tbc, not sure what deserves the most attribution here: the coax input of the BF 2/64, or the DDC). I haven't used optical (on any gear) in ages, and even then, that was for A/V setups.

FWIW, I recommend Bluejeans Cables for the coax cable (and many other types as well). They provide no-nonsense, solid builds.

Which DDC did you end up getting?

 

[feverfive]

Which DDC did you end up getting?

Denafrips Iris 12th

I've pestered Jason about preferring to buy something from Schiit, but they don't seem interested in making such a device (again).

 

[analogbox]

A few weeks ago, I spent a couple of hours switching between different inputs on the Bifrost blindly using different types of music in a quiet room with HD800S and Arya Organic, and I could not tell any discernable difference between them. I know it's not a perfect method, but what I did was I hit the input button multiple times without counting and then switching to the next input thereafter so I have no clue which input I'm listening to. Even if there were any differences, they were probably negligible. Of course, YMMV, but I don't think you can't go wrong with any of the inputs. The optical has the most jitter technically, but it's an age old debate whether you can actually hear it or not. I'm currently using the coax input which is connected to the Denafrips Iris 12th as well. Again, in my setup, the difference wasn't noticeable, but I use it anyway knowing that it's technically the better input.

 

[Xerosnake90]

A few weeks ago, I spent a couple of hours switching between different inputs on the Bifrost blindly using different types of music in a quiet room with HD800S and Arya Organic, and I could not tell any discernable difference between them. I know it's not a perfect method, but what I did was I hit the input button multiple times without counting and then switching to the next input thereafter so I have no clue which input I'm listening to. Even if there were any differences, they were probably negligible. Of course, YMMV, but I don't think you can't go wrong with any of the inputs. The optical has the most jitter technically, but it's an age old debate whether you can hear jitter or not. I'm currently using the coax input which is connected to the Denafrips Iris 12th as well. Again, in my setup, the difference wasn't noticeable, but I use it anyway knowing that it's technically the better input.

Yea I can't see myself grabbing a DDC with the sole idea to improve the sound of my current stack. If it did make a difference it'd be marginal. I've squeezed what I could out of my system with good cables and a dedicated Roon Server. I actually connected directly to my tablet using just Qobuz for a second and was shocked how thin everything sounded compared to my Roon server.

At this point a new Amp, DAC, or headphone will give me the biggest change so I'll save my money for the big jumps instead of trying to squeeze out another percent or two.

 

[myoda]

I think the preferred method is USB. It doesn't have to be a 'audiophile' one either, just something decent quality from you local PC shop. Reason is your computer will then detect the Bifrost, and then programs like Tidal will be able to Passthrough MQA so you bifrost gets the raw signal and also 'Force volume' so your computer doesn't determine the volume, it'd done by your downstream amp (after the bifrost).

 

[myoda]

I think the preferred method is USB. It doesn't have to be a 'audiophile' one either, just something decent quality from you local PC shop. Reason is your computer will then detect the Bifrost, and then programs like Tidal will be able to Passthrough MQA so you bifrost gets the raw signal and also 'Force volume' so your computer doesn't determine the volume, it'd done by your downstream amp (after the bifrost).

This is for a connection to a PC. Not sure about other sources.

 

[Dr. Cube]

Browsing around - can anyone let me know if Coax is the preferred input on this DAC? Currently I have optical but I know with timing errors I’d probably missing out some kind of detail despite the noise isolation. Can anyone recommend a good coax cable if that is the better input?

The USB input is also isolated, using a little ethernet transformer. Maybe it'll sound better to you and maybe not, but the USB isolation is one of my favorite things about it.

 

[Xerosnake90]

I think the preferred method is USB. It doesn't have to be a 'audiophile' one either, just something decent quality from you local PC shop. Reason is your computer will then detect the Bifrost, and then programs like Tidal will be able to Passthrough MQA so you bifrost gets the raw signal and also 'Force volume' so your computer doesn't determine the volume, it'd done by your downstream amp (after the bifrost).

My chain is in my signature. I spent a bit on some "audiophile" cables and they completed the chain beautifully. I've had no issues with USB personally it sounds excellent out of my laptop. Qobuz/Roon runs in exclusive mode like you mention

 

[JungleJim]

I think the preferred method is USB. It doesn't have to be a 'audiophile' one either, just something decent quality from you local PC shop. Reason is your computer will then detect the Bifrost, and then programs like Tidal will be able to Passthrough MQA so you bifrost gets the raw signal and also 'Force volume' so your computer doesn't determine the volume, it'd done by your downstream amp (after the bifrost).

In Windows this is called exclusive mode. The Windows mixer is bypassed thus preventing the resampling that the Windows mixer always does. Windows volume control is also bypassed in Exclusive mode.

Please note that the Bifrost (nor any other Schiit DAC) does not support MQA, only regular PCM up to 24 bits/192kHz.

 

[hikaru12]

I've only use Unison USB, and for the last week a/c purchase of a DDC, digital coax. It's still very early, but I'm pretty certain I prefer digital coax (tbc, not sure what deserves the most attribution here: the coax input of the BF 2/64, or the DDC). I haven't used optical (on any gear) in ages, and even then, that was for A/V setups.

FWIW, I recommend Bluejeans Cables for the coax cable (and many other types as well). They provide no-nonsense, solid builds.

I’ve been using an AudioQuest Cinnamon Coax cable and I can’t help but feel that I should be using something better. I feel like some detail is getting lost with this cable. I haven’t really tried cheaper cables (I just got a benchmark audio BNC to RCA - waiting to form my impressions on that cable).

 

[2ndWedge]

I’ve been using an AudioQuest Cinnamon Coax cable and I can’t help but feel that I should be using something better. I feel like some detail is getting lost with this cable. I haven’t really tried cheaper cables (I just got a benchmark audio BNC to RCA - waiting to form my impressions on that cable).

I have an Audioquest coax cable I used on my Bifrost OG but it fit so tight I was afraid of breaking all 3 inputs of the Bifrost circuit board. Is the tighter they fit the better they sound? I dunno. Read somewhere that the yellow cable off your old VCR connection or the red, green or blue off the old DVD connection make good coax cables but mine are all very long but will give them a try. My Audioquest is now going between a WiiM Pro and Schiit modi that I am preparing for the cottage now that we have internet there.

 

[hikaru12]

I have an Audioquest coax cable I used on my Bifrost OG but it fit so tight I was afraid of breaking all 3 inputs of the Bifrost circuit board. Is the tighter they fit the better they sound? I dunno. Read somewhere that the yellow cable off your old VCR connection or the red, green or blue off the old DVD connection make good coax cables but mine are all very long but will give them a try. My Audioquest is now going between a WiiM Pro and Schiit modi that I am preparing for the cottage now that we have internet there.

I’ve heard the fit is important, yes. This is why some people recommend BNC connectors because it ensures the connection is tight. I’m thinking about renting a coax cable from the Cable Company and seeing if it makes a difference - maybe something like a Diamond Coax.

 

[Hyde00]

Late to the game, but I bought a second hand Bifrost 2 OG. Currently pairing to my Lyr 3.

From time to time it felt like it might've been a bit too thick sounding. I wonder if I should've gone for Biforst 2/64 instead. Though it's only have been powered on for 3 days so far, been leaving it on continuously. But it sounds like it's recommended to wait for 4 days at least before it settle in?

Also am I crazy...... I find I like NOS mode more a bit more, it sounds wider and more 3D.

Otherwise happy to join the club.

 

[Xerosnake90]

Late to the game, but I bought a second hand Bifrost 2 OG. Currently pairing to my Lyr 3.

From time to time it felt like it might've been a bit too thick sounding. I wonder if I should've gone for Biforst 2/64 instead. Though it's only have been powered on for 3 days so far, been leaving it on continuously. But it sounds like it's recommended to wait for 4 days at least before it settle in?

Also am I crazy...... but I find I like NOS mode more, it sounds wider and more 3D.

Otherwise happy to join the club.

Welcome to the club! Most people keep it on at all times and it should be settled in already if you've kept it on for 3 days. Since it's second hand it's likely burned in.

I noticed that thick sound first thing as well when I first got it. I enjoyed it with the Jot 2 but with an actual tube amp it was overkill for my tastes. I have the 2/64 now and it's more neutral, still full but would never call it thick sounding. Give it some time for your brain to get used to the change in sound and worst case scenario you snag the upgrade card and try it out

 

[hikaru12]

Welcome to the club! Most people keep it on at all times and it should be settled in already if you've kept it on for 3 days. Since it's second hand it's likely burned in.

I noticed that thick sound first thing as well when I first got it. I enjoyed it with the Jot 2 but with an actual tube amp it was overkill for my tastes. I have the 2/64 now and it's more neutral, still full but would never call it thick sounding. Give it some time for your brain to get used to the change in sound and worst case scenario you snag the upgrade card and try it out

Bifrost 2 OG is best paired with a more neutral amp to let it shine. I notice this the most with speakers. I prefer a thicker sound otherwise the 2/64 or LiM is the better fit for someone with more neutral, cleaner tastes. This DAC is probably more comparable to the Yggy OG in that it’s a more dynamic fun DAC.