sachu
Headphoneus Supremus
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simply beautiful gatsu...
did you write the picaxe code yourself?...Very cool..
did you write the picaxe code yourself?...Very cool..
Roll Call: Who's building, built, or thinking of building a beta22?
- Thread starter Nebby
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johnwmclean
Aka: capone, bignurse.
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Quote:
Is a headphone/speaker design?
Quote:
Keep em coming
Quote:
Never heard of this, like to hear more about the pros and cons regarding this feature - never seen any on other builds.
| Originally Posted by Gatsu /img/forum/go_quote.gif I figure the way Perth summers get I need it to handle as much heat as it can  |
Is a headphone/speaker design?
Quote:
| Originally Posted by Gatsu /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'll grab a couple of close up shots when I get home tonight. |
Keep em coming
Quote:
| Originally Posted by Gatsu /img/forum/go_quote.gif The board in the middle is the power controller. Its a picaxe microprocessor as well as a 5V PSU (for the amp controller as well). The picaxe senses the supply rails through 4 opto-couplers and if one drops out it flashes an error code on the power switch LED. |
Never heard of this, like to hear more about the pros and cons regarding this feature - never seen any on other builds.
Gatsu
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Primarily headphone, but I like to leave my options open
The is definitely a case of me making something more complicated than it needed to be
I wanted the front panel of the PSU case to just have a single button with the power indicator, however it was to be a dual PSU so I really needed to be able to show what state each PSU was in.
My original idea was to use the LED into an optocoupler and that told the microcontroller the sigma was working.
But! During the build, I messed up. One rail had 40V and the other 0V, but the LED was still lit, ok so that idea wasn't going to work the way I wanted, and it evolved into what it is now. Who says I don't learn from my mistakes
As you guessed yes there are pros and cons to this. The main downside is that you can't tell what the actual voltage is, just that there is voltage and its over the threshold for the optocoupler and picaxe logic to trigger. You could fine tune the threshold with some experimentation however, so it would be a known value.
The Arduino rig on the breadboard is a much better way of doing this (the Arduino has 6 analog inputs while the picaxe08M has 3, the picaxe20 has 6). I can sense 6 analog lines and give accurate values, so the four voltage rails as well as temperature in each case, not to mention output to an LCD. That's getting close to information overload though
As it is, the power LED will flash a different code depending which sigma22 is giving problems or if both are down.
All because I just wanted a single power indicator on the front of the case
I was a bit hesitant about the picaxe at first but I had a little help from someone at work to get started (Thanks Egon!) and it turned out easier than I initially thought.
| Originally Posted by johnwmclean /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is a headphone/speaker design? Keep em coming
Never heard of this, like to hear more about the pros and cons regarding this feature - never seen any on other builds. |
Primarily headphone, but I like to leave my options open
The is definitely a case of me making something more complicated than it needed to be
I wanted the front panel of the PSU case to just have a single button with the power indicator, however it was to be a dual PSU so I really needed to be able to show what state each PSU was in.
My original idea was to use the LED into an optocoupler and that told the microcontroller the sigma was working.
But! During the build, I messed up. One rail had 40V and the other 0V, but the LED was still lit, ok so that idea wasn't going to work the way I wanted, and it evolved into what it is now. Who says I don't learn from my mistakes
As you guessed yes there are pros and cons to this. The main downside is that you can't tell what the actual voltage is, just that there is voltage and its over the threshold for the optocoupler and picaxe logic to trigger. You could fine tune the threshold with some experimentation however, so it would be a known value.
The Arduino rig on the breadboard is a much better way of doing this (the Arduino has 6 analog inputs while the picaxe08M has 3, the picaxe20 has 6). I can sense 6 analog lines and give accurate values, so the four voltage rails as well as temperature in each case, not to mention output to an LCD. That's getting close to information overload though
As it is, the power LED will flash a different code depending which sigma22 is giving problems or if both are down.
All because I just wanted a single power indicator on the front of the case
I was a bit hesitant about the picaxe at first but I had a little help from someone at work to get started (Thanks Egon!) and it turned out easier than I initially thought.
johnwmclean
Aka: capone, bignurse.
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^ WOW my LEDS are purely cosmetic then LOL. Thankyou so much for the info, I'm really looking forward to those pics.
If this turns out to be a purely headphone psu, you get my vote for over the top OVERKILL. Please keep us posted with your amp developments!
If this turns out to be a purely headphone psu, you get my vote for over the top OVERKILL. Please keep us posted with your amp developments!
Gatsu
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As requested, a closeup of the FETS mounted on the heatsink
As you can see I cut away a section of the heatsink. This helps the fins of the heatsink line up with the vents in the bottom of the case.
And also a closeup of the picaxe controller
The four six pin chips near the front are the optocouplers - one for each rail.
Behind the heatsink for the regulator you can see the solid state relay mounted to the back panel.
As you can see I cut away a section of the heatsink. This helps the fins of the heatsink line up with the vents in the bottom of the case.
And also a closeup of the picaxe controller
The four six pin chips near the front are the optocouplers - one for each rail.
Behind the heatsink for the regulator you can see the solid state relay mounted to the back panel.
fault151
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Just looking at your pics, what does the picaxe controller do? Its a fiddly job mounting them mosfets to the conrad sinks isn't it? I know i did it on mine. Your pics are looking really good!
Gatsu
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Primarily the picaxe handles the power switching with some added bells and whistles.
In its simplest form it allows you to use a momentary push button to toggle the power on and off. But because of the additional inputs and logic also allows you to do some more interesting stuff.
If you didn't want to get fancy you could trim it down to just a handful of components to switch the power.
The Conrad (well I think its a Conrad - I bought them from my local Jaycar, no brand is mentioned on them) wasn't too bad to work with. It was just fiddly lining up everything at once.
Hopefully I'll get time to start casing up the amp this weekend.
In its simplest form it allows you to use a momentary push button to toggle the power on and off. But because of the additional inputs and logic also allows you to do some more interesting stuff.
If you didn't want to get fancy you could trim it down to just a handful of components to switch the power.
The Conrad (well I think its a Conrad - I bought them from my local Jaycar, no brand is mentioned on them) wasn't too bad to work with. It was just fiddly lining up everything at once.
Hopefully I'll get time to start casing up the amp this weekend.
fault151
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So it is a bit like the AMB LABS e24 board in a way. That is what i am using with my illuminated bulgin switch and power relay.
Can't wait to see your finished amp.
Can't wait to see your finished amp.
El_Doug
Headphoneus Supremus
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Quote:
im in the middle of soldering my e24, myself! my bulgin switch has a red LED - what about yours?
| Originally Posted by fault151 /img/forum/go_quote.gif So it is a bit like the AMB LABS e24 board in a way. That is what i am using with my illuminated bulgin switch and power relay. Can't wait to see your finished amp. |
im in the middle of soldering my e24, myself! my bulgin switch has a red LED - what about yours?
fault151
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I went for the blue type as my leds on the psu and amp are also blue.
Here's my blog which i post quite a bit about my b22 build on there.
| Originally Posted by El_Doug /img/forum/go_quote.gif im in the middle of soldering my e24, myself! my bulgin switch has a red LED - what about yours? |
I went for the blue type as my leds on the psu and amp are also blue.
Here's my blog which i post quite a bit about my b22 build on there.
Nebby
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Very cool blog, any more info on that relay board by MrMajestic?
| Originally Posted by fault151 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I went for the blue type as my leds on the psu and amp are also blue. Here's my blog which i post quite a bit about my b22 build on there. |
Very cool blog, any more info on that relay board by MrMajestic?
fault151
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In terms of trying it out i haven't had chance yet. I'll post a blog wehen i do get it hooked up.
If you need info on the actual design, PM him, im sure he will be happy to help.
He also designed another version which switches for a prer amp. I would have had that but was struggling for space in my amp.
| Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif Very cool blog, any more info on that relay board by MrMajestic? |
In terms of trying it out i haven't had chance yet. I'll post a blog wehen i do get it hooked up.
If you need info on the actual design, PM him, im sure he will be happy to help.
He also designed another version which switches for a prer amp. I would have had that but was struggling for space in my amp.
El_Doug
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space is certainly at a premium in my setup - im cutting every corner imaginable to get the amp section (all 4 boards, plus attenuator) into a 310mm x 230mm 1U enclosure. should look AMAZING... should I succeed...
n_maher
Resistorous Conflagorous
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I hope you've accounted for ventilation. The more I work on beta22's the more I think you can never have too much.
| Originally Posted by El_Doug /img/forum/go_quote.gif space is certainly at a premium in my setup - im cutting every corner imaginable to get the amp section (all 4 boards, plus attenuator) into a 310mm x 230mm 1U enclosure. should look AMAZING... should I succeed... |
I hope you've accounted for ventilation. The more I work on beta22's the more I think you can never have too much.
smeggy
Member of the Trade: ThunderpantsTP1
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I have partial success with mine now. The Sigma 22 is fixed but only one of the three boards is making sound. One seems to be blown blown and the third measures properly and the LED is lit but nothing is coming out so I have to see what's going on tomorrow. Hopefully it's something simple. If not I'll be running a single board mono Beta 11
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