[batmansbest]

You can move a fuse out of enclosure, assumimg there is a fuse inside power cord or socket, bridging a holder terminals permanently by soldering. The best fuse is no fuse, 0 cost. Like on this photo inside the plug:

Do you happen to know where I can get an American style socket like this one?
I make my own power cables, so this should be a very easy trial for me.

 

[David222]

Do you happen to know where I can get an American style socket like this one?
I make my own power cables, so this should be a very easy trial for me.

Just curious - and sorry if I missed it - but what does this have to do with Rockna ?

 

[batmansbest]

Does anyone know when the Hybrid mode Ladder DAC update will be released?

 

[sajunky]

Do you happen to know where I can get an American style socket like this one?
I make my own power cables, so this should be a very easy trial for me.

I don't know. This one from the old IBM equipment is made in UK for South African market. Before someone gave me this cord, I modified a standard multiplug extension box, replacing magnetic resetable overload protector button switch with a holder for a standard fuse.

The in-cable fuse holder can be used in case of making your own power cable. It is replaceable, but the attachment will not look elegant. Or solder a fuse permanently for heatshrinking - depends on your preference.

 

[batmansbest]

I don't know. This one from the old IBM equipment is made in UK for South African market. Before someone gave me this cord, I modified a standard multiplug extension box, replacing magnetic resetable overload protector button switch with a holder for a standard fuse.

The in-cable fuse holder can be used in case of making your own power cable. It is replaceable, but the attachment will not look elegant. Or solder a fuse permanently for heatshrinking - depends on your preference.

Your post inspired me to play around with the fuse assembly.
Took it completely out and soldered my fuse onto some Neotech Legenburg 20 Gauge flat wire, which is now soldered directly onto the board.
No cheap tin plated connector in the chain now.
Clarity and dynamics improved
Sound is smooth as can be...
Thank you
Bass on my speakers is more textured, and the entire presentation became deeper, and not as much in my face and upfront.
I'm enjoying this quite a bit

I couldn't find any reasonable way to get the fuse into my power cable cable, so this is the best solution for me.

 

[sajunky]

Your post inspired me to play around with the fuse assembly.
Took it completely out and soldered my fuse onto some Neotech Legenburg 20 Gauge flat wire, which is now soldered directly onto the board.
No cheap tin plated connector in the chain now.
Clarity and dynamics improved
Sound is smooth as can be...
Thank you

I couldn't find any reasonable way to get the fuse into my power cable cable, so this is the best solution for me.

I know it well.

BTW, All Audio GD equipment has soldered fuses. Users couldn't find a fuse holder, started screaming "Audio GD can catch fire", seen such posts.

 

[batmansbest]

I know it well.

BTW, All Audio GD equipment has soldered fuses. Users couldn't find a fuse holder, started screaming "Audio GD can catch fire", seen such posts.

I'm gonna remove the fuse holders from my amplifiers next. Thank you for the tip...
So much Audiophile wisdom gets lost over time, replaced inferior parts for "convenience".

 

[batmansbest]

I know it well.

BTW, All Audio GD equipment has soldered fuses. Users couldn't find a fuse holder, started screaming "Audio GD can catch fire", seen such posts.

Just took all the fuse holders out...two words: Transparency/Clarity.
The flat cable tilted the treble too high, so I had to go back to regular round 20 gauge OCC Copper wire.
It hit the sweet spot for me.
Textures and dynamics are on another level, sounds like I replaced a major component somewhere in the chain.

Thank you for your help.
If this is all I get out of Head-fi, it was worth it to start this account

 

[batmansbest]

Pic of a modified fuse installed without fuse holder. Sounds wonderful. Sounds very very focused and clean.
I had to try different orientations for installation, and a 20 gauge solid copper wire soldered on the side of the end caps way by far the best option.

I can't stop listening to music for the last few days, couldn't get a lick of work done

 

[sajunky]

Pic of a modified fuse installed without fuse holder. Sounds wonderful. Sounds very very focused and clean.
I had to try different orientations for installation, and a 20 gauge solid copper wire soldered on the side of the end caps way by far the best option.

I can't stop listening to music for the last few days, couldn't get a lick of work done

Did you modify a fuse? It is not allowed. It should also be a correct value as well. 4 amps seems to high.

Fuse can be soldered to the holder, but removing a holder makes the assembly flatter, it removes a parallel inductance.

Do you know what happens when fuse is placed in a holder having poor connection? The alternate current is not exactly following voltage applied. During zero crossing oxidation layer recovers, resistance becomes high. A current start flowing only after voltage raises to the certain level that breaks a barrier. This transition from low to high conductivity is fast, with wide spectrum. A peak current flows a loop created by the fuse holder spreading EMI inside device.

This is a simplified model, as it disregard inductance of a transformer, wiring and a main issue. It interferes in dissipation of a noise created on silicon rectifiers that carries significant energy also during the same zero crossing time. Normally zero crossing noise from silicon diodes is dissipated to the outside world through mains cable as impedance is low. A temporary lost of low resistance on the fuse holder cause that a switching noise from diodes has to dissipate internaly on the components of a power regulators.

TL;DR. It is worth to remember that magic is not in audiophile fuses. A magic is in a poor connection of a fuse holder temporarily losing of conductivity during zero crossing. The most effective action is to not look for better fuses, but get rid of a fuse holder.

 

[Basco]

Its

Pic of a modified fuse installed without fuse holder. Sounds wonderful. Sounds very very focused and clean.
I had to try different orientations for installation, and a 20 gauge solid copper wire soldered on the side of the end caps way by far the best option.

I can't stop listening to music for the last few days, couldn't get a lick of work done

Somehow odd that you modify a 5K DAC. From an engineering perspective Rockna products are already superior, no?

 

[batmansbest]

Its

Somehow odd that you modify a 5K DAC. From an engineering perspective Rockna products are already superior, no?

It's my DAC, I can do what I want
Everything I own is heavily modified, from Dap's to DACs, Speakers, amplifiers..etc etc everything. I build my own cables as well.
I don't know what Rockna does or doesn't do, but I can only go by what I hear...and the Fuse soldered in sounds quite significantly better than one that is in a fuse holder.

 

[batmansbest]

Did you modify a fuse? It is not allowed. It should also be a correct value as well. 4 amps seems to high.

Fuse can be soldered to the holder, but removing a holder makes the assembly flatter, it removes a parallel inductance.

Do you know what happens when fuse is placed in a holder having poor connection? The alternate current is not exactly following voltage applied. During zero crossing oxidation layer recovers, resistance becomes high. A current start flowing only after voltage raises to the certain level that breaks a barrier. This transition from low to high conductivity is fast, with wide spectrum. A peak current flows a loop created by the fuse holder spreading EMI inside device.

This is a simplified model, as it disregard inductance of a transformer, wiring and a main issue. It interferes in dissipation of a noise created on silicon rectifiers that carries significant energy also during the same zero crossing time. Normally zero crossing noise from silicon diodes is dissipated to the outside world through mains cable as impedance is low. A temporary lost of low resistance on the fuse holder cause that a switching noise from diodes has to dissipate internaly on the components of a power regulators.

TL;DR. It is worth to remember that magic is not in audiophile fuses. A magic is in a poor connection of a fuse holder temporarily losing of conductivity during zero crossing. The most effective action is to not look for better fuses, but get rid of a fuse holder.

The fuse is also Modified, instead of silica on the inside, It's ceramic body is filled with heat sink paste...allows for better heat dissipation. whatever the case maybe... it sounds less distorted, resolution is higher. The stock fuse for a 120v connection for this DAC is 6.3 amps, so I'm still under fused.
I've done A/B comparisons many many times between this modified and unmodified fuses, I have both.
Myself and other people can pick out the modified fuse a 100 out of a 100 times in listening tests.

 

[Basco]

It's my DAC, I can do what I want
Everything I own is heavily modified, from Dap's to DACs, Speakers, amplifiers..etc etc everything. I build my own cables as well.
I don't know what Rockna does or doesn't do, but I can only go by what I hear...and the Fuse soldered in sounds quite significantly better than one that is in a fuse holder.

Hey no offense, didn’t meant to criticize your modification approach. Sure it’s your equipment and if its your attempt trying to customize and solder it apart and together again happy to hear if it works for you.

Im not that technically gifted and hope from that price point on I get a well designed and good sounding device and personally would not go on heavy modification, besides the optimization that can be done with cables and combination with other gear like power converters or galvanic isolation.

 

[batmansbest]

Hey no offense, didn’t meant to criticize your modification approach. Sure it’s your equipment and if its your attempt trying to customize and solder it apart and together again happy to hear if it works for you.

Im not that technically gifted and hope from that price point on I get a well designed and good sounding device and personally would not go on heavy modification, besides the optimization that can be done with cables and combination with other gear like power converters or galvanic isolation.

This modification is completely reversible. Just take the fuse out and put the Fuse holder back in, takes no more than 5 minutes
Simple soldering.
Cables make a pretty significant difference, fuses are the same, and this direct fuse solder is the best that this DAC has sounded. It's pretty amazing how much little things like this add up to the final result. Did the same thing to my amps as well, I'm definitely in the camp of no fuse holders from here on out.