[cyberzent]

Thanks fo the reply guys, i have tried the push inwards turning the switch up and down to my thumbs getting red but the on/off buttom wont reset. And btw this isnt a issue its a PROBLEM when a unit costing 5300 dollar and it wont turn off properly. If it have been a Dark Star then it would have been a issue but this is a Tube-amp. The power cord shouldnt need to be the on/off switch when the unit only have been used a couple og hours. I have given Ray a proporsal, send the unit back or fix it at my local shop at his cost, the warranty should not be broken whatever he decides to do. I will post in here to let you guys know how it went off.. 

 

[cyberzent]

Quote:

i had a B-52 for some time (2-3 years). I encountered the switch issue a handful of times - maybe 5 times. did not think it was a big deal. you just push on the switch slightly when turning it on or off.

Tried it, doesen`t work ...

 

[zardon]

Then your unit must have a more serious problem. What you said initially is a well known switch issue which is easily resolved. Your switch must have failed completely if the fix isn't working...
 
best bet is to contact Ray as you say then. Sorry I couldn't help more.

 

[cyberzent]

Quote:

Then your unit must have a more serious problem. What you said initially is a well known switch issue which is easily resolved. Your switch must have failed completely if the fix isn't working...
 
best bet is to contact Ray as you say then. Sorry I couldn't help more.

Thanks Zardon appreciate the effort trying to help, I will give the switch another try when coming home, after that it is all up to Ray.

 

[zardon]

I am sure Ray will help. He is a very honest, genuine guy.
 
Really surprised this has happened so soon for you, they are generally so well built (although this switch problem has been mentioned on headfi now for some time as a bit of a concern for many people).
 

 

[cyberzent]

I have already 2 request from from my local hi-fi forum for a listening session about the B52. It would be nice to have the unit with its full functionality intact. 

 

[cyberzent]

Quote:

I am sure Ray will help. He is a very honest, genuine guy.
 

 
So I heard...

 

[musicman59]

I agree. Ray stands behind his products and will help you out.
Quote:

I am sure Ray will help. He is a very honest, genuine guy.
 
Really surprised this has happened so soon for you, they are generally so well built (although this switch problem has been mentioned on headfi now for some time as a bit of a concern for many people).
 

 

[cyberzent]

Quote:

I agree. Ray stands behind his products and will help you out.

At home and have been trying the late 15 minutes flipping the swith while pushing it inwards and having no luck at all. I have sendt Ray a couple of email and i am waiting at a answer what are the next step. Its pointless trying doing this more, I dont have magic hands just a ****load of bad luck it seems. 
Thanks for your answer guys. 

 

[zardon]

I think its safe to assume something has gone wrong with the switch. You would only need to gently push the little lever in while pushing up or down to get it to work again.

Happens on my b52 maybe once a month.

 

[cyberzent]

The magic formel suddenly seems to have worked for me too, I will test it some more to see if it holds. Ray is given me his best service no doubt about it but the switch is not worthy the B52.
But the sound is really really good !!

 

[zardon]

Quote:

The magic formel suddenly seems to have worked for me too, I will test it some more to see if it holds. Ray is given me his best service no doubt about it but the switch is not worthy the B52.
But the sound is really really good !!

So the push in trick worked?

 

[cyberzent]

Quote:

So the push in trick worked?

Yupp, but I swear I have done it like a 250 times before the exact same procedyre an it didn`t work. Now I am testing it to see if it will hold.
 
Wich tube are you using in yours Zardon, may I ask where you bought them ?  Are you using yours in pre-amp mode to and did you change the tubes as well ? I`we think the B52 sounds amazing when connected to my Denon 7K but i still think its preamp capacity have a little more to go on, therefore i`m thinking about changing tubes. 
 
I have heard both the Devialet and the Cary-SLP05 on my Marten Bird and its seems like maybe the B52 have a little more to go on..

 

[zardon]

Quote:

Yupp, but I swear I have done it like a 250 times before the exact same procedyre an it didn`t work. Now I am testing it to see if it will hold.
 
Wich tube are you using in yours Zardon, may I ask where you bought them ?  Are you using yours in pre-amp mode to and did you change the tubes as well ? I`we think the B52 sounds amazing when connected to my Denon 7K but i still think its preamp capacity have a little more to go on, therefore i`m thinking about changing tubes. 
 
I have heard both the Devialet and the Cary-SLP05 on my Marten Bird and its seems like maybe the B52 have a little more to go on..

It will probably happen again, it happens to my B52 maybe once a month and im pretty gentle with the switch.
 
I dont use the preamp, well not yet. Just for headphones. I have a ton of tubes for it, but I use Phillips MINIWATT HQ7119 in the front four positions and a variety of tubes in the back, left two positions (dont touch the preamp tubes as I dont care about that at the minute). Im actually using Full music 12AU7 tubes right now as they work great with the R10 for some reason (pure black background). Mullard work well with the HD800 as they warm up the slightly grainy treble a little. Bugle boy are great with the Denon D7000.
 
Loads of great vintage amperex, mullard, gold lion and others you can use in this amplifier.

 

[pigfatcat]

I am sure that means the darkstar has a certain noise level which is audible with the sensitive cans. That noise level remain the same or at least will not increase proportionally as the real output sound is increased. That's why the hiss can be heard when there is no music. For modern excellent SS amplifier , the THD + Noise is usually 0.01 % at 0-1w output and then steadily reduce to 0.001% at higher volumes ( or even phenoninal values like 0.0007% , o.0005% or 0.0003% for some extremely clear gears ) .The noise floor should be more or less constant while the HD may increase with the volume but not necessarily proportional.
 
With extremely revealing speakers or headphones , a well trained ear should be able to feel the sub0.01% distortion and noise, even if you do not actually hear it as such. It's just like when Sony and Philips first designed the Red Book CD standard they believed that 44.1khz sampling rate  was enough since experimental data showed that the human ear cannot hear any standalone frequency > 20Khz. It turned out that people struggled for almost 20 years to decide that 44.1khz is not enough . You cannot hear the super high frequecies alone , but you can feel it with the right speakers when it's together with other frequecies. Then comes SACD and DVD Audio and then the Hi Rez format . The rest is history. I guess it's the same for THD and noises. It's there and somehow you can feel it. You can actually hear it with very sensitive speaker or can when there is no music.
 
But then many people like the tube sound or the Vintage SS sound, because of the warm sound, or to put it bluntly, with a correct mix of a lot of distortion.