[AudioCats]

the adjustable temperature gives you more control when using different solders. You want to keep the temp as low as possible while still able to makes a good solder point. This will reduce possibility of component failure due to the high heat when soldering, and extend the tip's life.

One way to help reduce the corrosion on non-adjustabel temp iron is to lower the tip temperature when it's idling. Get an old cpu heatsink, when you are not soldering (iron still running, hot), rest the tip on the heatfins. That will draw some heat away.

 

[pinkfloyd4ever]

I read here (click "Tip tips" below the pic, it's at the bottom of page 2) that you should only tin your tip with RMA fluxed solder. Has anyone else heard this before? Is this true? Also, I used Ratshack 62/36/2(Ag) solder on my Cmoy and I'm about to start my next project-modifying my soundcard Cotdt-style. Is there any reason not to use the solder I have on it? I've been thinking about ordering some 63/37 Kester with my new iron, but if there's no reason not to use the RS silver-bearing solder, I'd rather save my money.

 

[Jammin72]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hakko Dash

Which one of these is the best choice. I've read that 700 degrees is about optimum. Do you go with the 698 degree iron and hope that it's enough or go with the 788 degree iron?

 

[mono]

Silver solder tends to have a more aggressive flux and needs higher temp which wears out iron tips faster, and the higher temp can also burn up flux more leaving more residue to clean off.

A solder with the mildest, least active RMA flux is going to be kindest to the iron but on the other hand people have been using other regular RA Kester solder for years without it being a problem. So I would think your particular solder is like a step in the opposite direction and the RA is the in-between alternative.

It's all a matter of what solder you want to use though, at worst assuming you can source the tips for any particular iron you'd just replace them more often but they should still last a fair amount of time and a tip is only $5 (ignoring higher-end or unusual irons), a fairly minor expense in contrast to most incurred in the hobby.

So it's not just tinning when you'd use RMA but always if it's a concern. If you're going to solder with another solder type anyway it may as well be tinned with it as after a few joints it's going to be mostly that other solder and flux remaining anyway as they mix together with every joint soldered till there is only a fraction remaining of the original solder it was tinned with.

 

[ojyarumaru]

I'd recommend simply getting new tips.

 

[ChickenGod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hakko Dash

x2

 

[TzeYang]

i'd say if DIY will be a long term hobby, invest in a Hakko 936 instead. I'm going to order mine soon but the distributor at my place is terribly inefficient.

 

[pinkfloyd4ever]

will the stock tip(B) work ok for the technique for soldering SMT chips where you drag the tip across all the pads on one side then apply the solder? or should I get the C or 2C? I've heard that the best all-around tip is a 1.5-2.0mm chisel, but I don't know if the Dash's cylindrical one(SD) would conduct heat well enough for many applications as a tapered one (like the D) would


Tho it might not seem like it from all I've just written, I'd prefer not to buy extra tips if the standard one works fine for everything from cables to SMT, I just don't want to have to pay $4 for shipping a $5 tip later if I find the stock one is too fine for cables or too bulky for SMT

oh and as usual, thanks for the detailed & informative response mono

 

[amphead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TzeYang /img/forum/go_quote.gif i'd say if DIY will be a long term hobby, invest in a Hakko 936 instead. I'm going to order mine soon but the distributor at my place is terribly inefficient.

Good advice!

I once bought a soldering iron from ratshack, and the insulation inside the handle was smoking. Lots of thick smoke coming from the vent holes. It turns out that the wiring had low temp insulation.

 

[MoonHawk]

the 936 is the only iron i'll ever need

 

[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkfloyd4ever /img/forum/go_quote.gif will the stock tip(B) work ok for the technique for soldering SMT chips where you drag the tip across all the pads on one side then apply the solder? or should I get the C or 2C? I've heard that the best all-around tip is a 1.5-2.0mm chisel, but I don't know if the Dash's cylindrical one(SD) would conduct heat well enough for many applications as a tapered one (like the D) would Tho it might not seem like it from all I've just written, I'd prefer not to buy extra tips if the standard one works fine for everything from cables to SMT, I just don't want to have to pay $4 for shipping a $5 tip later if I find the stock one is too fine for cables or too bulky for SMT oh and as usual, thanks for the detailed & informative response mono

The default T-B tip is a compromise tip. Some people might prefer it if they could only have one tip and it seems pretty precise compared to coming from a worse iron/tips, but it is a bit bigger than you'd want if trying to individually solder smaller SMT IC leads.

Some might prefer a medium-to-smaller chisel like T-SD instead of T-B for general purpose soldering. I guess I'm stating the obvious that if one tip was pretty good at everything they wouldn't sell all those shapes, but often you can still get the job done with the wrong shape so long as it isn't the wrong general size.

I can't predict which you will like best, one tip to do *everything* is a tough call. This is for small jobs, neither is suitable for larger jobs. The T-B might be slightly better for SMT chips but really for that you will probably find the best tip to be T-SC or T-1C for very tiny parts, or T-2C for most of the projects seen here at head-fi. If you don't get a 45 or 60' angle flat faced tip for SMT, you may end up holding the iron at funny angles sometimes, but you would find a way to do it. The 45' tip would be my first choice for drag soldering.

I don't know about that iron, but i picked up a 10 pack of assorted Hakko 900M tips on ebay for about $18 delivered. You might see if there are any on ebay first. I don't recall seeing any N452 but they (Hakko tips) come and go, and since I wasn't looking for those in particular I could have missed them.

 

[pinkfloyd4ever]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amphead /img/forum/go_quote.gif Good advice! I once bought a soldering iron from ratshack, and the insulation inside the handle was smoking. Lots of thick smoke coming from the vent holes. It turns out that the wiring had low temp insulation.

ya they still do...figured it was normal. it only takes like 10-15 minutes for it to burn off, and it's not like noxiois or burns your eyes & sinuses if you breathe it

BTW, anyone know of any scientific, statistically & realistically legit, unbiased studies on what the real health risk is of continuing to use lead in solder for electronics?

 

[DobsOnly]

I've had one of the Circuit Specialist Soldering stations for several years. It would certainly be worth considering and in your price range. Kind of a Hakko knock off at 1/3rd the price.

Here's a link to the website

http://www.web-tronics.com/cispdeesdsas.html

 

[Fangmasterflex]

+1 for circuit specialists

 

[pinkfloyd4ever]

anybody with a circuit specialists station have any of the chisel tips? cause in the pics the don't really look chisel shaped