recabling the k501...with pics!

[grawk]

What I've done is remove the jacket, color each cable and cut in the middle of the color

 

[warrior05]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif Isn't that just extra work? If I hook up one "ground" and one "signal wire" to one xlr and plug it in the amp, it either works if I have the right "ground" wire or it doesn't. I have a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong the first time and if it is wrong it's only one wire to change. No risk of breaking the earpiece taking it apart either right?

You can certainly go that route. I just tend to use my multimeter. Plus, I like taking things apart.

 

[kugino]

okay, time to revisit this as i just made my XLR adapter and am now ready to reterminate the k501. from all the previous posts there seems to be a couple of issues to deal with:

1. making sure that when the original cable is cut, one can keep track of the various strands so that when the plug is disassembled, the correct strands are identified (L, R, ground). if the wires are color-coded, this shouldn't be a problem.

2. even after correctly determining L and R, i need to figure out the correct ground wires that will make up the - leads to the balanced configuration (assuming the L and R are the + strands).

one way to do this is to open up one of the drivers and use a multimeter. possibly easy if the driver is easily accessible.

another suggestion by misterx is to test the ground wires to see which configuration is correct prior to soldering them...with a 50/50 chance that i'll get it correct on first take.

alternatively, someone who's opened up a k501 might be able to solve problem 1 by telling me whether the wires are colored and if so, which is L and which is R...but alas, it can't be that easy, can it?

okay, i'll start working on this and get back with results...

 

[kugino]

okay, i opened up a section of the cable...only to find THREE wires!! red, white, and yellow. now what?

i pried open the right cup and there are two wires - red and white. i'm having a bit of trouble getting the left one off and don't want to break it, but at least i know the yellow isn't ground.

so i'll probably have to recable rather than just reterminate, right?

 

[grawk]

If there's only 3 wires, then you'll have to recable, yup.

 

[kugino]

okay, here's what it looks like...btw, if you want to open up the earcups on these you actually need to remove the k501 stickers/badge to expose a screw. i just yanked mine off with a bit of force, which probably wasn't the best idea.

here's the cable showing the three wires:

here's the right cup with red and white wires:

here's the left cup with all three, but it looks like yellow and white go to the driver, which would make white ground, right?

so, what's next? i'm going to recable using my RS1 cable that was removed by alex. i'll just need to reterminate that to balanced. but, can someone please help me decipher the pictures above?

looks like L+ is the yellow and white is L-. R+ is the red and R- is the white. correct? i should be able to just remove that red wiring on the left cup, right?

the parts going to the post look like they run through wiring that's on the headband, thus connecting the two halves. i don't need to connect those since i'll be running L and R cables out of the cups, right?

 

[grawk]

White is definitely the ground in that picture. I'll assume you got the left/right part correct too.

 

[Zorander]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kugino /img/forum/go_quote.gif looks like L+ is the yellow and white is L-. R+ is the red and R- is the white. correct? i should be able to just remove that red wiring on the left cup, right? the parts going to the post look like they run through wiring that's on the headband, thus connecting the two halves. i don't need to connect those since i'll be running L and R cables out of the cups, right?

Correct on all counts.

 

[Fungi]

I know someone who broke the cups by prying them off like you did... Turns out you had good luck

 

[kugino]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fungi /img/forum/go_quote.gif I know someone who broke the cups by prying them off like you did... Turns out you had good luck

i know...my fingers hurt from trying to pry it open. i hope it goes back on okay...might have to glue it in place now. i'll work on the recabling later this evening...

 

[Fungi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kugino /img/forum/go_quote.gif i know...my fingers hurt from trying to pry it open. i hope it goes back on okay...might have to glue it in place now. i'll work on the recabling later this evening...

Why not remove the screws, put the cups in place, and then screw it on normally?

 

[nikongod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fungi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Why not remove the screws, put the cups in place, and then screw it on normally?

when you break off the screws that dosnt work so good.

 

[Zorander]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fungi /img/forum/go_quote.gif I know someone who broke the cups by prying them off like you did... Turns out you had good luck

Are they any easier to open than the K601/701?

 

[Fungi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod /img/forum/go_quote.gif when you break off the screws that dosnt work so good.

Heh, didn't notice that one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are they any easier to open than the K601/701?

Judging from the service manual I'd say they're similar in difficulty. K601/701 has the snap-on cover while K501 has the sticker over the screw.

 

[Zorander]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fungi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Judging from the service manual I'd say they're similar in difficulty. K601/701 has the snap-on cover while K501 has the sticker over the screw.

By "sticker over screw", is this the same with the Sextetts (which is very easy to remove)? The snap-on cover on the K601/701 is a real bitch to remove indeed.