[SteveM324]

I ended up buying a preamp with a second set of XLR outputs so I did not have to use the interface box on my main speakers. I am not sure if I even tried it on the main speakers since adding a longer signal path was a no go.

If I understand your setup, you have 2 sets of outputs on your preamp and you have separate power amps for the SR1a and your speakers. Is that correct? My vacuum tube preamp also has 2 sets of outputs, so I could do the same if I purchased another power amp just for the SR1a.

 

[yyzSB]

If I understand your setup, you have 2 sets of outputs on your preamp and you have separate power amps for the SR1a and your speakers. Is that correct? My vacuum tube preamp also has 2 sets of outputs, so I could do the same if I purchased another power amp just for the SR1a.

Yes. It is call amp rolling

You should get an amp with a lot of power. The RAAL will suck up the power via the interface box. I tried a CODA #8 with meters and the meters showed more current draw for the SR1a than my power-hungry Thiel CS3.7 speakers (a bit shocking).

I currently use a Parasound A21+ with the CODA 07x preamp. A very good match. I bought a used A21+ for about $2500. I have also tried a CODA #8, D-Sonic M3a 800s ($1500), modified LSA Voyager 350 GAN ($3K), Benchmark AHB2 (stereo and mono). I am very happy with the Parasound A21+. It is a bit warm and fatigue free with the SR1a. My CODA 07x preamp is a bit tube like. I use the CODA #8 on my speakers. I turn off 1 amp when I want to use the other amp.

 

[ddlo]

browsed through this thread and so many rave reviews about the unique soundstage of this nearfield earmontior. had missed the k1000 some 30 years ago. i was tempted to get the sr1a and jotunheim R w/multibit dac combo during the black friday sale.

just received my order today. super easy to set it up. plug in the usb cable and everything just work smoothly.

happy enjoying my early x'mas gift for myself

 

[jlbrach]

the combo you purchased may well be the best buy in this hobby today

 

[ddlo]

the combo you purchased may well be the best buy in this hobby today

indeed, and i paid slightly less for this set than for the DCA stealth i got earlier! i definitely enjoy the sr1a more.

maybe a tad more bottom end would be even better for pop music. otherwise i've nothing to complain about sound quality. very coherent and detailed sound reminds me of shure kse1200. i was totally amazed by the kse1200 when i first got it and kept listening for hours before reluctantly putting it down. sr1a is the only other iem/headphones i feel having this coherent, musical presentation. i'm sitting down enjoying the sr1a for the 2nd consecutive nights already.

but there's really too many sharp edges on the sr1a! raal better take care of this in their next product.

 

[Armament]

indeed, and i paid slightly less for this set than for the DCA stealth i got earlier! i definitely enjoy the sr1a more.

maybe a tad more bottom end would be even better for pop music. otherwise i've nothing to complain about sound quality. very coherent and detailed sound reminds me of shure kse1200. i was totally amazed by the kse1200 when i first got it and kept listening for hours before reluctantly putting it down. sr1a is the only other iem/headphones i feel having this coherent, musical presentation. i'm sitting down enjoying the sr1a for the 2nd consecutive nights already.

but there's really too many sharp edges on the sr1a! raal better take care of this in their next product.

What did you think about the soundstage? From what I understand it’s not as big as you would expect. Around HD800 levels? Any fatigue at all in the treble?

 

[cAsE sEnSiTiVe]

What did you think about the soundstage? From what I understand it’s not as big as you would expect. Around HD800 levels? Any fatigue at all in the treble?

I find the soundstage of the SR1a to be an accurate portrayal of what's on the recording.....in all directions. Better than any other headphone I've ever heard. No fatigue whatsoever. Highs are revealing, airy, and well balanced with the rest of the spectrum. It's now the only headphone I use when critical listening is the goal. Anything else sounds veiled to me.

 

[ferraro25]

Just a warning to anyone with the RAAL SR1a - out of nowhere, my pair started heating up to the point that it had a "burning" smell. Luckily it was not on my head as it was heating up - I barely had it on my head for 5 seconds before I noticed the heat. It was happening to both drivers at the same time, so I dunno if my cheap amp (edit: a TDA7498E-based amp - class D, 80 WPC) or RAAL's interface failed, but the fact that the drivers themselves can produce so much heat is enough that I am never going to use the SR1a again, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy the SR1a unless they are willing to risk being burned, literally.

Too bad, as I had found an EQ that made the sound near-perfect for me. I now have an excuse to look into other "end-game" headphones, now, though, haha. Back to the HD800S for the time being.

Edit: make that the DT 1990 Pro with the ~7.9 KHz peak "neutralized" via EQ. I've found that the HD800S is too muddy for me.

 

[Sandro Sena]

could you tell us which "cheap amp" you have, please?

 

[RickyV]

I wouldn't recommend anyone buy the SR1a unless they are willing to risk being burned, literally.

A bit dramatic. You do not know what happened.

 

[jlbrach]

tell that to all the people who own and love the sr1a...myself included

 

[KaiSc]

Just a warning to anyone with the RAAL SR1a - out of nowhere, my pair started heating up to the point that it had a "burning" smell. Luckily it was not on my head as it was heating up - I barely had it on my head for 5 seconds before I noticed the heat. It was happening to both drivers at the same time, so I dunno if my cheap amp (edit: a TDA7498E-based amp - class D, 80 WPC) or RAAL's interface failed, but the fact that the drivers themselves can produce so much heat is enough that I am never going to use the SR1a again, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy the SR1a unless they are willing to risk being burned, literally.

Too bad, as I had found an EQ that made the sound near-perfect for me. I now have an excuse to look into other "end-game" headphones, now, though, haha. Back to the HD800S for the time being.

Edit: make that the DT 1990 Pro with the ~7.9 KHz peak "neutralized" via EQ. I've found that the HD800S is too muddy for me.

Now that you don‘t need it any more, sell it to me.

 

[eboleyn]

Just a warning to anyone with the RAAL SR1a - out of nowhere, my pair started heating up to the point that it had a "burning" smell. Luckily it was not on my head as it was heating up - I barely had it on my head for 5 seconds before I noticed the heat. It was happening to both drivers at the same time, so I dunno if my cheap amp (edit: a TDA7498E-based amp - class D, 80 WPC) or RAAL's interface failed, but the fact that the drivers themselves can produce so much heat is enough that I am never going to use the SR1a again, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy the SR1a unless they are willing to risk being burned, literally.

Too bad, as I had found an EQ that made the sound near-perfect for me. I now have an excuse to look into other "end-game" headphones, now, though, haha. Back to the HD800S for the time being.

Edit: make that the DT 1990 Pro with the ~7.9 KHz peak "neutralized" via EQ. I've found that the HD800S is too muddy for me.

I'm really sorry to hear your expensive Raal SR1a's might be broken. Though, considering there haven't been a lot of complaints about this kind of failure mode (i.e. never seen it, even searched and found no other case), I'd strongly bet this is a point failure of your unit or the amp itself.

Did you consider trying to get it serviced?

You didn't say if this was when it's on with no audio, or with audio playing (and at what volume)?

Absolutely any speaker/headphone unit can heat up QUITE a bit if you pump a lot of power through it, especially if there's a short circuit or some other fault involved. I do a lot of DIY, so I've had a few cases of things try to fry a bit when the wrong things cross-connected. Luckily, nearly 100% of the time, such problems are relatively simple electrically and not too hard to diagnose/fix.

Disclaimer: I'm a Raal SR1a unit owner and like them and they've never had any kind of problem, so maybe I'm mildly biased, haha.

 

[new2mus]

Thanks for any help.

I just picked up a used HSA-1b and love it. I listen at low volumes and the volume knob even at just above 9o'clock is a bit loud for me. I read that the HSA-1b is configured to apply 10 dB of input attenuation out of the box. Will lowering it to 0 db using DIP-switch settings, located on the input board, help? Also, any thoughts about which is better, XLR or RCA (assuming same brand, length, etc.) into the HSA-1b for sound quality?

Here is the chain: Node 2 or iPad --> MScaler --> TT2 --> HSA-1b.

Also, I apologize if I'm asking a silly/easy question. I'm not sure what impact attenuation adjustment will have on sound quality or other things. Open to other options as well.

 

[FLTWS]

While the generally accepted wisdom is they come set at -10db, I found out this is not necessarily so. Mine came delivered at -6db.

Here's another persons set up set to -10db

Note also: the two boards are installed differently, mine is flipped around to the other side; my "ON" position is at the bottom of the blue box, the other has
the little board reversed and "ON" is at the top. I don't know which way it is supposed to be installed, or if it makes any difference (probably not).

ATTENUATION SETTINGS FOR HSA-1b

You need to pop the hood to know what the what is. The little switches can be easily moved, I used a little wooden dowel (Large fingers, LOL)
Note also, if you want to use more of the volume controls range go with RCA input and -10db setting.That's the combo I use with my Yggdrasil being 2 volts output SE if I want to use more of the volume controls range.
Balanced input will be louder and with Yggdrasil it is 4 volts output.
I have a number of HP amps with both SE and balanced inputs and outputs. The only difference I've heard might be a very slight improvement in channel separation which may have a very slight effect on imaging and soundstage, all other things being equal.
Remember, first, last and always; make sure the unit is unplugged before removing the top plate and sticking your fingers or any tool inside.

"Will lowering it to 0 db using DIP-switch settings, located on the input board, help?" I think it will do just the opposite.

If I got something wrong here I stand to be corrected by the technologically knowledgeable.