[Turcoda]

Sorry to hear about the bad luck with the 005.

The DAC3B is not as good as the 005. It is a bit fatiguing on top. I definitely do not recommend it with the SR1a with anythng other than the VM-1a. The AHB2 is also another amp that I do not recommend with the SR1a. When I used it with the SR1a I had 2 smooth pieces in front, the Musetec 005 DAC and the CODA 07x preamp, which were excellent with the SR1a. However, the AHB2 with a DAC3B and/or the Benchmark LA4 preamp is awful with the SR1a. The AHB2 with the Schitt Freya+ was rather good with the SR1a. The bloom in the Schitt tube preamp works well with the SR1a, though it is not as detailed as some other combos. The AHB2 is very tricky to get right with the SR1a, however, with my KEF LS50 speakers, the AHB2 is the best amp I have tried.

Now all this gear I am mentioning is much easier to pair with on my speakers. The SR1a was more difficult to get right.

When I get the VM-1a in the house, I plan on using the Benchmark DAC3B with it, instead of the Mustec 005. This is just a guess but that pairing maybe preferable to my ears. I have heard the DAC3 + VM-1a before and it was amazing.

Recently, with my CODA #8 being sold, I was able to reconfigure some gear in combos that I always wanted to do.

1) My CODA 07x preamp with my ABH2 and KEF LS50 speakers (one day upgrade the speakers).
2) The other system was my Benchmark LA4 preamp with my KRELL 175XD amp. The Musetec 005 DAC is on this system

The LA4 and KRELL combo is quieter than the 07x preamp and has a bit more bite to the music, which the KRELL can handle. The reason I say this on the RAAL SR1a thread, is that on my SR1a, this combo is hands down the very best combo I have heard on the SR1a using 2-channel gear. In the past I said the following was the best:

CODA 07x preamp | Musetec 005 DAC | KRELL 175XD

I like the following more:

Benchmark LA4 preamp | Musetec 005 DAC | KRELL 175XD.

This combo comes awfully close to the VM-1a. At least my audio memory from last month when I heard the VM-1a. It costs a lot more than the VM-1a and is not at the same level, but it is a great backup for me when the VM-1a needs tube replacement. It is also my 2-channel speaker gear. I unplug the speaker wire and puit it into the RAAL interface box when I use the SR1a.

Yeah i got that bit from your other posts as well. I do appreciate the awesome recommendation for that particular chain for the sr1a, but i dont think my wallet can go up that high. The thing is im usually really into detail monsters for my amps and dacs and always chase the maximum amount of speed and clarity. Although, now you've got me doubting my plans and i suspect itll be too harsh as well. For my budget, i think i might swap for schiit Tyr and/or singxer sda-6 for some added warmth.

They told me my 005 problems are quite unique, so for now ill just assume its a one off and just simply bad luck - REALLY bad luck, as it costs me 350$ to ship it back to shenzenaudio.

 

[eboleyn]

Yeah i got that bit from your other posts as well. I do appreciate the awesome recommendation for that particular chain for the sr1a, but i dont think my wallet can go up that high. The thing is im usually really into detail monsters for my amps and dacs and always chase the maximum amount of speed and clarity. Although, now you've got me doubting my plans and i suspect itll be too harsh as well. For my budget, i think i might swap for schiit Tyr and/or singxer sda-6 for some added warmth.

They told me my 005 problems are quite unique, so for now ill just assume its a one off and just simply bad luck - REALLY bad luck, as it costs me 350$ to ship it back to shenzenaudio.

Since you said you're "really into detail monsters", just a comment that the whole "neutral/accurate is bad" thing is clearly a preference issue.

While I enjoy the "class A/mild distortion sweetness" thing and have some expensive amps/preamps to create such effects, I also enjoy extreme accuracy and there are some lower priced solutions that have become available in just the last few years which achieve this handily. I think if you go back even more than a few years, the "extremely accurate" preamps/amps were just not the same level and may indeed have been deficient in some ways compared to the modern ones.

For the RAAL SR1a and wanting extreme accuracy (and now with the TI-1a!), I have been using a Schiit Modius/Magnius stack recently (~$400 US + shipping!) and found it to sound essentially identical to the more expensive Schiit Modius/Purifi 1ET400A combination or even Topping D30 Pro/Purifi 1ET400A combination... i.e. pushing upwards in price and measurement accuracy.

So, YMMV, but for accuracy-heads there are solutions on the cheap which sound awesome!

 

[deafenears]

The amp to interface cable (HPL) is 2ft.

~25 inches or ~63 cm.

If one needs a longer amp to interface cable, can we get any custom cable maker to make one? Any particular things to look out for when getting a longer cable made like gauge, shielding or no shielding, maximum length etc.?

 

[Turcoda]

Since you said you're "really into detail monsters", just a comment that the whole "neutral/accurate is bad" thing is clearly a preference issue.

While I enjoy the "class A/mild distortion sweetness" thing and have some expensive amps/preamps to create such effects, I also enjoy extreme accuracy and there are some lower priced solutions that have become available in just the last few years which achieve this handily. I think if you go back even more than a few years, the "extremely accurate" preamps/amps were just not the same level and may indeed have been deficient in some ways compared to the modern ones.

For the RAAL SR1a and wanting extreme accuracy (and now with the TI-1a!), I have been using a Schiit Modius/Magnius stack recently (~$400 US + shipping!) and found it to sound essentially identical to the more expensive Schiit Modius/Purifi 1ET400A combination or even Topping D30 Pro/Purifi 1ET400A combination... i.e. pushing upwards in price and measurement accuracy.

So, YMMV, but for accuracy-heads there are solutions on the cheap which sound awesome!

I noticed similar results in other pairings. In detail and accuracy I noticed my Hypex amp was on par or better than some of my other more pricy class A stuff. Transient speed and tonality is another thing I watch out for. Some of the cheaper stuff can sound a bit too lean though.

I think I understand what he meant when he said its a bad thing. The ribbon drivers tend to be harsh at the top and I suspect some pairings will amplify this feature. He's got me a tad bit afraid. Otherwise, you're right, it would seem like my preference aligns with that quality.

Omg, I truly wish I could demo your TI-1a. Ive been dying to know what it sounds like. I JUST ordered a Jot R this week. Its essentially the same price as a TI-1a. I wish I knew if I made the right call or not.

Oh btw, I just sold my HSA-1B last week in order to downgrade to that Jot R. It sounded sharper to me. I'm probably the first in the forum to have done such a blasphemous thing. So yeah, I definitely appreciate the cheaper stuff sometimes : D

 

[FLTWS]

...
Oh btw, I just sold my HSA-1B last week in order to downgrade to that Jot R. It sounded sharper to me. I'm probably the first in the forum to have done such a blasphemous thing. So yeah, I definitely appreciate the cheaper stuff sometimes : D

Not blasphemous at all. You're just being honest with yourself as pertains to your personal sound preference(s) and perhaps its also about how it will mesh with the sound of the other parts in your chain of components.

 

[Tchoupitoulas]

I JUST ordered a Jot R this week. Its essentially the same price as a TI-1a. I wish I knew if I made the right call or not.

If you didn't you could make use of Schiit's return policy: "Jotunheim R is covered by a 5-year limited warranty that covers parts and labor. And if you don’t like your Jotunheim R, you can send it back for a refund, minus 5% restocking fee, within 15 days of receiving it."

 

[eboleyn]

I noticed similar results in other pairings. In detail and accuracy I noticed my Hypex amp was on par or better than some of my other more pricy class A stuff. Transient speed and tonality is another thing I watch out for. Some of the cheaper stuff can sound a bit too lean though.

I think I understand what he meant when he said its a bad thing. The ribbon drivers tend to be harsh at the top and I suspect some pairings will amplify this feature. He's got me a tad bit afraid. Otherwise, you're right, it would seem like my preference aligns with that quality.

Omg, I truly wish I could demo your TI-1a. Ive been dying to know what it sounds like. I JUST ordered a Jot R this week. Its essentially the same price as a TI-1a. I wish I knew if I made the right call or not.

For neutral equipment I've been trying to factor out my own "personal preference" a bit by noting measurements (ala the Audiosciencereview site for example) and getting equipment with low IM distortion. In the past I'd had neutral equipment which had a sense of being lean or whatnot, but moving to the more recent generation (since 2018 or so) of ultra-low distortion has generally completely eliminated it for me.

The notable exception seems to be associated with passive crossovers and amp interactions. I.e. I've noted that passive crossovers have non-trivial interactions with amps and the Class-D amps still have had a bit of catching up to do with the Class-A and Class-A/AB amps. When using "very easy to drive" loads such as the RAAL SR-1a or direct driving speaker drivers with no crossover (my standard method with my best speaker setups), then those issues have gone away. Haven't re-tried all this after about 2020 with the newest gen of Class-D coming along, but there you go.

I've never felt that ribbons were "harsh" when properly integrated, but my first experience was with the RAAL 70-20XR ribbons in a set of speakers I built, and they are the most effortless ribbons I've used even since (trivial to build crossovers with, and very flat so my "just-out-of-the-box" experience was nigh flawless), so I'm probably a bit biased by now.

FWIW, I'd like to note that in fact during my "just-out-of-the-box" testing of the SR-1a, the sound signature seemed off and it seemed like I had to turn it up to hear properly and it then left me thinking they were too loud/"harsh". Some measurement and then digital correction completely cured that and now they have essentially the identical signature to my fancy active-crossover/corrected speakers.

This "needs correction" thing is not unique to the SR-1a. My Hifiman HE-6se's had seemed a bit off for a while until I did the same thing to them, and while the sound signature is not quite the same and effortless as the SR-1a, they now have the same satisfying "I can hear all the music without turning it up to grating levels" feeling.

Oh btw, I just sold my HSA-1B last week in order to downgrade to that Jot R. It sounded sharper to me. I'm probably the first in the forum to have done such a blasphemous thing. So yeah, I definitely appreciate the cheaper stuff sometimes : D

I'm more similar to your camp as you may have noted from the comment that I'm using a Schiit Magnius (which, BTW, measure insanely good as long as you're OK to live in the power delivery envelope), though when in a "sweet sound" mood I do enjoy my LTA Microzotl Pre/Pass Labs XA30.8 combo which is like 50X as expensive!

 

[Aleksandar R.]

If one needs a longer amp to interface cable, can we get any custom cable maker to make one? Any particular things to look out for when getting a longer cable made like gauge, shielding or no shielding, maximum length etc.?

We offer 6 and 10 ft. Input cables.
You don't need to choose any gauge larger than 24, as the cable is terminated with 16 or 32 ohms, so you won't make significant losses.
Avoid crosstalk , but I don't think that the shielding is necessary.

 

[jlbrach]

I noticed similar results in other pairings. In detail and accuracy I noticed my Hypex amp was on par or better than some of my other more pricy class A stuff. Transient speed and tonality is another thing I watch out for. Some of the cheaper stuff can sound a bit too lean though.

I think I understand what he meant when he said its a bad thing. The ribbon drivers tend to be harsh at the top and I suspect some pairings will amplify this feature. He's got me a tad bit afraid. Otherwise, you're right, it would seem like my preference aligns with that quality.

Omg, I truly wish I could demo your TI-1a. Ive been dying to know what it sounds like. I JUST ordered a Jot R this week. Its essentially the same price as a TI-1a. I wish I knew if I made the right call or not.

Oh btw, I just sold my HSA-1B last week in order to downgrade to that Jot R. It sounded sharper to me. I'm probably the first in the forum to have done such a blasphemous thing. So yeah, I definitely appreciate the cheaper stuff sometimes : D

with a solid amp the Tl is a far better option than the jotr..I have both now

 

[SteveM324]

with a solid amp the Tl is a far better option than the jotr..I have both now

How does the 13R/TI compare to the HSB-1B?

 

[jlbrach]

I am really enjoying both the 13r and formula s/powerman with the Tl....I have been spending more time with the the 13r and formula s combo recently

 

[SteveM324]

I am really enjoying both the 13r and formula s/powerman with the Tl....I have been spending more time with the the 13r and formula s combo recently

How are you connecting the 13R (speaker outputs or 1/4” plug) to the TI? Did RAAL make a special cable for you?

 

[jlbrach]

I bought a converter for the SE out and used the included cable to connect to the Tl

 

[SteveM324]

I bought a converter for the SE out and used the included cable to connect to the Tl

Thanks!

 

[Turcoda]

For neutral equipment I've been trying to factor out my own "personal preference" a bit by noting measurements (ala the Audiosciencereview site for example) and getting equipment with low IM distortion. In the past I'd had neutral equipment which had a sense of being lean or whatnot, but moving to the more recent generation (since 2018 or so) of ultra-low distortion has generally completely eliminated it for me.

The notable exception seems to be associated with passive crossovers and amp interactions. I.e. I've noted that passive crossovers have non-trivial interactions with amps and the Class-D amps still have had a bit of catching up to do with the Class-A and Class-A/AB amps. When using "very easy to drive" loads such as the RAAL SR-1a or direct driving speaker drivers with no crossover (my standard method with my best speaker setups), then those issues have gone away. Haven't re-tried all this after about 2020 with the newest gen of Class-D coming along, but there you go.

I've never felt that ribbons were "harsh" when properly integrated, but my first experience was with the RAAL 70-20XR ribbons in a set of speakers I built, and they are the most effortless ribbons I've used even since (trivial to build crossovers with, and very flat so my "just-out-of-the-box" experience was nigh flawless), so I'm probably a bit biased by now.

FWIW, I'd like to note that in fact during my "just-out-of-the-box" testing of the SR-1a, the sound signature seemed off and it seemed like I had to turn it up to hear properly and it then left me thinking they were too loud/"harsh". Some measurement and then digital correction completely cured that and now they have essentially the identical signature to my fancy active-crossover/corrected speakers.

This "needs correction" thing is not unique to the SR-1a. My Hifiman HE-6se's had seemed a bit off for a while until I did the same thing to them, and while the sound signature is not quite the same and effortless as the SR-1a, they now have the same satisfying "I can hear all the music without turning it up to grating levels" feeling.


I'm more similar to your camp as you may have noted from the comment that I'm using a Schiit Magnius (which, BTW, measure insanely good as long as you're OK to live in the power delivery envelope), though when in a "sweet sound" mood I do enjoy my LTA Microzotl Pre/Pass Labs XA30.8 combo which is like 50X as expensive!

Wow, interesting. I'm still at the beginning of my audiophile journey it seems. Its interesting you mentioned the raal tweeters as well. I was about to purchase a set of BMRs, but I got the strange itch to build my own with a pair of the 70-20XR tweeters. May I ask which woofers you paired them with and how you worked out the crossover? I have no idea how to build a passive one and was tempted to see if going active digital would be worth the cost. As for the woofer, it seems most raal pairings are paper cone woofers for some reason. Not sure if this is due to impedance ratings or cost.