[rmouser]

It sounds like the two connectors on the top may be reversed. Turn off the amp and reverse them.

 

[melkenshawn]

  It sounds like the two connectors on the top may be reversed. Turn off the amp and reverse them.

Hmm i've tried almost every single configuration and it still isn't helping

 

[DecentLevi]

@melkenshawn I think I have the solution for your quiet dual 7193's:
 
* Orientate the 7193 adapter so that the G-cap markings are in front of you and the A-cap markings are furthest away. 
   Connect both G-cap wires to the to the outside caps of both 7193 tubes, and
   Connect both A-cap wires to the inside of both tubes
    
   - sometimes although the wires on top are on the caps, they can actually be loose, so you may want to either try twisting the wire on top a bit until it sounds connected better (careful take the headphones off for the loud popping sound), or try cleaning the connections with electrical oil
 
* Set the Ember to high gain, by removing the panel and moving the position of the dip switch in the rear, towards the right.
 
If these still don't work, then either your tubes are bad, or the adapter is not right.
IIRC, you may be one of the first to try the 1 adapter method, while most of us are using both 12ax7 to 6sn7 AND 6sn7 to 7193 adapters

 

[melkenshawn]

  @melkenshawn I think I have the solution for your quiet dual 7193's:
 
* Orientate the 7193 adapter so that the G-cap markings are in front of you and the A-cap markings are furthest away. 
   Connect both G-cap wires to the to the outside caps of both 7193 tubes, and
   Connect both A-cap wires to the inside of both tubes
    
   - sometimes although the wires on top are on the caps, they can actually be loose, so you may want to either try twisting the wire on top a bit until it sounds connected better (careful take the headphones off for the loud popping sound), or try cleaning the connections with electrical oil
 
* Set the Ember to high gain, by removing the panel and moving the position of the dip switch in the rear, towards the right.
 
If these still don't work, then either your tubes are bad, or the adapter is not right.
IIRC, you may be one of the first to try the 1 adapter method, while most of us are using both 12ax7 to 6sn7 AND 6sn7 to 7193 adapters

First off thank you for the very detailed reply! I've tried all of the methods you've stated above other than cleaning the connections, and the attempts to rectify the problem has been futile thus far. I'm still not sure what's causing the problem 

 

[thunderhead]

I did some reading on the diy.boards.net where Frans (the designer of all of the Project amps) and he posted the below: it may be that the tube heater is not receiving and voltage/current.
 
 
 
The possible mods may be related to the heater pin arrangement.
The Ember 'senses' if the '9-pin' carries a voltage (current) which is the case with 12V tubes but NOT with 6V tubes.
Depending on this current tpin 4 and 5 either get connected to 0V and 6V (for 6V tubes) and 4-5 are connected for 12V tubes.

The 'problem' is that you can either 'fix' pin 4 or pin 5 to 6.3V and connect the other pin either to ground or the other pin.
Technically it doesn't matter which one is chosen BUT it does matter for adapters as these have to be wired in a certain way (either 4 or 5 is connected).

Turns out that the cheaper fleabay adapters can directly be used on all Garage 1217 amps with manual heater select (but has to be set to 12V for 6V tubes) but connects to the wrong pin on the Ember.
The heater thus doesn't receive power in Ember.

For this reason Jeremy made his own adapter which has a 'selector' in it so you can set it to Ember or the other amps.
We thought about changing the 4-5 pin layout in Ember 2 but that would lead to even more confusion so the 'selectable' adapter was born.
Nicer made and shorter as well....

So it may be possible the heater is not wired correctly.

Read more: http://diyah.boards.net/thread/143/project-ember?page=104#ixzz3jUiFNMoM

 

[thunderhead]

I have a 12AU7 to 7193 adapter that is in the US--should see it soon. It is supposed to run in amps with manual voltage selection. I have a Sunrise 2 to try it. Frans states that there is a problem with the auto voltage sensing that does not occur with the 6SN7 to 7193 adapter,

 

[melkenshawn]

  I have a 12AU7 to 7193 adapter that is in the US--should see it soon. It is supposed to run in amps with manual voltage selection. I have a Sunrise 2 to try it. Frans states that there is a problem with the auto voltage sensing that does not occur with the 6SN7 to 7193 adapter,

Oh well if you finally get it, please comment here so i know if the problem lies in the adapter. Thank you. 

 

[HOWIE13]

The adapter you are using is the problem.
You can't use a 7193 to 12AU7 adapter into the Ember, because of the auto heater voltage selector, though you can use it with other Garage 1217 amps where you select the heater voltage manually. A 7193 to 6DJ8 might work since my 6SN7 to 6DJ8 adapter works in the Ember (but my 6SN7 to 12AU7 adapter doesn't).
I would buy one of Jeremy's custom made 6SN7 Ember adapters and then connect a 7193 to 6SN7 adapter into it. That works fine. Hope you can sort it out, it's certainly worth it !

 

[rmouser]

 

  I have a 12AU7 to 7193 adapter that is in the US--should see it soon. It is supposed to run in amps with manual voltage selection. I have a Sunrise 2 to try it. Frans states that there is a problem with the auto voltage sensing that does not occur with the 6SN7 to 7193 adapter,

Oh well if you finally get it, please comment here so i know if the problem lies in the adapter. Thank you. 

The 12AU7 to 7193 adapter arrived today. The quality and workmanship is actually very good.
 
It did not work in the Sunrise 2; quiet just like the Ember--6 or 12 volt setting. The heater filaments both glowed though.
 
I whipped out the DVM and went to town. What I found is that pins 5 and 4 were jumpered and went to one of the 7193 heater pins and pin 9 went to the other heater pin. The heaters are wired in series. I cut the jumper and moved the pin 9 wire to pin 4.
 
Tried it in the Sunrise first and they biased nicely at 12 volts. Sounded great.
 
Moved it to the Ember and the auto bias worked flawlessly. Sounds phenomenal.
 
So now the adapter works back and forth between the amps, HOWEVER, it is about 1/4 inch too short to clear the output caps. I was prepared for that as I have two 9 pin socket savers.
 
I have been soldering computer motherboards and other electronics for three decades and have an industrial grade soldering station and it was not easy.
 
Irony--it seems the 6DJ8 will work, I "flipped a coin" and the 12AU7 "won"--go figure

 

[HOWIE13]

  The 12AU7 to 7193 adapter arrived today. The quality and workmanship is actually very good.
 
It did not work in the Sunrise 2; quiet just like the Ember--6 or 12 volt setting. The heater filaments both glowed though.
 
I whipped out the DVM and went to town. What I found is that pins 5 and 4 were jumpered and went to one of the 7193 heater pins and pin 9 went to the other heater pin. The heaters are wired in series. I cut the jumper and moved the pin 9 wire to pin 4.
 
Tried it in the Sunrise first and they biased nicely at 12 volts. Sounded great.
 
Moved it to the Ember and the auto bias worked flawlessly. Sounds phenomenal.
 
So now the adapter works back and forth between the amps, HOWEVER, it is about 1/4 inch too short to clear the output caps. I was prepared for that as I have two 9 pin socket savers.
 
I have been soldering computer motherboards and other electronics for three decades and have an industrial grade soldering station and it was not easy.
 
Irony--it seems the 6DJ8 will work, I "flipped a coin" and the 12AU7 "won"--go figure

It's interesting the 12AU7 adapter didn't work in your Sunrise because it works perfectly in my Starlight and Horizon. 

 

[melkenshawn]

[COLOR=000000]The 12AU7 to 7193 adapter arrived today. The quality and workmanship is actually very good.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]It did not work in the Sunrise 2; quiet just like the Ember--6 or 12 volt setting. The heater filaments both glowed though.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]I whipped out the DVM and went to town. What I found is that pins 5 and 4 were jumpered and went to one of the 7193 heater pins and pin 9 went to the other heater pin. The heaters are wired in series. I cut the jumper and moved the pin 9 wire to pin 4.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]Tried it in the Sunrise first and they biased nicely at 12 volts. Sounded great.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]Moved it to the Ember and the auto bias worked flawlessly. Sounds phenomenal.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]So now the adapter works back and forth between the amps, HOWEVER, it is about 1/4 inch too short to clear the output caps. I was prepared for that as I have two 9 pin socket savers.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=000000]I have been soldering computer motherboards and other electronics for three decades and have an industrial grade soldering station and it was not easy.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000] [/COLOR]
Irony--it seems the 6DJ8 will work, I "flipped a coin" and the 12AU7 "won"--go figure

Would you mind doing a picture guide? I have a soldering station and the basic soldering equipment. This sounds like an interesting task to take on.

 

[melkenshawn]

Ok i finally got it working!!! I love you guys. Using the schematic above, what you do is remove the solder linking 4 to 5. Then you desolder the wire at the 9pin and solder it to the 4th pin. I know its already mentioned how to perform this mod above, but i hope this helps those that are still confused. If anyone has any issues, please feel free to contact me!

 

[DecentLevi]

LOL you guys shouldn't just be audiophiles, you should also be... electricians, sound engineers, producers, etc. with all those electrical skills! 

(I'm sure many of us are though)
 
Anyway please reply back about your impressions of the F.E. 7193 setup. I think it usually sounds better with the caps (not bypassed)

 

[HOWIE13]

  LOL you guys shouldn't just be audiophiles, you should also be... electricians, sound engineers, producers, etc. with all those electrical skills! 

(I'm sure many of us are though)
 
Anyway please reply back about your impressions of the F.E. 7193 setup. I think it usually sounds better with the caps (not bypassed)

So I eventually got my adapter and since I was listening with the Horizon at the time continued listening with the adapter in the Horizon. That was 4 days ago and I am still marveling at the difference in soundstage, imaging, depth of sound and instrument separation. I think keeping the caps in reduces the treble detail slightly and I left them bypassed- though might be useful to slightly tame an over-bright recording or headphones, possibly, but that's with the Horizon-sometime I will get to the Ember.

 

 

[Mechans1]

  I just ordered my Ember with the 6SN7 adapter.
 
I have read so much about Sylvania 6SN7GT/6SN7GTA that I would like to order one. The spread in prices on ebay is overwhelming. Any tips to know which one should I get? Also, which flavor is more recommended for deep bass, the 6SN7GT or 6SN7GTA?
 
I can see tubes from >20 USD to 200 USD!

I am an inveterate tube roller from other forums.  I love 6SN7 in particular and guess which manufacturer, yes Sylvania.  I am kinda pressed for time right now but will write more if needed.  Get the Syl. GTs with the older construction you are getting a "W" in a consumer package.  The GTA may have that same construction but often doesn't.  If you are dealing with an up and up seller who understand what they have,  you can save considerable money.  Alas Alack, many don't know or pretend not to know and then remind you its Caveat Emptor" no money back its Buyer Beware!