Post your computer specs!~
Nov 6, 2023 at 3:53 PM Post #2,911 of 3,132
Your card is most likely throttling a lot if it's running 100 degrees, so you aren't getting all of its performance.
Have you checked if it needs a cleaning? Dust acts as isolation if it builds up, and prevents good airflow on the card, which in total significantly reduces the cards ability to get rid of heat. If you haven't ever cleaned your computer, this could be part of the issue and worth checking.
It's actually the CPU reaching that temp, but the card is near the CPU which seems to be an issue with today's component placements.

I cleaned all the dust. It's either the CPU over heating and screen going black, but the CPU overheating is causing the card to go blackscreen. Lately, I've seen it restart with fans going full blast, which makes me suspect it's an heat issue in general.
 
Nov 6, 2023 at 3:58 PM Post #2,912 of 3,132
It's actually the CPU reaching that temp, but the card is near the CPU which seems to be an issue with today's component placements.

I cleaned all the dust. It's either the CPU over heating and screen going black, but the CPU overheating is causing the card to go blackscreen. Lately, I've seen it restart with fans going full blast, which makes me suspect it's an heat issue in general.
Ahh misread you post, sorry.
Does the heatsink on the CPU cooler actually get super hot (watch your fingers!) Or is it significantly cooler? If it is a lot cooler, it could be because the thermal paste between the cooler and CPU needs to be reapplied.
 
Nov 7, 2023 at 5:50 AM Post #2,914 of 3,132
If you have an AMD 7800X, 7900X, or 7950X (not X3D) CPU, or the Intel 12th, 13th, or 14th-gen CPU, they are now designed to purposefully ramp up the clock speeds until the CPU throttles at 100C. This is standard in current design of those CPUs, especially with Intel.
That's why cooling is so important for these newer CPUs. If you have a mega-huge and efficient cooler, then it will maintain the temps better and eke out a couple/few hundred MHz more performance. Then again, if your cooling solution is not efficient, then it will severealy throttle performance. Moreso than even with previous CPUs that weren't designed to boil water at "expected" temperatures.
But these CPUs themselves are "designed" to perform at peak load based on that 100C marker. This is counterintuitive to all CPUs of the past, where performance was set to a specific speed, and temps should rarely exceed 90C. The hotter the chip runs, the less the life of the CPU. With that said, they can still last several years even if they are running "hot". Part of the life will be based on the silicon lottery as well (some will naturally perform better than others, but all should perform within the specs posted by the company).

This attempt between AMD and Intel to "top the list" in performance by overpowering and overheating CPUs has been debated frequently over the last year or so. You can undervolt the CPU (or use "Eco Mode", but it will hamper performance a lot) verrry slightly, and have 85%-95% performance with temps lowered by 12-18C. Also, much much less power consumption. A 13900k at peak uses about 290+ watts @ 100C, but slightly undervolted can reduce that peak load to 220watts @83C with 93% of the performance.

Anyhoo, with that said, I agree @Lindholdt saying that it might be good to re-apply the thermal paste.
Since you have a pre-built, there may be something simple that is hindering performance. I would not say most pre-builts are "reliable" right out of the box, thus a little love and elbow grease could push that machine to new levels of pWn.
I think if I ever got a pre-built, I'd ensure the airflow is good in the case (would never buy a case that had a covered front panel. Ever.), that there is proper negative pressure airflow, and ensure the fans are blowing in the right direction. While doing that, I'd also look to make sure all devices are fully connected, and the GPU is fully locked into place. Then, I would probably apply my own thermal paste to the CPU just to make sure it was done right. Once you take that heatsink off, you'll have to reapply the paste anyway. Simply remove the old paste with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol (from both the CPU and the heatsink plate).
I usually repaste my laptops when I buy them. That's a real pain to do sometimes, but it gives me peace of mind.

Finally, checking BIOS settings is also a good idea. I think your video link earlier is referencing the lack of enabling XMP for the RAM, at the very least. Yes, this happens often with prebuilds. They don't even fix simple settings in the BIOS (and they usually have a very old version of the BIOS). Additionally, they will use one RAM stick instead of two, thus halving the performance of the RAM. Or, they put them into the wrong DIMM bays, so XMP won't enable. Many little things like that can happen.
 
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Nov 7, 2023 at 9:02 AM Post #2,916 of 3,132
If you have an AMD 7800X, 7900X, or 7950X (not X3D) CPU, or the Intel 12th, 13th, or 14th-gen CPU, they are now designed to purposefully ramp up the clock speeds until the CPU throttles at 100C. This is standard in current design of those CPUs, especially with Intel.
That's why cooling is so important for these newer CPUs. If you have a mega-huge and efficient cooler, then it will maintain the temps better and eke out a couple/few hundred MHz more performance. Then again, if your cooling solution is not efficient, then it will severealy throttle performance. Moreso than even with previous CPUs that weren't designed to boil water at "expected" temperatures.
But these CPUs themselves are "designed" to perform at peak load based on that 100C marker. This is counterintuitive to all CPUs of the past, where performance was set to a specific speed, and temps should rarely exceed 90C. The hotter the chip runs, the less the life of the CPU. With that said, they can still last several years even if they are running "hot". Part of the life will be based on the silicon lottery as well (some will naturally perform better than others, but all should perform within the specs posted by the company).

This attempt between AMD and Intel to "top the list" in performance by overpowering and overheating CPUs has been debated frequently over the last year or so. You can undervolt the CPU (or use "Eco Mode", but it will hamper performance a lot) verrry slightly, and have 85%-95% performance with temps lowered by 12-18C. Also, much much less power consumption. A 13900k at peak uses about 290+ watts @ 100C, but slightly undervolted can reduce that peak load to 220watts @83C with 93% of the performance.

Anyhoo, with that said, I agree @Lindholdt saying that it might be good to re-apply the thermal paste.
Since you have a pre-built, there may be something simple that is hindering performance. I would not say most pre-builts are "reliable" right out of the box, thus a little love and elbow grease could push that machine to new levels of pWn.
I think if I ever got a pre-built, I'd ensure the airflow is good in the case (would never buy a case that had a covered front panel. Ever.), that there is proper negative pressure airflow, and ensure the fans are blowing in the right direction. While doing that, I'd also look to make sure all devices are fully connected, and the GPU is fully locked into place. Then, I would probably apply my own thermal paste to the CPU just to make sure it was done right. Once you take that heatsink off, you'll have to reapply the paste anyway. Simply remove the old paste with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol (from both the CPU and the heatsink plate).
I usually repaste my laptops when I buy them. That's a real pain to do sometimes, but it gives me peace of mind.

Finally, checking BIOS settings is also a good idea. I think your video link earlier is referencing the lack of enabling XMP for the RAM, at the very least. Yes, this happens often with prebuilds. They don't even fix simple settings in the BIOS (and they usually have a very old version of the BIOS). Additionally, they will use one RAM stick instead of two, thus halving the performance of the RAM. Or, they put them into the wrong DIMM bays, so XMP won't enable. Many little things like that can happen.
I bought one of these ibuypower prebuilt pcs a few years ago.

xmp was not enabled out of the box. Their house brand liquid cooler failed within a year and when i took it off the the thermal paste had dried and was peeling off.

There's always a while bunch of issues with these hp prebuilts as well.

Never buying prebuilt again. I always use thermal grizzly and a good brand liquid cooler like evga or arctic.
 
Nov 7, 2023 at 10:50 AM Post #2,917 of 3,132
EVGA 3080Ti FTW3
Intel i7-12700K
Corsair Vengeance 32GB 5600
Samsung 980 Pro NVMe 1TB + 2TB SSD
Cooler Master NR200P SFF Case, PSU, CPU Cooler
Lian Li/Noctua Fans
 
Nov 7, 2023 at 1:52 PM Post #2,918 of 3,132
If you have an AMD 7800X, 7900X, or 7950X (not X3D) CPU, or the Intel 12th, 13th, or 14th-gen CPU, they are now designed to purposefully ramp up the clock speeds until the CPU throttles at 100C. This is standard in current design of those CPUs, especially with Intel.
That's why cooling is so important for these newer CPUs. If you have a mega-huge and efficient cooler, then it will maintain the temps better and eke out a couple/few hundred MHz more performance. Then again, if your cooling solution is not efficient, then it will severealy throttle performance. Moreso than even with previous CPUs that weren't designed to boil water at "expected" temperatures.
But these CPUs themselves are "designed" to perform at peak load based on that 100C marker. This is counterintuitive to all CPUs of the past, where performance was set to a specific speed, and temps should rarely exceed 90C. The hotter the chip runs, the less the life of the CPU. With that said, they can still last several years even if they are running "hot". Part of the life will be based on the silicon lottery as well (some will naturally perform better than others, but all should perform within the specs posted by the company).

This attempt between AMD and Intel to "top the list" in performance by overpowering and overheating CPUs has been debated frequently over the last year or so. You can undervolt the CPU (or use "Eco Mode", but it will hamper performance a lot) verrry slightly, and have 85%-95% performance with temps lowered by 12-18C. Also, much much less power consumption. A 13900k at peak uses about 290+ watts @ 100C, but slightly undervolted can reduce that peak load to 220watts @83C with 93% of the performance.

Anyhoo, with that said, I agree @Lindholdt saying that it might be good to re-apply the thermal paste.
Since you have a pre-built, there may be something simple that is hindering performance. I would not say most pre-builts are "reliable" right out of the box, thus a little love and elbow grease could push that machine to new levels of pWn.
I think if I ever got a pre-built, I'd ensure the airflow is good in the case (would never buy a case that had a covered front panel. Ever.), that there is proper negative pressure airflow, and ensure the fans are blowing in the right direction. While doing that, I'd also look to make sure all devices are fully connected, and the GPU is fully locked into place. Then, I would probably apply my own thermal paste to the CPU just to make sure it was done right. Once you take that heatsink off, you'll have to reapply the paste anyway. Simply remove the old paste with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol (from both the CPU and the heatsink plate).
I usually repaste my laptops when I buy them. That's a real pain to do sometimes, but it gives me peace of mind.

Finally, checking BIOS settings is also a good idea. I think your video link earlier is referencing the lack of enabling XMP for the RAM, at the very least. Yes, this happens often with prebuilds. They don't even fix simple settings in the BIOS (and they usually have a very old version of the BIOS). Additionally, they will use one RAM stick instead of two, thus halving the performance of the RAM. Or, they put them into the wrong DIMM bays, so XMP won't enable. Many little things like that can happen.
You know what, my recently issue may have been due to flashing new bios back then. That probably erased the smart profile of the system fans. It's so odd that a bios default setting would be with system fan not being applied a profile.
 
Nov 8, 2023 at 1:12 PM Post #2,920 of 3,132
Don't fret too much about thermal paste. For hardcore overclocking, then any fraction of a degree can make a difference. But if you get a decently rated paste, then you'll be fine. A couple degrees will have no real-world value for 99% of PC users.
I usually use ARCTIC MX-4, because it applies smoothly and easily over the CPU.
The Noctua paste included with their coolers is really good as well, but it's more liquidy and gets messy quick.
 
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Nov 9, 2023 at 11:30 PM Post #2,921 of 3,132
Don't fret too much about thermal paste. For hardcore overclocking, then any fraction of a degree can make a difference. But if you get a decently rated paste, then you'll be fine. A couple degrees will have no real-world value for 99% of PC users.
I usually use ARCTIC MX-4, because it applies smoothly and easily over the CPU.
The Noctua paste included with their coolers is really good as well, but it's more liquidy and gets messy quick.
I'm getting 16% less than typical Cinebench r23 multicore score. My processor tries to peak at the P2 power limit at 241, 200, or 190W, in which some of the cores overheats to 100C, and throttles downward, and then it keeps at 70-80C at 125-130W for the remaining of the test. Does the power output suppose to go higher? Is it only keeping at 120-130W because the software detected that it can't reach higher wattage?

Is Cinebench detecting that my processor can't be pushed with greater power and maintaining at P1 limit? Is this a sign that my cooling isn't adequate and need to pull off and reapply thermal paste to see if it improves?

What thermal paste do you all recommend?
 
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Nov 10, 2023 at 12:29 AM Post #2,922 of 3,132
I'm getting 16% less than typical Cinebench r23 multicore score. My processor tries to peak at the P2 power limit at 241, 200, or 190W, in which some of the cores overheats to 100C, and throttles downward, and then it keeps at 70-80C at 125-130W for the remaining of the test. Does the power output suppose to go higher? Is it only keeping at 120-130W because the software detected that it can reach higher wattage?

Is Cinebench detecting that my processor can't be pushed with greater power and maintaining at P1 limit? Is this a sign that my cooling isn't adequate and need to pull off and reapply thermal paste to see if it improves?

What thermal paste do you all recommend?
Depends on what you want to do.

The thermal pastes with silver in them usually are the most effective for overclocking or heavy duty workloads but I prefer the non conductive stuff for longevity.

The reason why I use thermal grizzly instead of the free included mx-4 with the arctic liquid coolers I buy (8 this year), is because it lasts longer than other thermal pastes I've tried over the years. Some of these pastes dry up after a certain amount of time or high heat exposure.

I don't like using the conductive pastes like mx-4 because a few things could go wrong, if you accidentally get it anywhere or over apply or it dries up and flakes off onto components.
 
Nov 10, 2023 at 12:46 AM Post #2,923 of 3,132
Depends on what you want to do.

The thermal pastes with silver in them usually are the most effective for overclocking or heavy duty workloads but I prefer the non conductive stuff for longevity.

The reason why I use thermal grizzly instead of the free included mx-4 with the arctic liquid coolers I buy (8 this year), is because it lasts longer than other thermal pastes I've tried over the years. Some of these pastes dry up after a certain amount of time or high heat exposure.

I don't like using the conductive pastes like mx-4 because a few things could go wrong, if you accidentally get it anywhere or over apply or it dries up and flakes off onto components.
Jay uses Kingpin extreme, he says it doesn't dry up. I guess the main issue is the paste drying up.

 
Nov 10, 2023 at 10:57 PM Post #2,925 of 3,132
The reason why I use thermal grizzly instead of the free included mx-4 with the arctic liquid coolers I buy (8 this year), is because it lasts longer than other thermal pastes I've tried over the years. Some of these pastes dry up after a certain amount of time or high heat exposure.

I don't like using the conductive pastes like mx-4 because a few things could go wrong, if you accidentally get it anywhere or over apply or it dries up and flakes off onto components.
Lots of posts recommends MX-4 and say it lasts. Also, look at the description of MX-4, not metallic

1699675037626.png

I bought the bracket and the paste. I will try to see if my stock tower fan performs better after reapply, if not, I will go with the Thermalright fan that is very good cost per performance.
 
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