[Triode User]

I have bought, borrowed, begged and made some supplies to compare more fully with the Qutest over the weekend (no batteries, too much faff).

Edit, I have just realised I missed off the SBooster from the photoshoot and it is now sulking in the corner of the room.

 

[Jon L]

0912201035 by drjlo2, on Flickr

Some concentrated comparisons took place.

Audio server.
HDPLEX LPS vs. 12V Li Battery.

With stock DC cable and power cord, HDPLEX sounds less resolving and coarser than battery. However, after DIY'ing a DC cable until it sounded better, which meant starting wtih pure silver but later adding OCC copper to the concoction, and finding a specific sound signature with a particular power cord, the LPS now sounds in general ballpark of battery sound signature. Battery still sound a smidge purer, but LPS does have its own charm of tiny more vocal texture, close enough for me to use the LPS for the music server.

SOtM USB card and DXIO USB-spdif converter.
18650 Li battery vs. various LPS and SMPS in house.

Here, the 18650 battery was found to be irreplaceable in preserving the sparkling purity of sound. I'm not sure if it's the 18650 battery type itself that's the difference or the fact only two 18650 need to be used, resulting in a simple architecture. It could also be that SOtM and DXIO, for whatever reason, benefit more from battery power, being very small, pure-digital devices.

Chord Qutest DAC
AA NiMH battery vs. Allo Shanti LPS

This was the most crucial comparison, since changing 8 batteries every few hours would have been a real bummer. Perhaps this thought acted as a bias, but with stock DC cable and power cord, Allo Shanti had a significantly different sound signature than battery. Shanti was darker, smoother but less resolving than battery. After DIY'ing a better DC cable and also DIY'ing a particular power cord design that pushed the sound signature to a direction I wanted, the Shanti now moved towards the battery sound signature more, i.e. purer, sunnier, more resolving. Images now projected forward easier with more presence. Battery still sounds bit more "fresh" and pure, but Shanti actually seems to have a smidge more low bass kick, so I could settle down with Shanti.

Further Thoughts.

When everything was powered by battery, it was akin to having every light in the living room turned on. Everything was visible and plain as day with ample light bubbling up in every corner. After awhile, though, perhaps things were a bit too present and lit. It was certainly an awesome experience, but with time, the fully-tweaked LPS's introduced just enough shadow and texture to appeal to the emotional side. For my setup and tastes, keeping 18650 batteries and the two LPS's hit the balance I wanted, but obviously YMMV and I may change my mind at any time.

 

[Triode User]

0912201035 by drjlo2, on Flickr

Some concentrated comparisons took place.

Audio server.
HDPLEX LPS vs. 12V Li Battery.

With stock DC cable and power cord, HDPLEX sounds less resolving and coarser than battery. However, after DIY'ing a DC cable until it sounded better, which meant starting wtih pure silver but later adding OCC copper to the concoction, and finding a specific sound signature with a particular power cord, the LPS now sounds in general ballpark of battery sound signature. Battery still sound a smidge purer, but LPS does have its own charm of tiny more vocal texture, close enough for me to use the LPS for the music server.

SOtM USB card and DXIO USB-spdif converter.
18650 Li battery vs. various LPS and SMPS in house.

Here, the 18650 battery was found to be irreplaceable in preserving the sparkling purity of sound. I'm not sure if it's the 18650 battery type itself that's the difference or the fact only two 18650 need to be used, resulting in a simple architecture. It could also be that SOtM and DXIO, for whatever reason, benefit more from battery power, being very small, pure-digital devices.

Chord Qutest DAC
AA NiMH battery vs. Allo Shanti LPS

This was the most crucial comparison, since changing 8 batteries every few hours would have been a real bummer. Perhaps this thought acted as a bias, but with stock DC cable and power cord, Allo Shanti had a significantly different sound signature than battery. Shanti was darker, smoother but less resolving than battery. After DIY'ing a better DC cable and also DIY'ing a particular power cord design that pushed the sound signature to a direction I wanted, the Shanti now moved towards the battery sound signature more, i.e. purer, sunnier, more resolving. Images now projected forward easier with more presence. Battery still sounds bit more "fresh" and pure, but Shanti actually seems to have a smidge more low bass kick, so I could settle down with Shanti.

Further Thoughts.

When everything was powered by battery, it was akin to having every light in the living room turned on. Everything was visible and plain as day with ample light bubbling up in every corner. After awhile, though, perhaps things were a bit too present and lit. It was certainly an awesome experience, but with time, the fully-tweaked LPS's introduced just enough shadow and texture to appeal to the emotional side. For my setup and tastes, keeping 18650 batteries and the two LPS's hit the balance I wanted, but obviously YMMV and I may change my mind at any time.

your investigations are welcome and interesting but at the same time they are intriguing.

Normally I would expect any mention of being ‘fresh‘ or more ‘resolving’ to be associated with noise in the system. But yet it was the battery giving these sound signatures with you. Also you mention the Allo Shanti as being darker and smoother and then you set about trying to get away from that smooth sound by configuring the dc cable.

I was side tracked from my Qutest power supply comparison today but hope to do it tomorrow. However when my friend and I used the same power supplies for the Node 2i streamer (used only as a streamer with external dac) on Friday we were generally chasing the smoothest sound as being the one with the least amount of noise.

This all just goes to show that unless you are there in the room it is very difficult to know exactly what sound was being produced or whether others would agree on the ranking of what was better etc.

Anyway, thanks for the report. I know how time consuming it is to do these things and then more time being needed to write it up.

 

[Jon L]

we were generally chasing the smoothest sound as being the one with the least amount of noise.

Yup, this is the problem with using words to describe sound. Perhaps instead of "darker and smoother," maybe "appears smoother because darker" is more descriptive. Batteries do sound purer but perhaps brighter, with less grain (which maybe was described as texture). Thus tweaked LPS has more texture (liken to grain) while batteries are like polished with finer grit sandpaper. Upon first blush, coarser grain may seem more obvious (aka resolved), but if one looks closer, finer grained batteries have more number of pixels/grains per inch (more resolving). By "fresh," I am attempting to describe something like a clear spring water, which would mean less "stuff" or particles (aka "grain" ?texture).

Tragically, even if two people ARE in the same room, they may use very diffferent words to describe what they hear. Oh, well, such is audiofool's life.

 

[uzi2]

Wasn't it Frank Zappa who said "Writing about music is like dancing about arhitecture" ?

 

[Zzt231gr]

Yup, this is the problem with using words to describe sound. Perhaps instead of "darker and smoother," maybe "appears smoother because darker" is more descriptive. Batteries do sound purer but perhaps brighter, with less grain (which maybe was described as texture). Thus tweaked LPS has more texture (liken to grain) while batteries are like polished with finer grit sandpaper. Upon first blush, coarser grain may seem more obvious (aka resolved), but if one looks closer, finer grained batteries have more number of pixels/grains per inch (more resolving). By "fresh," I am attempting to describe something like a clear spring water, which would mean less "stuff" or particles (aka "grain" ?texture).

Tragically, even if two people ARE in the same room, they may use very diffferent words to describe what they hear. Oh, well, such is audiofool's life.

Thank you again for your time to listen and compare dear friend!

You mentioned batteries sound better but brighter;have you find bass to sound a tad thinner,too?Or the sound being a little thin,making you think that the bass lost a little weight?

 

[Jon L]

You mentioned batteries sound better but brighter;have you find bass to sound a tad thinner,too?Or the sound being a little thin,making you think that the bass lost a little weight?

This is what I wrote above:
"Battery still sounds bit more 'fresh' and pure, but Shanti actually seems to have a smidge more low bass kick, so I could settle down with Shanti."

Good battery seems to have perfectly good bass, but Shanti does have a bit extra oomp and push. This is not the amount of difference to make one bassy vs. thin, but I wonder about those supercaps at Shanti's output, Naturally, next thing to try is some supercaps at battery outputs, so people can feel free to provide links to some suitable supercaps,

 

[uzi2]

This is what I wrote above:
"Battery still sounds bit more 'fresh' and pure, but Shanti actually seems to have a smidge more low bass kick, so I could settle down with Shanti."

Good battery seems to have perfectly good bass, but Shanti does have a bit extra oomp and push. This is not the amount of difference to make one bassy vs. thin, but I wonder about those supercaps at Shanti's output, Naturally, next thing to try is some supercaps at battery outputs, so people can feel free to provide links to some suitable supercaps,

Probably not a rabbit hole worth going down. It is the supercaps that provide the isolation and provide the same function as the batteries in storing the power. In theory it shouldn't matter how you charge either. The supercaps will probably be better equipped to provide instant draws on their power and may sound better than batteries because of this. There are likely to be differences between various supercaps as there would be with different battery types, but it is only n4xNiMh that will provide the required 5V without noisy switching circuitry so a comparison is not possible between battery types.

 

[Triode User]

This is what I wrote above:
"Battery still sounds bit more 'fresh' and pure, but Shanti actually seems to have a smidge more low bass kick, so I could settle down with Shanti."

Good battery seems to have perfectly good bass, but Shanti does have a bit extra oomp and push. This is not the amount of difference to make one bassy vs. thin, but I wonder about those supercaps at Shanti's output, Naturally, next thing to try is some supercaps at battery outputs, so people can feel free to provide links to some suitable supercaps,

When using supercaps you have to consider the method of initial charging. When the supercaps are discharged and a charging voltage is applied to them they in effect short circuit whatever is charging them and it needs to be able to cope with that or limit the current delivery. Imagine just connecting a wire between the plus and negative terminals of your batteries. . . . .

 

[jeremya]

How tolerant is the Qutest 5V input of higher voltages? I happen to have a Farad Super3 that I use to provide 6V to an ultraRendu (with wonderful results. the improved SQ was revelatory) -- but I'm wondering if I can safely experiment by using it to supply power to the Qutest instead.

I wouldn't dare doing this without knowing that Qutest was very tolerant of a steady 6V input, though. I'm not about to burn out (or arbitrarily shorten the lifespan of) my Qutest for the sake of idle curiosity... when it comes time to fully move the supply to Qutest, I can always have Farad re-configure the Super3 for 5V instead.

 

[Triode User]

Upgraded the DC cable on Allo Shanti with VH Audio 18 AWG Unicrystal OCC copper wire in Airlok + Schurter DC plug.

When you did this did you have difficulty desoldering the existing dc cable from the circuit board? I am doing it for a friend and it does not to want to shift for some reason.

 

[Triode User]

I have bought, borrowed, begged and made some supplies to compare more fully with the Qutest over the weekend (no batteries, too much faff).

Edit, I have just realised I missed off the SBooster from the photoshoot and it is now sulking in the corner of the room.

I have realised that it is actually quite difficult to do a meaningful comparison of so many psu at the same time so I am splitting it into a series of smaller shoot outs and hope to get to an eventual winner that way. The first of these is with the Allo Shanti, SBooster with Ultra Mk2 upgrade (and my DIY supercap psu included just for fun).

The selection was partly decided by my friend who owns the Allo wanting it back for his own system to power his two Mutec MC-3+ reclockers. He had really brought it to me because he was not impressed with the captive DC output leads and he had asked me if I would change them for a pair of GX16 so he was free to use other dc cables.

On the face of that the swop should have been simple but Shanto appear to have fixed the dc leads to the pc board with something that is not normal solder. It almost looks like a rivet. Anyway, it required a full dismantling of the Shanti, unbolting the transformer to enable removal of the pc board so that I could drill out whatever it was fixing the factory wire to the boards. It was a pain but only added about an hour. I could have cut the factory dc wires to a short length and soldered them to the GX16 sockets but I like to work on the basis that if a job is worth doing it is worth doing well. This is the Allo with a matching end plate to the original so I was not drilling the original one which was retained for reinstalling if the Shanti is ever sold.



Anyway, to the listening which was done by my friend (Nigel) and me. The Qutest was connected to a Music First Baby Ref V2 pre amp feeding my Pass Labs XA60.8 power amps with Spendor SP200 speakers. First we listened to the Allo Shanti with it’s removed captive dc leads now reattached with a GX16 plug into the new GX16 sockets on the Shanti. I have got used to hearing my Qutest with my SBooster and to me the Shanti seemed to give a harsher and more forward presentation to the treble. Everything was a bit more 'in your face' than I was used to with the SBooster.

Then we swopped over to some MCRU leads recently purchased by Nigel which he specified to be made up with Neotech wire, carbon infused sheathing and an Oyaide DC barrel plug. These cost £80 each for a 1m length.

I must say I was surprised by the extent of the clearly audible difference in sound quality with the upgraded dc cables. The track we were listening to (Confians by Mino Cinelu) has a clear percussive line which can at times stray the wrong side of prominence and mask the other instruments. With the Shanti factory supplied captive lead the sound was indeed straying in that direction but with the Neotech dc lead everything became rather less frenetic and much more pleasant to listen to.

Now that Nigel’s Shanti has the GX16 dc output sockets it was easy to try some more dc cables. I have a Ghent Audio Neotech wired cable with JSSG360 shielding which we plugged in. I have always struggled to see how the JSSG360 shielding could make any difference at all and so it was that there was no audible difference compared to the MCRU version of the Neotech cables.

Next we tried a Sean Jacobs cable that came with my DC4 and usefully had GX16 connectors. This is also wired with Neotech but uses a tight twist of the cables. I personally thought this gave a slight improvement and in future this is how I will build my own dc cables.

We then connected the Qutest to the SBooster with Ultra MkII upgrade. This was better than the Allo Shanti even with the Shanti's upgraded cables and reinforced Nigel’s and my previous conclusion that whilst the Allo Shanti is good value for money the SBooster is the better buy if the budget allows. Everything was a bit calmer and easier to relax into. There was still plenty of detail, indeed probably more real detail than with the Shanti but it was provided in a more subtle way rather than being shouted.

The DIY supercap psu was really only included for Nigel and my amusement because only he and I together with a couple of other friends have one. We both thought that it was much better than the Shanti (with and without upgraded cables) and nearer to the SBooster

Lastly, we swopped to a Sean Jacobs DC4 (with the Sean Jacobs cable) which unsurprisingly trumped the SBooster in all areas but then it does cost about six times as much.

At the end of this little session the conclusion was that the Allo Shanti is good value for money and can certainly be recommended for the budget conscious but for us it was some way behind the SBooster + Ultra Mk2 when powering the Qutest. This gap was narrowed when the Shanti was pimped to give it better DC cables but this is not an easy install and in any case still left the Shanti trailing behind the SBooster.

So, for Nigel and me this was a win for the SBooster plus Ultra Mk2 (the Sean Jacobs and the DIY supercap psu were hors concours).

Round 2 will follow.

 

[Jon L]

I have realised that it is actually quite difficult to do a meaningful comparison of so many psu at the same time so I am splitting it into a series of smaller shoot outs and hope to get to an eventual winner that way. The first of these is with the Allo Shanti, SBooster with Ultra Mk2 upgrade (and my DIY supercap psu included just for fun).

The selection was partly decided by my friend who owns the Allo wanting it back for his own system to power his two Mutec MC-3+ reclockers. He had really brought it to me because he was not impressed with the captive DC output leads and he had asked me if I would change them for a pair of GX16 so he was free to use other dc cables.

On the face of that the swop should have been simple but Shanto appear to have fixed the dc leads to the pc board with something that is not normal solder. It almost looks like a rivet. Anyway, it required a full dismantling of the Shanti, unbolting the transformer to enable removal of the pc board so that I could drill out whatever it was fixing the factory wire to the boards. It was a pain but only added about an hour. I could have cut the factory dc wires to a short length and soldered them to the GX16 sockets but I like to work on the basis that if a job is worth doing it is worth doing well. This is the Allo with a matching end plate to the original so I was not drilling the original one which was retained for reinstalling if the Shanti is ever sold.







Lastly, we swopped to a Sean Jacobs DC4 (with the Sean Jacobs cable) which unsurprisingly trumped the SBooster in all areas but then it does cost about six times as much.

Yikes, I didn't realize the Sean Jacobs costs that much.
Sbooster Ultra MkII setup seems about $460, so the $160 Shanti is a nice bargain.
Are you guys plugging the power supplies straight to the wall or using a power conditioner of some sort?

In my setup, Shanti becomes "good enough" for Raal SR1a only after I made a custom star-quad power cable to synergize with its sonic qualities and plugging it into a Liebert power regenerator.

 

[Triode User]

Yikes, I didn't realize the Sean Jacobs costs that much.
Sbooster Ultra MkII setup seems about $460, so the $160 Shanti is a nice bargain.
Are you guys plugging the power supplies straight to the wall or using a power conditioner of some sort?

In my setup, Shanti becomes "good enough" for Raal SR1a only after I made a custom star-quad power cable to synergize with its sonic qualities and plugging it into a Liebert power regenerator.

The different prices in different countries make it difficult to compare. In the UK the Allo Shanti delivered costs about £180 UKP ie about $228 USD. If you are buying it for $160 USD then that is cheaper than we can buy it.

The SBooster in the UK is £330 UKP delivered and the Ultra MkII costs £90 UKP delivered. The main sonic advantage comes with the SBooster itself and the Ultra is then a marginal gain in addition IMO. So if possible I would suggest going looking first at the bare SBooster.

If you need all that stuff to make a Shanti 'good enough' then maybe the Sbooster is the better option because to my ears it is way better than the Shanti and I personally would always want to change the Shanti DC cable. Sure the Shanti is cheap but to my ears that is reflected on the sound of the Qutest with it, especially with the stock captive DC cables.

The Sean Jacobs DC4 is not aimed at the Qutest and is more appropriate for powering Dave. That is why I described it as being hors concours in the test. I have previously borrowed a Sean Jacobs DC2 to use with the Qutest and I would put it at somewhere between the Shanti and SBooster. It is not made anymore but its value is probably about £120UKP.

I run all my hifi from a 3kVA PliXir balanced mains transformer. I have not heard any improvement with it to the DACs but is does improve my power amps. I did own a PS Audio P10 but did not like the sound with it and so sold it.

 

[RobertSM]

Love my SBooster w/Ultra MkII for Qutest. A great pairing.