[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSikorski Mine works well with the tread in the case. I used the smallest case that I could get away with.

ooo I like it!

 

[The Monkey]

What do you guys use to ensure that your clipped leads on the bottom of the boards don't touch the metal on the bottom of the case?

 

[n_maher]

I generally line the bottom of the case with extra thick electrical tape that I got at Home Depot as shown in this picture:

Nate

 

[The Monkey]

Perfect, thanks Nate.

so I've decided to go with the Tread and the battery drawers. Why not?

 

[Pars]

3M makes a vinyl repair tape that is about twice as thick as most electrical tape I've seen. It comes in various colors, including clear (which is what I use) and can be found in hardware stores (the Ace Hdwr. around here carry it), etc. It comes in 1" and 2" or so widths IIRC... could be 1 1/2" and 3", don't remember off hand.

 

[mono]

There is no need to use the Elpac with the Tread. You could of course, if you were in a pinch like nuclear holocaust and people are getting killed over wall-warts, but in these civil times it would be better to save the Elpac for some other use and grab any random $2 wall-wart, AC or DC, that puts out at least 200mA (for some margin) and a few volts above the target regulated voltage, then put that before the tread. The whole point of a fully populated tread is that there isn't anything more needed but the transformer.

 

[SPL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSikorski Mine works well with the tread in the case. I used the smallest case that I could get away with.

Which model/size case is that? I'd like to use the same with my Pimeta/Tread (if I ever finish it, that is...)
Thx.

 

[WSikorski]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Monkey What do you guys use to ensure that your clipped leads on the bottom of the boards don't touch the metal on the bottom of the case?

I drilled the front panel to give me the clearance needed and lined the area beneath the board with a PDA protector sheet. The tread is attached with some 3M double sided auto trim tape.

 

[WSikorski]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPL Which model/size case is that? I'd like to use the same with my Pimeta/Tread (if I ever finish it, that is...) Thx.

I believe that it is the Hammond 1455K1201BK 4.72x3.07x1.69. I had to relocate the front cap in order to fit the Neutrik headphone jack.

 

[rsabo]

Since I really don't want to order from Mouser for just one part, would anyone mind telling me if this jack would be a proper match with this power supply? I'm fairly certain it is, I just want confirmation so I don't end up with one of those head-banging "do'h" moments.

edit: fixed URLs

 

[n_maher]

Shoud be the right one, just look at the catalog page for the jack and you'll see that the plug that it mates with is a 5.5/2.1 male which appears to be what the power supply comes with. Takes a little while to figure it all out but if I can do it anyone can

. But if it were me I'd go with the SC1049-ND as it has solder lug terminals instead of ones made for a PCB. Not that you can't use the 47 it'll just be a little more difficult to solder to. Also, bear in mind that if you're using this jack with a metal enclosure it might be a good idea to drop back and punt and look for an isolated jack.

HTH,

Nate

 

[MASantos]

These jacks have an optional washer to isolate them. The part number is in the jack's datasheet or in switchcraft's site.

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos These jacks have an optional washer to isolate them. The part number is in the jack's datasheet or in switchcraft's site.

Manuel, I saw that but didn't see the washer listed for sale by Digikey and I looked through a fair bit of the catalog on this one. So while such a washer may exist it didn't seem like it was available from the same source as the jack.

Nate

 

[The Monkey]

I just realized something: I have no idea how to properly wire up the Tread + the Bulgins. I understand how the lugs on the DC jack work but from there I get confused.

i'd appreciate it if someone could walk me through how to run the wires from jack to tread to batteries to board.

 

[rsabo]

Urgh, I should be asleep...

Thanks a lot, Nate. I found the washers needed to isolate the 1049 on Allied, which I was ordering from anyway. Allied part number is 932-0174.

The Monkey: Tangent has something similar in his CMoy tutorial about wiring a DC source and batteries. It involved a couple of diodes set up as an OR gate. One problem that I remember is the voltage drop from the diodes. Hope this helps.