pimeta or millet for low impedence cans?
Mar 12, 2006 at 9:36 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 21

coolshot

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im looking for amp for my soon to be audio technica cans. Im looking for the best syngery to get what like out of my amp. Im looking for good detail without sacraficing bass. hd595 is great but a little more wouldnt hurt. I love koss ksc-75/sportapro bass but want more impact like my a500. I hate hate siblence and harsh highs but i love detail of symbles and the like. basically im trying to get better sound without sacraficing what i already got thought the ranges.

im also looking for a builder. I pm'ed misterx and he doesnt do millets. If i go the pimeta route tho im in good hands. Anyone know of a good millet builder. Im looking for one in a hammond case,clear top, blue led tube mod,diamond buffers, etc for <$250 powered by a walwart.
 
Mar 12, 2006 at 2:44 PM Post #2 of 21

jbloudg20

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolshot
im looking for amp for my soon to be audio technica cans. Im looking for the best syngery to get what like out of my amp. Im looking for good detail without sacraficing bass. hd595 is great but a little more wouldnt hurt. I love koss ksc-75/sportapro bass but want more impact like my a500. I hate hate siblence and harsh highs but i love detail of symbles and the like. basically im trying to get better sound without sacraficing what i already got thought the ranges.

im also looking for a builder. I pm'ed misterx and he doesnt do millets. If i go the pimeta route tho im in good hands. Anyone know of a good millet builder. Im looking for one in a hammond case,clear top, blue led tube mod,diamond buffers, etc for <$250 powered by a walwart.



You can always contact Rockhopper Audio, but I doubt you sill get a full decked out Millet for that price, from anyone.
 
Mar 12, 2006 at 3:14 PM Post #3 of 21

n_maher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolshot
im also looking for a builder. I pm'ed misterx and he doesnt do millets. If i go the pimeta route tho im in good hands. Anyone know of a good millet builder. Im looking for one in a hammond case,clear top, blue led tube mod,diamond buffers, etc for <$250 powered by a walwart.


Don't take this the wrong way but I think you're being a bit unrealistic about the price you're willing to pay for your amp. The amp you have spec'd above has nearly $200 in parts alone and it seems unfair to expect someone to build it for free.

To answer your original question either amp should be fine driving low impedence loads, they are both buffered desings - in fact they could potentially use the same buffers so their current capacity is probably the same. I cannot comment on synergy since I've never heard any of the AT cans.

Nate
 
Mar 12, 2006 at 6:40 PM Post #4 of 21

coolshot

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so what is the realistic price for something like that on a millet? people were saying 150-250 so i assumed that was the selling prices, i guess thats the building price.
 
Mar 12, 2006 at 7:07 PM Post #5 of 21

rickcr42

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Quote:

The amp you have spec'd above has nearly $200 in parts alone and it seems unfair to expect someone to build it for free.


I get $50-$200/hr locally depending on what it is I am custom building or repairing.
Simple audio "widget" in a box and it is the low end.Fully customised "build to suit" gear requiring some actual research and real design work or a vintage Juke Box resto and it is the high end price plus parts markup
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time IS money if that time for someone else as mercenary as that may sound
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Mar 12, 2006 at 7:22 PM Post #6 of 21

n_maher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolshot
so what is the realistic price for something like that on a millet? people were saying 150-250 so i assumed that was the selling prices, i guess thats the building price.


On rare occasion you might come across a slightly used unit in the for sale forums here that might sell for the cost of parts only. For anything custom or build to suit you should expect to pay someone something, as to how much that is I have no idea. Stephen of Rockhopper audio builds a nice Millett (the only "commercial" Millett for under $600) and he does custom work so I'd suggest contacting him and discussing the amp that you want.
Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42
time IS money if that time for someone else as mercenary as that may sound


Not mercenary in my book, just reality.
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Mar 13, 2006 at 6:08 AM Post #9 of 21

fewtch

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Seems to me the Pimeta would be the "cleaner sounding" (solid state) option, and with the possibility of opamp rolling... Millet will give you a warmer tube sound that really can't be changed like the Pimeta can with different opamps. Depends on what you're looking for sound-wise.
 
Mar 13, 2006 at 7:07 AM Post #10 of 21

Teerawit

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Quote:

Originally Posted by fewtch
Millet will give you a warmer tube sound that really can't be changed like the Pimeta can with different opamps.



The Millett can be tube-rolled (yes that's Millett as in Pete Millett, not millet as in the grain
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I'd expect to pay around $300 for a custom amp with those specs built just for you
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Mar 13, 2006 at 7:37 AM Post #11 of 21

kramer5150

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I find my pimeta too aggressive for my Grados, unless Im using a warmer more colored source.
Millet is my preference, generally.

Garrett
 
Mar 15, 2006 at 10:32 PM Post #12 of 21

mono

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolshot
u mean this one?
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167810

yeah i like it but it has steps and that thing will take up too much space around my desk. looking for one that is walwart powered and maybe save 75+ bucks on it.




As others noted, $250 is pushing it, likely unrealistic. It also seems a bit of a mismatch to pay $250 or more and only have a wallwart for power. Even so, you can't just think "$2 wart", they're typically $30 plus s/h for an Elpac. That is already as costly but inferior to a Tread in a separate case. If there were no point to it, everyone else wouldn't be using better supplies on >$100 amps, they'd just buy an Elpac too.

However, I'd expect Pimeta to be more forgiving of power noise, it seems the only choice given your criteria of the wart and the cost. Sound isn't a factor at all in this, then, though it's not that Pimeta sounds bad, on the contrary but since there is no mention of a budget increase or room for the amp (since the power IS the amp space, too), you have already limited the options. One option still open would be a Pimeta plus a Tread board in one case and the wart front-end for the Tread. It fits the criteria and will be better than amp by wallwart alone.

Being a DIY thread, you might consider building your own Pimeta with the default parts values. Tangent has done an outstanding job of making this a good project for those starting out, little issues like interpreting a schematic, knowing which way to orient an opamp in a socket, orientation of diodes, and soldering skills are a reasonable learning curve. Plus, the whole project could end up under $100 and if you do a reasonable job building it and later want to sell it, you have a forum here for that.
 
Mar 15, 2006 at 10:50 PM Post #13 of 21

dsavitsk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mono
One option still open would be a Pimeta plus a Tread board in one case and the wart front-end for the Tread. It fits the criteria and will be better than amp by wallwart alone.


Could do the same with a Millett

Quote:

Originally Posted by mono
Being a DIY thread, you might consider building your own Pimeta with the default parts values. Tangent has done an outstanding job of making this a good project for those starting out, little issues like interpreting a schematic, knowing which way to orient an opamp in a socket, orientation of diodes, and soldering skills are a reasonable learning curve. Plus, the whole project could end up under $100 and if you do a reasonable job building it and later want to sell it, you have a forum here for that.


This also goes for the Millett except that it is probably easier to build, though it is slightly harder to gather the parts for and slightly more expensive (and while the parts list and instructions are well done, they were not done by Tangent in this case.)

At any rate, building it is the correct answer which ever you choose.
 
Mar 16, 2006 at 12:30 AM Post #14 of 21

coolshot

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the prob with DIY is that i only have limited experience with soldering from my highschool electronics class, soldring simple kits like strobe lights and the sort. Everyone says that your first amp should be a cmoy then move up the ladder. This will only add to cost as im paying to learn with parts and tools that i dont have yet. I know i could sell to recoup but i feel just jumping into what i want now first and have it done right the first time would be my best bet. I will look into tread to see how much it would add.
 
Mar 16, 2006 at 12:54 AM Post #15 of 21

dsavitsk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by coolshot
Everyone says that your first amp should be a cmoy then move up the ladder.


I don't say that. The first thing I ever built was a Millett on the original board. My second project was a Pimeta followed by a couple of DACs, power amps, and a discrete preamp. I didn't build a cmoy until after all that, and then only because I was curious about it. The CMoy is more difficult in terms of soldering than either the Pimeta or the Millett.
 

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