[slindeman]

Here's some pictures of my recently complete META42. Nothing new really except for the rotary switch for the modified linkwitz crossfeed. I had to mount the crossfeed sideways because I measured once, rather than twice, before ordering the case.

I got the solid machined aluminum knobs for $1.25 each at a local surplus store, so that saved me some cash. It is the v1 META42 board and has stacked EL2002s for output, AD8610s for the input. Panasonic for all caps, Polypropylene film and foil for crossfeed, FC series for PS Electrolytics, Metallized Polyester and PPS film for bypassing. The two resistors standing a bit higher are to set the gain, and will be shortened once I decide for certain on the gain. The case is plastic, 5x5x2, the wiring is Teflon jacketed silver plated copper. This was fun to build and is a tune up for a more ambitious META42 to come. The sound is incredible, as expected. The total parts cost was about $150. This is the first amp I've owned that has driven the HD600 like it should be driven.

 

[morsel]

Beautiful worksmanship, Scott.

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Beautiful amp there Scott. I really think those big knobs make it look like it could do some serious damage to some headphones. Is that crossfeed switch to vary the crossfeed, or just turn it off and on?

Drop a few dabs of paint on the screws to match them to the front panel's color scheme and she'd be perfect.

 

[jpelg]

Scott -

That is beautiful. A class act, all the way. I'm glad to hear "she" sounds as good as she looks.

 

[scottder]

Looks great, What enclosure is that and what are you using for a PS/Wallwart for that particular setup?

 

[Kal525]

very nice work, where did you get those rubber ends for the hookupwires? Those look very nice. Do they really help?

 

[slindeman]

Thanks for the nice comments everyone.

Quote:

Is that crossfeed switch to vary the crossfeed, or just turn it off and on?

It does also vary the crossfeed. There is bypass and two levels of crossfeed. See my other recent post for more details about using the rotary switch with the linkwitz crossfeed.

Quote:

I really think those big knobs make it look like it could do some serious damage to some headphones.

Lol, yes. That's what more amps need, lots and lots of large knobs.

Quote:

Looks great, What enclosure is that and what are you using for a PS/Wallwart for that particular setup?

Its the Pac-tec LH series, the cost was about $9. For now I've been using a 12V regulated filtered Radioshack wallwart. I may buy the Elpac 24V but I haven't decided. This amp will eventually go to work where ambient noise makes it so I may not even be able to tell the difference. I do want to try some other opamps, however, and may need the 24V to do that properly since they would be ones that require more voltage (AD843, OPA637). I also had an OPA2132P in this for initial testing, and it sounded better than I'd ever heard it, but still way behind the AD8610s.

Quote:

where did you get those rubber ends for the hookupwires? Those look very nice. Do they really help?

That's 3-1 Polyolefin heatshrink tubing in a yellowish/orange color to match the orange hookup wire. You can buy this at Mouser/Digikey, or your local electronics supply store. Primarily it is to make it look neat and clean, but it also offers protection from oxidation, and prevents unwanted shorts from ever having a chance to occur. I hadn't done it on my other projects, but it's so easy that I'll keep doing it. I just borrow the Heat Gun from my work and it makes it very easy.

 

[scottder]

Quote:

Originally posted by slindeman Its the Pac-tec LH series, the cost was about $9. For now I've been using a 12V regulated filtered Radioshack wallwart. I may buy the Elpac 24V but I haven't decided. This amp will eventually go to work where ambient noise makes it so I may not even be able to tell the difference. I do want to try some other opamps, however, and may need the 24V to do that properly since they would be ones that require more voltage (AD843, OPA637). I also had an OPA2132P in this for initial testing, and it sounded better than I'd ever heard it, but still way behind the AD8610s.

Will have to check that enclosure out, looks like a tight fit, but is that a bad thing?

any reason you used the AD8610s instead of a single AD8620? Just curious.

Scott

PS - Any idea what the model number of the Wallwart is?

 

[CaptBubba]

Quote:

Originally posted by slindeman That's 3-1 Polyolefin heatshrink tubing in a yellowish/orange color to match the orange hookup wire. You can buy this at Mouser/Digikey, or your local electronics supply store. Primarily it is to make it look neat and clean, but it also offers protection from oxidation, and prevents unwanted shorts from ever having a chance to occur. I hadn't done it on my other projects, but it's so easy that I'll keep doing it. I just borrow the Heat Gun from my work and it makes it very easy.

I just use a hair dryer, very quick and very easy. I used to use this, but stopped for some reason, it looks so much better than open connection si may just start doing it again!

 

[Budgie]

Beutiful job on the internal wiring. Nice and neat

 

[slindeman]

Quote:

Originally posted by scottder Will have to check that enclosure out, looks like a tight fit, but is that a bad thing? any reason you used the AD8610s instead of a single AD8620? Just curious. PS - Any idea what the model number of the Wallwart is?

The LH series has larger enclosures in it, I'm just too dumb to buy the right size.

I used AD8610s because I had them. I'd rather use AD8620 because its one less chip to solder, but I didn't want to waste the 8610s. The Radioshack 12V wallwart is 273-1667, the Elpac 24V is Mouser 680-WM080-1950-760.

 

[scottder]

Quote:

Originally posted by slindeman The LH series has larger enclosures in it, I'm just too dumb to buy the right size. I used AD8610s because I had them. I'd rather use AD8620 because its one less chip to solder, but I didn't want to waste the 8610s. The Radioshack 12V wallwart is 273-1667, the Elpac 24V is Mouser 680-WM080-1950-760.

Sounds like a good enough reason to me.

Thanks for the info.

One more dump question, what type of connector is that in the case that connects to the wallwart. Or does it vary with the wallwart?

Scott

 

[slindeman]

Yeah it varies with the wallwart. The Radioshack wallwart lets you choose from any of the connectors they sell. You just go to the wall of connectors and pick one when you buy it. They call it adaptaplug. Thus you can buy other sizes and shapes of connectors as needed and swap them out.

I'm pretty sure the Elpac uses a 5.5mm Outside Diameter, 2.5mm Inside Diameter DC power plug. Check with someone that owns one to be sure, or check their website. It's one of the standard DC power plugs. Radioshack sells the jack for that connector, so that was what I used, because I knew I might buy that Elpac wallwart in the future. I didn't write the part number down, but they have it in-store. I then bought the proper adaptaplug to allow me to use the Radioshack Wallwart with the amp. It was a couple of bucks. Hope this helps.

 

[Gariver]

Congratulations! Everything is soooooo neat and perfect! WOW!