j-curve
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2002
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It's a wonder that the old ED-1 Stax equalizer disappeared completely and modern Stax amps don't have a "diffuse EQ" button to fill in the upper mids and tame the unbridled highs. Many audiophiles reject equalizers for various reasons, some of which relate not to the EQ circuit itself (or algorithm) but to the surrounding "glue" of op-amps, transistors, A/D and D/A converters etc. The only "passive" EQ I'm aware of is horribly expensive and is not actually 100% passive - it contains some amplifying glue to restore the signal to a usable level.
Here's a circuit which aims to equalize Stax headphones and has no active components. You would need two of these for stereo
:-
Some details and specifications:-
The circuit operates at line level.
Input impedance: 10k ohms. (Can be driven with low impedance sources too).
Output impedance: 10k ohms. (Easily drives a Stax amplifier with a 50k ohm input impedance).
Insertion loss: 13dB (from a 10k ohm source when driving a 50k ohm load).
The insertion loss means you have to turn up the volume a bit. Stax systems usually reach "loud" by 12-o-clock so this shouldn't be a problem.
Construction
The resistors and capacitors are shelf items.
The inductors L1, L2 are the trick. Anyone notice anything unusual about them?
[Hint: Look up the values of inductors you might typically find in a speaker crossover.] Needless to say, these suckers are not shelf items! It would be nice if they were air-cored but some ferrite may be necessary, especially for L1, where I estimate 250 metres of wire could be necessary otherwise. This is not something you want to try and wind by hand. If you can locate a reel of enamelled wire with both ends of the copper sticking out then you should be so lucky. The good news is you don't need fencing wire for these - even as fine as SWG 34 (or AWG 31 = 0.23mm diameter) should be OK, as the impedances are quite high and a few ohms of resistance won't upset things.
The inductors should be placed well apart from each other in a metal box. If you don't have an inductance meter (who does?), the tank circuits L1-C1 and L2-C2 can be tuned with an audio oscillator and a multimeter. The inductors should be in place in the box when you do this.
L1-C1 tunes to 3.4kHz.
L2-C2 tunes to 10.5kHz.
If they oscillate at a lower frequency, the inductance is too high and a few turns have to come off the inductor.
Obviously, I haven't built mine yet, and it could be a while. Is anyone willing to give it a go? Any comments, suggestions?
Acknowledgements: The frequency adjustments for this design were chosen on the basis of three sources, as follows:-
1. My "DIY Response Plots" measurements and listening tests on SRS-2020, SRS-3030 and SRS-4040 systems.
2. A Lambda response plot produced by Moller et al. from the article "Transfer Characteristics of Headphones Measured on Human Ears", Journal of the Audio Engineering Society, v43, #4, April 1995, p215.
3. Comments by Jorg Stumpp, a.k.a. "stu" on Headwize regarding equalisation of Stax headphones and the ED-1 equaliser.
Keywords: filter boost cut treble etch
Here's a circuit which aims to equalize Stax headphones and has no active components. You would need two of these for stereo
Some details and specifications:-
The circuit operates at line level.
Input impedance: 10k ohms. (Can be driven with low impedance sources too).
Output impedance: 10k ohms. (Easily drives a Stax amplifier with a 50k ohm input impedance).
Insertion loss: 13dB (from a 10k ohm source when driving a 50k ohm load).
The insertion loss means you have to turn up the volume a bit. Stax systems usually reach "loud" by 12-o-clock so this shouldn't be a problem.
Construction
The resistors and capacitors are shelf items.
The inductors L1, L2 are the trick. Anyone notice anything unusual about them?
The inductors should be placed well apart from each other in a metal box. If you don't have an inductance meter (who does?), the tank circuits L1-C1 and L2-C2 can be tuned with an audio oscillator and a multimeter. The inductors should be in place in the box when you do this.
L1-C1 tunes to 3.4kHz.
L2-C2 tunes to 10.5kHz.
If they oscillate at a lower frequency, the inductance is too high and a few turns have to come off the inductor.
Obviously, I haven't built mine yet, and it could be a while. Is anyone willing to give it a go? Any comments, suggestions?
Acknowledgements: The frequency adjustments for this design were chosen on the basis of three sources, as follows:-
1. My "DIY Response Plots" measurements and listening tests on SRS-2020, SRS-3030 and SRS-4040 systems.
2. A Lambda response plot produced by Moller et al. from the article "Transfer Characteristics of Headphones Measured on Human Ears", Journal of the Audio Engineering Society, v43, #4, April 1995, p215.
3. Comments by Jorg Stumpp, a.k.a. "stu" on Headwize regarding equalisation of Stax headphones and the ED-1 equaliser.
Keywords: filter boost cut treble etch