[sp33ls]

My WHAMMY has some extra $$ put into the components because I wanted to see how far Wayne's design could go. In particular, I found that both the shielded, medical-grade IEC inlet and the Sparkos voltage regs were worthwhile as I don't hear any noise floor, even with the pot position fully open.

I recently swapped the OPA828 for a Sparkos SS3602, and wow... I think anybody would be perfectly satisfied with the performance of this amp. I don't think it's holding back any of my TOTL cans at all.
Sure, if you're spending Susvara-levels of cash and need a ton of juice, then you're probably going to exploring other options (I'd recommend a first watt design with VFETs in those scenarios.)

I've found the WHAMMY to be quite sensitive to the subtle sonic differences of opamps. Also, be sure to check the datasheet of your opamp(s), as most call for a bypass capacitor (usually 0.1uF) across Vcc/Vee and GND.

I'm currently listening with my ZMF Atrium and it sounds so punchy, natural and "analog." My OTL may inch it out in soundstage and texture, but only just.

Highly recommended for anyone who wants a SS amp and doesn't want to surpass the $3k+ mark for marginal gains.

 

[chaotic_angel]

My WHAMMY has some extra $$ put into the components because I wanted to see how far Wayne's design could go. In particular, I found that both the shielded, medical-grade IEC inlet and the Sparkos voltage regs were worthwhile as I don't hear any noise floor, even with the pot position fully open.

I recently swapped the OPA828 for a Sparkos SS3602, and wow... I think anybody would be perfectly satisfied with the performance of this amp. I don't think it's holding back any of my TOTL cans at all.
Sure, if you're spending Susvara-levels of cash and need a ton of juice, then you're probably going to exploring other options (I'd recommend a first watt design with VFETs in those scenarios.)

I've found the WHAMMY to be quite sensitive to the subtle sonic differences of opamps. Also, be sure to check the datasheet of your opamp(s), as most call for a bypass capacitor (usually 0.1uF) across Vcc/Vee and GND.

I'm currently listening with my ZMF Atrium and it sounds so punchy, natural and "analog." My OTL may inch it out in soundstage and texture, but only just.

Highly recommended for anyone who wants a SS amp and doesn't want to surpass the $3k+ mark for marginal gains.

Hi, have you heard about Burson's V6 series? i am using V6 Vivid & Classic and yes there are better imaging, resolution compared to Muses02.

 

[sp33ls]

Hi, have you heard about Burson's V6 series? i am using V6 Vivid & Classic and yes there are better imaging, resolution compared to Muses02.

Indeed, I have. I actually included either one in the builds I pulled together for my brothers.

I was very impressed by both, and surprised by how much they differed.

I recall using the Vivid in the whammy paired with the Sony Z1R and experienced just how much the opamp influenced the sound. The Z1R is known for having wonky treble, but it hadn't really bothered me. With the Vivid/Z1R, the sibilance was almost unbearable.
Swapped in the Classic and the synergy was awesome.

That said, the Bursons are great options for discrete opamps and the WHAMMY really allows one up hear into the nuances with different opamps.

I used to think people who "rolled" opamps had lost it because I could never tell a difference...

 

[chaotic_angel]

Indeed, I have. I actually included either one in the builds I pulled together for my brothers.

I was very impressed by both, and surprised by how much they differed.

I recall using the Vivid in the whammy paired with the Sony Z1R and experienced just how much the opamp influenced the sound. The Z1R is known for having wonky treble, but it hadn't really bothered me. With the Vivid/Z1R, the sibilance was almost unbearable.
Swapped in the Classic and the synergy was awesome.

That said, the Bursons are great options for discrete opamps and the WHAMMY really allows one up hear into the nuances with different opamps.

I used to think people who "rolled" opamps had lost it because I could never tell a difference...

so, Sparkos over the V6 Classic if you have comparison please?

 

[sp33ls]

so, Sparkos over the V6 Classic if you have comparison please?

Depends on what you're trying to optimize based on your chain.

The V6 classic is a bit more "euphonic", the Sparkos a bit more detailed while still being "analog" in its delivery.

If you already have the Classic, is it worth switching out for the Sparkos? Nah, probably not -- unless you're looking for that similar, organic approach but with a tad more transparency. It's definitely not "night and day."

Note: this is going off of memory, I no longer have the Classic in house to compare.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you ever do a comparison yourself.

 

[chaotic_angel]

Depends on what you're trying to optimize based on your chain.

The V6 classic is a bit more "euphonic", the Sparkos a bit more detailed while still being "analog" in its delivery.

If you already have the Classic, is it worth switching out for the Sparkos? Nah, probably not -- unless you're looking for that similar, organic approach but with a tad more transparency. It's definitely not "night and day."

Note: this is going off of memory, I no longer have the Classic in house to compare.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you ever do a comparison yourself.

Thanks indeed.

 

[penmarker]

Do your cases has ventilation holes? Do note the Burson Supreme Sound Opamps have a max operating temp range of 52 degrees celsius (125.6 F) a member has already toasted their opamp though I don't remember whether it was a V5 or V6.
Normal solid state components usually have higher max operating temps - some caps range between 80 to 100 celsius, transistors can sustain at 70 C, etc - but since the Burson opamps are discrete circuits encased in a container, they'll probably produce their own heat so a lower ambient temp is required.

 

[Stringcrazy]

Hi All, I built a Whammy a couple of years ago now, which has been in almost daily use, running with a Burson V6 vivid.
Other than the opamp everything is as supplied by diy audio.
Recently, I have been getting the urge to rebuild with an aim of using a higher grade of components. However, I am very much an amateur DIYer and don't really have any knowledge of electrical components with regard to quality etc..
I'm not looking to start debates, but if anyone has some recommendations on what they may have used and liked I'd be grateful.

 

[JamieMcC]

If I was to build another Whammy I'd probably build it in a larger chassis and add some switchable inputs and a RCA pre outs as the Whammy also makes for a fine preamp.

If you have the bog standard wire wounds I don't know what comes with the kit Vishay rn 55 or 60 resistors or Kiwame/Koa Speers would be the next step. If you wanted to really go to town then also Audio Note Tantalum or Takman carbon film resistors for locations in the signal path would be a option if the holes on the PCB are large enough.

The Alps blue volume pot next relocating it off the PCB opens up lots of higher quality resistive pot options from the likes of TDK, Audionote etc or make the jump to a stepped alternator. Again mounting off the PCB opens up lots of output capacitor options many of the premium offerings just won't fit in the space on the PCB. But here's the thing if your DC offsets are low with your source you can go without the output capacitors and use some copper jumpers instead which will sound better than any capacitor. If this is the case with your current Whammy give it a try and use the money saved on quality caps on the next build for those nice resistors or better volume pot.

Hopefully others will suggest some different options for you to mull over.

Check out Highflyin9's build for some tips

http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/05/whammy-pass-labs-diy-headphone-amp.html?m=1

 

[Stringcrazy]

If I was to build another Whammy I'd probably build it in a larger chassis and add some switchable inputs and a RCA pre outs as the Whammy also makes for a fine preamp.

If you have the bog standard wire wounds I don't know what comes with the kit Vishay rn 55 or 60 resistors or Kiwame/Koa Speers would be the next step. If you wanted to really go to town then also Audio Note Tantalum or Takman carbon film resistors for locations in the signal path would be a option if the holes on the PCB are large enough.

The Alps blue volume pot next relocating it off the PCB opens up lots of higher quality resistive pot options from the likes of TDK, Audionote etc or make the jump to a stepped alternator. Again mounting off the PCB opens up lots of output capacitor options many of the premium offerings just won't fit in the space on the PCB. But here's the thing if your DC offsets are low with your source you can go without the output capacitors and use some copper jumpers instead which will sound better than any capacitor. If this is the case with your current Whammy give it a try and use the money saved on quality caps on the next build for those nice resistors or better volume pot.

Hopefully others will suggest some different options for you to mull over.

Check out Highflyin9's build for some tips

http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/05/whammy-pass-labs-diy-headphone-amp.html?m=1

In depth and helpful answer - thank you!

 

[sp33ls]

On top of that, I highly recommend using Sparkos discrete voltage regulators (as well as their discrete opamp).
My WHAMMY is dead silent -- no discernible noise floor even with the volume in the max position.
I think the combination of these voltage regs plus the medical-grade IEC module is mostly responsible for silent noise floor.

So, my build used:

• Shielded Medical grade IEC
• Sparkos discrete regs & opamp
• WIMA film, especially for opamp bypass caps (0.1uF on Vcc & Vee)
• Panasonic ecaps for PSU decoupling, Elna Silmic II for rest
• Custom, pure silver hookup wire
• Schottky diodes for rectification

Otherwise, I'm using the diyaudio store chassis and the recommended Neutrik switching jack so I can use it as a preamp as well. I believe you can add slightly taller heatsinks with this case, and that'd be the only thing I'd improve over mine.

That, and maybe a better pot, but the ALPS is still very good.

 

[Stringcrazy]

On top of that, I highly recommend using Sparkos discrete voltage regulators (as well as their discrete opamp).
My WHAMMY is dead silent -- no discernible noise floor even with the volume in the max position.
I think the combination of these voltage regs plus the medical-grade IEC module is mostly responsible for silent noise floor.

So, my build used:

• Shielded Medical grade IEC
• Sparkos discrete regs & opamp
• WIMA film, especially for opamp bypass caps (0.1uF on Vcc & Vee)
• Panasonic ecaps for PSU decoupling, Elna Silmic II for rest
• Custom, pure silver hookup wire
• Schottky diodes for rectification

Otherwise, I'm using the diyaudio store chassis and the recommended Neutrik switching jack so I can use it as a preamp as well. I believe you can add slightly taller heatsinks with this case, and that'd be the only thing I'd improve over mine.

That, and maybe a better pot, but the ALPS is still very good.

Thank you.

 

[Somek]

Friends!
We are excited to share my review of the Whammy. Feel free to ask questions if you have any

https://www.ear-fidelity.com/whammy-review/

 

[chaotic_angel]

Friends!
We are excited to share my review of the Whammy. Feel free to ask questions if you have any

https://www.ear-fidelity.com/whammy-review/

Very handsome Whammy, cheers

Ted

 

[Jbucla2005]

I'm selling my WHAMMY - if anyone's interested, pm me.