Opera Audio LP2.0 Turntable

Oct 17, 2006 at 9:34 PM Post #47 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
I decided to buy parts to upgrade the Rega arm.

I got the Mitchell technoweight and a VTA adjuster and I am going to rewire the arm since the current wiring is crap....



Seems like a plan.Have you mounted a cartridge yet?
 
Oct 18, 2006 at 4:34 PM Post #49 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
can someone please explain all this stuff about weight and gain and capacitance and how it affects choosing a tone arm and cartridge


Check the vinyl asylum over on audio asylum, but basically you need to know the mass of the arm and cartridge and the compliance of the cartridge. From there, you calculate the resonant frequency of the total mass, targeting 8-12Hz (IIRC) to get it below 20Hz but above rumble or record warp typical frequency (all of this is from memory tho). Do a search there for "compliance" and it should lead you to the formulas, etc. Looks like a nice table!
 
Oct 19, 2006 at 4:55 AM Post #50 of 58
will do, thanks for the suggestion...

i just finished fixing the umbilical cord for the pre-amp.... gonna test it tomorrow.... i need to pick up some copper braid sleeving and some techflex

what kind of places carry copper braid sleeving and techflex locally.

Lowes doesn't have it. I haven't tried Home Depot yet.

Any suggestions? I live in Raleigh, NC which is a pretty large city
 
Oct 22, 2006 at 11:25 PM Post #51 of 58
what record clamps do you guys recommend?

I've seen a couple out there.

What should i look for? Do I have to worry about any incompatibilities?

I've heard about the JA Mitchell, The Goldmund, Clearaudio, etc.

I know I can pick up a JA Mitchell on Ebay for about 46 shipped.
 
Oct 23, 2006 at 11:43 AM Post #52 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
what record clamps do you guys recommend?

I've seen a couple out there.

What should i look for? Do I have to worry about any incompatibilities?

I've heard about the JA Mitchell, The Goldmund, Clearaudio, etc.

I know I can pick up a JA Mitchell on Ebay for about 46 shipped.



Check the manufacturers specs if you are going to use anything other than a very light one like the Michell. Putting too much weight on the bearing can cause premature wear.
 
Oct 26, 2006 at 4:28 AM Post #53 of 58
what does "suspended chassis" mean with regards to turntable design?

anyone have a diagram?

if a turntable does not have a suspended chassis design then what does it use?

is my turntable a suspended chassis design? how do i tell?
 
Oct 27, 2006 at 11:34 AM Post #54 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
what does "suspended chassis" mean with regards to turntable design?


We call that "Subchassis" over here - it means that the drive (or at least some parts of it) will not be rigidly fixed to the housing/plinth, but rather use some sort of flexible suspension (typically spiral (e.g. Thorens TD14x/16x) or leaf springs (e.g. Thorens TD 3xx)) for better decoupling. I.e., if it wobbles, it's a suspended design.

Typical examples for non-suspended designs are your usual Rega Planar models or big "mass drives" like the Transrotor Fat Bob and most direct drives I'm aware of...

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
Oct 27, 2006 at 9:15 PM Post #55 of 58
my turntable has an acrylic platter with a metal shaft that sits on top of a stainless steel ball bearing.


that mean's that it is not suspended correct.

there's no sort of springs or wobbling


this means i can use a nicer heavier record clamp/puck, right?
 
Oct 27, 2006 at 11:32 PM Post #56 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
my turntable has an acrylic platter with a metal shaft that sits on top of a stainless steel ball bearing.

that mean's that it is not suspended correct.



Uhm, you're kind of looking from the wrong direction (i.e. top down instead of bottom up), 'cause - as far as you've described it - a suspended design could be identical. The wobbly parts would rather be deeper inside suspending something that carries the bearing (and possible more, e.g. also the armbase...).


Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
there's no sort of springs or wobbling

this means i can use a nicer heavier record clamp/puck, right?



Well, if there's no wobbling, it's probably unsuspended - or the transport fixings are still secured.
wink.gif
And sorry, but the puck/clamp would not only have to be light enough for the suspension, but also for the bearing. A clamp doesn't have to be heavy to be effective, though - for myself, I'm not much of a fan of either, anyway. But if you have a lot of badly warbled records, it's probably still a good idea...

Greetings from Hannover!

Manfred / lini
 
Oct 28, 2006 at 12:32 AM Post #57 of 58
Quote:

Originally Posted by intlplby
my turntable has an acrylic platter with a metal shaft that sits on top of a stainless steel ball bearing.
that mean's that it is not suspended correct.
there's no sort of springs or wobbling
this means i can use a nicer heavier record clamp/puck, right?



From the website you refer to on the first page, the Opera TT is suspensionless so you are correct. i would contact them about recommended clamps, as our German friend says you may overload the bearing with the extra weight, so Opera may suggest a harder ball, or not to use one at all.
Why do you want a clamp?

for anyone else reading this later, weighted clamps can alter the resonant freq of suspended designs (which can be good), as well as increase the loading on the central bearing (which can be bad)
 

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