[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by elrod-tom You're not kidding about the power cord...mine is pigtailed!!!

When I did the power cord, I used a three-conductor cord so that I could properly ground the chassis. This also seemed to drop the noise floor a bit, but whether it was the ground, or the high priced (almost a buck!) cord I used is up for debate

I ran the hot lead to where the old cord attached to the fuse leading to the transformer and convenience outlets. I ran the neutral to where the old cord connected to the barrier strip by the large capacitor underneath, and the ground to a chassis ground on the same strip.

 

[wallijonn]

regarding the reversed channels on the headphone jack - if you are using it strictly for headphones (sans speakers) why not just reverse the RCA input plugs?

can't you get replacement tube sockets?

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by wallijonn regarding the reversed channels on the headphone jack - if you are using it strictly for headphones (sans speakers) why not just reverse the RCA input plugs? can't you get replacement tube sockets?

You can get replacement tube sockets. On my units, I reversed the channels going to the headphone jack, at the jack. That got it right (I think

) I use the speaker outputs for the K-1000, and might even want to attach a real speaker at some point. An interesting feature of the Fisher 400 is an unamped center channel output...for hooking to a powered center speaker. That's an interesting option for a '60s tube receiver...but it does make a nice place to hook up a subwoofer...

 

[pcyeh]

My Fisher 500C also had the reversed channel problem. Originally I just reversed the input to it to make the headphone sound right. However, I still feel a bit annoyed by the problem. So when I recapped my Fisher 500C, I wanted to get it fixed. I checked the circuit and I found that there are wires connecting the headphone jack and the speaker selector (I don't know if 400C has it or not). Since the headphone jack is very deep inside, I couldn't desolder the wires from it. But the speaker selector switch is quite easy to access. I simply desoldered those wires from the selector switch and reversed them, and the result is good. You can try to fix the problem yourself, it is really easy!

 

[millerdog]

Keep us posted elrod!
Hirsch, what the hell are those two wires coming out of the back of the 400 chassis that connect to the speaker terminals?
md

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by millerdog Keep us posted elrod! Hirsch, what the hell are those two wires coming out of the back of the 400 chassis that connect to the speaker terminals? md

The wires coming out of the back determine which of the transformer taps you're using. You can hook the wires to either a 4, 8 or 16 ohm tap, depending on the speakers you are using.

 

[elrod-tom]

As I'm looking into this more and more, I'm thinking that I'll need a bit more meter to do this right. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[millerdog]

elrod,
I got a digital Radshack I got a while back. If I was going to get deep into this I would go Fluke.

Hirsch, so I have to keep the wires connected to what ever speaker imp. I have? I have 8 ohm speakers, so the taps have to be connected too?
thanks,
md

 

[elrod-tom]

Quote:

Originally posted by millerdog elrod, I got a digital Radshack I got a while back. If I was going to get deep into this I would go Fluke.

Any suggestions for models and/or features more suited to tubes? I mean, for one thing, the voltage is much higher. How much of an issue is stuff like this??

 

[millerdog]

elrod,
I would check with the DIY dudes for more info. I don't think my Radshack is that great, but it suffices.
Places like Digikey and Newark sell some nice stuff as far as multimeters go. Again, I would post in DIY if you are looking for a primo multimeter.
md

 

[elrod-tom]

Quote:

Originally posted by millerdog elrod, I would check with the DIY dudes for more info. I don't think my Radshack is that great, but it suffices. Places like Digikey and Newark sell some nice stuff as far as multimeters go. Again, I would post in DIY if you are looking for a primo multimeter. md

I was on my way there when this message popped up...thanks md

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by millerdog elrod, I got a digital Radshack I got a while back. If I was going to get deep into this I would go Fluke. Hirsch, so I have to keep the wires connected to what ever speaker imp. I have? I have 8 ohm speakers, so the taps have to be connected too? thanks, md

I've got a Fluke meter that's likely to last longer than I will.

Yes, use whichever tap sounds best. It's likely to be the one equal to speaker impedance, but could be lower. Probably not higher.