[10068]

Solve for x.
Err I mean... solve the equation.

I am fairly certain that these are all related, but I don't know what would simultaneous make both gagues fail and also trigger the Check ENgine light.

 

[NightOwl]

If your car otherwise starts and runs normally and your headlights aren't weak, then:
Burnt fuse, alternator/voltage regulator, short/ground fault in the wiring, fault/burnt fuse in the on board computer, probably a couple of other things I'm forgetting.
Bottom line, if it's not a burnt fuse that you can find and replace, get it into a shop with a good reputation to check. DO NOT drive very far with a "Check Engine" light on.

 

[Vayate]

First step is to check the engine code. Use the paperclip trick if it's ODBI, otherwise have a dealership or car parts store check it if it's ODBII. ODBII doesn't turn don't he check engine light until you drive the car a couple times with the problem, so as long as you have good oil pressure and don't notice any immediate trouble signs (grinding sounds, vibrations, puddles of fluids, white or blue smoke from the exhaust) I wouldn't worry about driving it to get it checked. If you do notice immediate trouble signs, pull over and shut down the car IMMEDIATELY. Sixty seconds can be the difference between a new gasket and a seized engine.

 

[jsaliga]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NightOwl /img/forum/go_quote.gif DO NOT drive very far with a "Check Engine" light on.

I have driven my car over 240,000 miles with the "Check Engine" light on. No kidding.

Funny that the light came on about 5,000 miles after the warranty expired.

I took the car to my mechanic and he read the code and said it was transmission related, but I don't recall the specifics since it was years ago. To replace the part the code called for would have been about $700 including labor. I thought to myself, $700 to make a frapping light go out on my dash? No friggin way.

My odometer will hit 300,000 miles in the next couple of months, and the car still runs and shifts just fine...though I do need to take it in soon for new tie rod ends.

--Jerome

 

[NightOwl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsaliga /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have driven my car over 240,000 miles with the "Check Engine" light on. No kidding. Funny that the light came on about 5,000 miles after the warranty expired. I took the car to my mechanic and he read the code and said it was transmission related, but I don't recall the specifics since it was years ago. To replace the part the code called for would have been about $700 including labor. I thought to myself, $700 to make a frapping light go out on my dash? No friggin way. My odometer will hit 300,000 miles in the next couple of months, and the car still runs and shifts just fine...though I do need to take it in soon for new tie rod ends. --Jerome

You are a lucky man and should buy lottery tickets. I have two friends that this happened to. One took his car to a mechanic when the "Check Engine" light came on. It was a faulty switch and he's since driven about 100,000 km with that light continuously on. It only makes his passengers nervous till he explains it.
The other never bothered to have it checked. Two days later his engine seized (faulty oil pump). $5,000 for a rebuild.
It may be nothing, but it should be checked. At least then you can make an informed decision.

 

[Uncle Erik]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsaliga /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have driven my car over 240,000 miles with the "Check Engine" light on. No kidding.

I've done the same and religiously ignore the idiot lights.

Actually, cars are programmed to turn those on whether there's a problem or not. Mine turns on every 5,000 miles. I know how to reset it, so I do.

Car manufacturers do this for their dealers. If you look at how car dealerships are set up, they're designed to break even on car sales. All profit is designed to come from service and part sales.

This is why you're showered with fliers, "free" oil changes, etc., etc., etc., ad nauseum from the place you bought your car. If you ever go to a dealership for an air filter, they will put you on their mailing list and inundate you.

Also, a car usually gives you a bunch of hints when something is about to go wrong. If you know what to look for, you can almost always head them off. It goes without saying that you should do the routine maintenance and not drive like a moron. That's how I've treated several cars over the past 20 years and a good 400,000 miles. No catastrophic failures, despite any number of check engine lights being on.

As for the OP, I'd start with the fuses and pick up the Haynes manual (or shop manual) for your car. It'll have checklists for each of those problems you can follow. I'd recommend learning to work on your car instead of a shop that will just try to sell you stuff you don't need. And given that labor is at least $40 an hour these days, you're better off with a set of wrenches.

 

[10068]

@Uncle Erik-- Try $89/hour

Labor is getting very expensive here (Washington state)

Thanks guys. My first though was fuse(s) too, i'll just replace all of them. This car was sitting without being used for several months, and even though major work was just done including basically an engine rebuild, I don't honestly think the fuses were checked. So new fuses it is!

I'll go from there and LYK...


EDIT: Speaking of idiot-warnings, how do I remove the "safety features"? Like the button I have to hold to start turn the ignition for actually starting the car, things like that. I hate those.

 

[DanTheMiataMan]

on OBDII cars always go to Autozone or whatever and have them pull the CEL then google the CEL number to see if it is something critical or not.

ODBII - (95-96ish and newer)

 

[10068]

It's an '88 IIRC.

 

[DanTheMiataMan]

then google car type + check engine light code and there should be a guide how to jump some pins to check what code it is throwing.

 

[10068]

Why do you drive a Miata in Oregon, btw? Isn't that a recipe for disaster? I hope it's a hardtop at least, then it's not a big deal.

 

[DanTheMiataMan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sduibek /img/forum/go_quote.gif Why do you drive a Miata in Oregon, btw? Isn't that a recipe for disaster? I hope it's a hardtop at least, then it's not a big deal.

1) We do have nice spring/summers
2) lots of twisty back roads
3) Soft top works fine in the rain
4) I have a hard top

 

[10068]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vayate /img/forum/go_quote.gif First step is to check the engine code. Use the paperclip trick if it's ODBI,

What is that?

 

[DanTheMiataMan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sduibek /img/forum/go_quote.gif What is that?

then google car type + check engine light code and there should be a guide how to jump some pins (via using a paperclip or some wire) to check what code it is throwing.

 

[BIG POPPA]

You may have popped a fuse? You may have a faulty temp sensor and it should be pretty close to the thermostat. What kind of vehicle do you have? Went to school for Auto electronics and emissions. Have a few ninja tricks to help you out. We can even reset the computer painlessly to make sure you have a code.