Nice grado pad mod!
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NotoriousBIG_PJ

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Looks like Beyer pads with some cutting maybe? I'm still waiting on my send pads to arrive for my rs-1's.


Biggie.
 
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The Quality Guru

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Interesting. Perhaps if the wood was stained or painted it would look even cooler-- but it looks cool as it is, and from your description of the sound, it looks as if the sound is very flat-pad-esque.
 
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kin3tix

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wow, those grado's must also be pretty comfy also.
 
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wallijonn

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Thanks, gerG for putting them up so fast, and for your listening equipment, your testing equipment, your measuring equipment, your music... what can i say, i'm indebted to the man!

this is the first, base, mod for the gradoes. the frequency response does NOT tell the full story, though!

i used 1/4" popular wood and cut a donut, then mounted gerG's beyer dt831 pads on them to see what differences, if any, showed up.

i have been finding myself pushing-in on the bottom of the grado driver enclosure to get a more "fuller" sound, otherwise it sounds too tinny. i found that if i played with the pad placement and pushed it in "just right" it would produce 'acceptable' sound. but the soundstage was too wide, too thin. (right now, push in the bottom or front side of your headphones without covering the outer shell (should it be the open type). use just 1 finger. did the sound change?

so then i started bending the band IN to put more pressure on the enclosure to get a fuller sound. unfortunately this caused physical ear lobe pain. my ears hurt for two days. but it did sound better.

the problem with the 1/4" poplar wood is that it's too thick and the band can not be adjusted up and down far enough; the bottom plastic blocks (L/R) will only come down so far and then stop (it hits the pad). i will be moving on to 1/16" aluminum in the next few days and that should resolve that problem. of course i'll have to wrap the outer edge of the aluminum so that it doesn't cut into the pads, but if glued, rubber should suffice. heck, you could probably glue 1/16" rubber on the top and bottom and then you'll have no problem with the beyer pads (from being destroyed).

now on to the sound - totally different! you can actually listen to them now. bass? check. mids? check. highs? check. *** now when i press on the front or the bottom of the case the sound does NOT change whats-so-ever! *** (did you do the finger pressure check as i suggested?). the tinniness was gone. there's bass to mid bass now, the harshness is gone. much sweeter. but i know that there's room for improvement. so i'll be waiting for those aiwa ak100's. one pair is gonna be taken apart for parts. i originally wanted the ak100's because of the band - it looks like it puts clamping pressure (pushes the bottom in) in the correct place. this alone should give a much fuller sound. (i was working on the mod before the ak100's went on sale for $19.95).

and yes, i wanted to paint the outer wood miata red, and put blue felt on the inside.


and those pieces of wood are one piece (although i broke one at 2am this morning). i pushed a square peg through a round hole.
4 "C" aluminum pieces (to make an "O") will probably work. i wonder what the smallest rivet size is? i will probably use the same trick to get the grado can to go into a 2" hole.

for those of you who want to use the beyer pads in their own mods, the inner hole is 2" and the outer hole is 3 & 15/16". this is why i asked if there was a difference in size between the dt990 and dt831 pads. it's just different materials on the outside.

Notorious, I did the senn yellow pads (1495 pads?) and forget it - it's not worth the trouble. junk. do the head-wize sock mod instead. you'll probably get better results. or just glue a piece of velour on the outside of the bowl pads. the velour should cost you about $2 for a square yard at a fabric store. a can of glue-in-a-can should cost you about $3. this is what i originally was going to do. but i still kept pressing the bowls in to get better sound. and i kept moving the pad off my earlobe so that my ear lobe would not hurt. but then the transducer was touching my ear. and this gave a very harsh sound.

so this idea came to me... nice pics, gerG. thanks.
 
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wallijonn

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kin3tix, they're VERY comfortable
they're beyers! i picked the beyer pads when gerG nonchalantly said, "they're the most comfortable pads i've ever seen." his word is good enough for me.

i hope those aiwa's get here soon. if everything goes as i think they will, you guys are gonna drool...

and you just wait - i'm gonna get them just as flat as those senn's. i've got some ideas - inverse bowls with silicon covering, inverse bowl with felt, inverse bowls with velour, inverse bowl with paper-thin felt, cutting up the original bowls so that the inside curve is inside the beyer pad... don't worry. i'll get it. wish me luck, guys.
 
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LobsterSan

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Wow, best of luck on this DIY project! It's looking really cool so far... the Frankenstein of headphones. I always thought it might be cool to try to put good sounding drivers in good looking cans... though I always feared it would be too difficult to get the sound right. Looks like you approached the issue from the other way -- sound first, and the cool looks will naturally follow! Thumbs up!
 
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gerG

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hmmm...

It occurs to me that wallijonn needs to add a lathe to his audio equipment wish list.


For mods like this wood is very treacherous. It has no strength across grain boundaries, so it splits. Hig grade plywoods solve this, if you can get the plys thin enough.

In am a huge fan of aluminum. Easy to work, and very tough. Also very cheap if you know where to get it. Delrin plastic is also great.

Highest cool factor would be carbon fiber, but I've never worked with it. Anybody tried anything like this in that material?


gerG
 
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NotoriousBIG_PJ

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I received the senn pads today and they sound great. I noticed they added a bit of a veil on the music so I cut some big round holes in them. The veil is gone and they are much more comfortable then backwards bowl pads. The highs are tamed and the ears are happy, so I am happy.

Biggie.
 
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wallijonn

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Biggy, do you find the transducer is now touching your ears?
 
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NotoriousBIG_PJ

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Hrrrm I think part of the transducer is touching my ear, but the outer parts of my ear are touching the padding, where with the backwards bowl pads, my whole ear was pretty much touching the transducer. I haven't listened long enough to experience anyone ear pain with this new combination so I guess thats a good sign.


Biggie.
 
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Hirsch

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The transducer does not touch my ear with the Sennheiser pads.
 
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dfarina

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Quote:

Originally posted by NotoriousBIG_PJ
I received the senn pads today and they sound great. I noticed they added a bit of a veil on the music so I cut some big round holes in them. The veil is gone and they are much more comfortable then backwards bowl pads. The highs are tamed and the ears are happy, so I am happy.

Biggie.


How large of a diameter hole did you cut,and does anyone know how different diameters affect the sound???
 
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wallijonn

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the inner diameter of the donut was 2".

read this article, it talks about changing pads (among other things, equalisation circuits on dt990's): http://headwize.com/projects/beyer_prj.htm

the grado bowl is tapered to accentuate the bass. I will probably be incorporating this design into my modification.
 
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wallijonn

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[size=medium]OH MY GOD![/size]

Phase 1 is complete.

I made two aluminum donuts 3 & 31/32" inch in diameter and made a 2" hole in the centre. I turned the finish into brushed aluminum. Black & Silver. GORGEOUS.

I unsoldered the transducers and mounted the transducers in the aluminum hole. I then resoldered the wires.

I cut the Grado pads so that the angled portion of the bowl fits inside the Beyer DT831 pads.

The sound: TOO MUCH BASS! This thing shakes when it's playing bass notes. I'm wondering if adding cotton batting to the cup side will tame it. I doubt it as cotton batting tends to increase volume space and therefore increasing bass, but I may be able to push it towards an infinite baffle type enclosure. The transients are all there, as is the forward sound of the midrange. The highs are super smooth. Maybe it just matches well with the Crown D60 amp, as I have found that the K501 has a LOT of bass, as does the K1000s when I play them through my Crown D60 amp. So let's chalk this one up to my modifications AND the Crown amp.

The final phase would be the headband. I'm still undecided if I want to destroy the Aiwa AK100s. It should be easy enough to mount it on new pivot points.

The bass is super TIGHT: sub-woofer tight. I can't believe my ears! My head is shaking from the bass notes. I feel like I'm inside a car with a $5000 stereo - the ghetto blaster woofers being heard from 10 blocks away! HOORAY! Michael Jackson's "Billie Jean" sounds like it would at Studio 54 on a saturday night!
--------------------
I left this note mostly intact as evidence of the dangers of over exhuberance. I'm sorry I got everyone so worked up.
 
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