Next time I build a Tread, remind me to just order a kit from Tangent
Oct 21, 2006 at 12:58 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 26

ozshadow

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I just finished one completely on doughnut board. That was a royal pain. I'll take SMD stuff anyday, but wiring doughnot board is a pain. But the signal goes in a 1000uf cap, a 330uf cap, .1uf poly cap, other side of the reg, it goes in a 100uf cap, and 10uf tant. And I had to wire some resistors in series and some in parallel to get the values I needed for the 1k trimmer.

I did add a diode to the input. The 30v RS power supply was running at 35.2v and I wanted a lil under for my 35v caps. Also, the closest thing I had for a LED resistor was a 10k one and without an amp hooked up, that thing burns forever hehe.

All this for a clean, stable 24.6 volts, which feeds the charging/power circuit in my little amp which needs a whole 17mA, as soon as my batteries come in.

Sorry, no pics. Those screws in the RS plastic boxes are tough. No way was I taking them back out.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 1:20 AM Post #2 of 26
Ew. That sucks. I absolutely suck at point-to-point and perfboard layouts... one of the reasons I like PCBs so much is that it is much less a pain in my butt. I've been toying with the idea of laying out a small mini-tread/charging circuit in eagle for my PPAS and etching it, 'cause I really only need the DC regulation side of it and tangent's board is too big for what I want. I almost tried to use perfboard, but figured that it would be a lot quicker, but more of a PITA. I still haven't gotten it done, though.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 1:45 AM Post #3 of 26
There is a third option - buy his boards.

I bought a couple of his kits, first. After building them, I learned enough about what I wanted to just order his boards and get the parts myself. His kit is very competitive until you want to build more than 3 or 4, or upgrade certain things like the LM317, the main power cap, delete the test points, etc.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 1:53 AM Post #4 of 26
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb
There is a third option - buy his boards.

I bought a couple of his kits, first. After building them, I learned enough about what I wanted to just order his boards and get the parts myself. His kit is very competitive until you want to build more than 3 or 4, or upgrade certain things like the LM317, the main power cap, delete the test points, etc.



Oh, yeah, I've got a couple projects that I'm going to do just that for. Tangent's work is great and I've ordered stuff from him before. I just wanted to make something small enough to wedge into a teeny hammond with my ppas, and only needed the regulator part.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 7:54 AM Post #5 of 26
Am I the only one on this forum who can quite easily use 'doughnut board'? (or veroboard is the name I use for it)

I've built quite a few lm317/337 regulator boards for adjustable test supplies for other projects that usually have the range of +/-5V and +/-15v

I guess having a real good understanding on how the circuit works and what currents flow where help a lot in designing one of these
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 10:16 AM Post #6 of 26
Quote:

Originally Posted by DaKi][er
Am I the only one on this forum who can quite easily use 'doughnut board'? (or veroboard is the name I use for it)

I've built quite a few lm317/337 regulator boards for adjustable test supplies for other projects that usually have the range of +/-5V and +/-15v

I guess having a real good understanding on how the circuit works and what currents flow where help a lot in designing one of these



I would say it's more artistic/layout skills more than anything. I have a friend who does commercial layout for a living and could figure out protoboards quite handily when I explaine the circuit to him. Obviously having electrical knowledge helps when placement is crucial (ie HF feedback, decoupling, grounding, etc)
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 10:21 AM Post #7 of 26
There is always the old-time ferric chloride solution

tlike.jpg
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 2:01 PM Post #8 of 26
Quote:

Originally Posted by DaKi][er
Am I the only one on this forum who can quite easily use 'doughnut board'? (or veroboard is the name I use for it)


redface.gif
Maybe I'm just impatient when I do it, but I always end up screwing stuff up or taking forever trying to make it just right. I prefer etching something if I'm making a small circuit, just because it seems easier to lay out a few parts in eagle, print, and toss it in the solution. I do still consider myself a beginner, though, so maybe that will change with time. I've done a couple minor things like a serial port LIRC receiver and a lm317 charging circuit and a couple things for my pc either point to point or with protoboard, but they were only a few parts. I etched a board for my first cmoy, and a couple random things since then.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 10:52 PM Post #9 of 26
Stripboard is my best friend. I laid out both balanced channels for my KGSS on stripboard:
dscn0783kq5.jpg

Of course, it takes careful planning. Heres my first attempt at one channel (that last pic was both channels):
dscn0774qf0.jpg

Now then, i have a question: What is the benefit of 'doughnut' board over stripboard. They are basically both point to point, with the doughtnut board having less than an 1" of trace advantage. And since you can flow solder over the whole strip on the stripboard anyway....just seems like its easier at little to no cost. Not that it takes no thought, as demonstrated above, just a little easier.
 
Oct 21, 2006 at 11:35 PM Post #10 of 26
Doughnut board has individual pads. Not really needed as I was soldering mainly leads together, but it is nice to have something that everthing can stick to. It was nicest in areas I packed a lot of stuff together, as I could keep joints very close but separate. The Tread came out about 1 1/2 by 2 inches, but I did not have to include a bridge.



Oh, and I hate long bare leads. I slid the thinnest spagetti shrink wrap on the longer leads.
 
Oct 22, 2006 at 12:58 AM Post #12 of 26
I managed to cram a 1/2 tread (no bridge), on 7/8x7/8 of protoboard. You can make some of the nodes smaller by cramming 2 leads through the same hole. Of course the leads have to be small enough, no way can I cram 2 1N400x leads or leads from a to-220 with anything else.
 

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