[tkim1205]

Hi guys,
 
I'm looking to recable my Alessandro MS1s, and had a few questions. I read up on a few threads on this forum to gather the information I have below. I was hoping for any feedback regarding the materials and use of materials. Thanks!
 
 
[Materials]
- Mogami W2893 Cable (5 ft)
- 2:1 1/4" Non-Adhesive Heat Shrink (1 ft)
- 2:1 3/8" Adhesive Heat Shrink (1 ft)
- 1/8" Nylon Filament Tubing (5 ft)
- 3/16" Nylon Filament Tubing (3 ft)
- Switchcraft 3.5mm Stereo Plug
 
 
[Cabling diagram]
 
D  D
|   |   2:1 1/4" nonadhesive heat shrink - Small amount used to secure L/R wires before cups
|   |
|   |   
|   |   1/8" Nylon Filament tubing - used to cover the bare twisted Mogami wires
|   |
 | |   
  Y   2:1 3/8" adhesive heat shrink - Secure Y split
  |
  |    
  |    3/16" Nylon Filament tubing - used to cover Mogami wires
  |
  |
  ^
  ||   2:1 3/8" adhesive heat shrink - Secure wire to stereo plug 
  v   Switchcraft 3.5mm stereo plug

 

[cfcubed]

Not a cable guy myself but a couple thoughts/opinions FWIW:
*  ebay & elsewhere have nice plastic pieces for Y coupler
*  secure the wire within the ear cup well.  I used a zip tie in the repair I did on mine.  Rising from a chair with headphones on while stepping on their cable has been known to happen
*  would re-consider the Nylon Filament tubing or any full wraps on Mogami wires...  I found they add stiffness & curling properties to otherwise nice cables and transmit sound to cups whenever cable slides against anything.  In fact I carefully trimmed that crap off a cable of mine using an X-acto knife.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

Tkim all your sizes are spot on. Those are the exact sizes I use when building most headphone cables. 
 
As CFCubed mentioned, securing the cable is pretty important. I like to use the exact amount of heatshrink so the cable is firmly in place in the hole in the cup. I then use two small zip ties so the ends are on each side. I then use hot glue (just like Grado) to secure the cable in place, however it is removable if need be. 
 
Be quick when soldering the solder pads on the Grado driver, the driver is only meant for low-level heat / solder. If you heat too long, you'll have a dead driver on your hands, and no one likes that Also be careful not to pull the solder pad off the driver when removing the original cable. 

 

[tkim1205]

Thanks for the tips gents!
 
When i'm done, i'll post some pics and the final list. Looks like I can't get the exact items on the material list here in Canada, so I'll have to improvise and try different sizes.