[W-Moran3]

[size=11pt]Thanks all, glad to contribute!  Since the build I purchased a set of AKG K702’s (influenced by comments in this thread).  I’ve been breaking them in through a combination of test tones and listening.  I’m enjoying the combination and listening to music very, very much.[/size]

[size=11pt]  Yesterday’s mail brought an order of caps.  I plan to upgrade to Elna’s and Nichicon’s in the big cap locations.  Also I’ve been reading through the V-DAC Mod thread.  A few more parts and I’ll be ready to tweak that component also.  Then I’m done . . .  Unless I fry something.  Then I’ll return to the Bantam DAC thread! [/size]

  (I still can’t believe I didn’t zap, cook, short, melt, blow up, flip, invert, wrong part something.  Hopefully the luck will continue.)

 

[tomb]

It gets really frustrating when someone sends me an e-mail with an invalid return address.  I've tried several times with this individual with various spellings and all the replies fail.  So, I'm posting here in the hopes that he'll see it.
 
The question was what to do about the "MC78L24ACP" regulator being out of stock at Mouser.  I've posted this before, but there's a downside to the BOM's I do with specific links to specific parts.  If that part is out of stock, it may not seem obvious what to do.
 
Search on Mouser for "78L24" and you'll get this:
[size=small]http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=78L24[/size]
 
The very first one in the list says they have 1,565 in stock at 74 cents each.  Further down, there's another one that says they have 5,977 in stock at only 54 cents each.  There are many more besides that.  Just be careful to get a TO-92 version, not something SMD.

 
Hopefully, he'll see this.

 

[tomb]

Bump - still hope the guy sees this, because I can't get through to his e-mail.  Last try, though.

 

[W-Moran3]

If this is in reference to post # 6253.
Your post #6255 and jdkJake's post #6254 answered my questions. I was able to order your recommendations from Mouser and the amp has been up and running great for awhile now  Thank you for your help and sorry if I left an open ended thread.
 

 

[tomb]

No worries.  The person in question got in touch with me.  This was something that happened within the last couple of days and it wasn't you W-Moran3.

 

[eertelppa]

The lessons learnt document is awesome! And yeah very nice auto-cad work.
 
I think I am going to try and build a mosfet and use with my grados and mainly as an introduction to building amps. I was going to build a starving student, but pcb's are still available for this and the cost is not that much greater. I plan to build my own case and hopefully I can figure a way to mount the tubes higher so they are more visible.
 
I have a lot of work ahead of me. Ordering from beezar and mouser so trying to get all the mouser stuff in order as I type.
 
Thanks,
 
Austin
 
ps: I was thinking about going with telefunkens or bugle boy 12AU7 for the starving student. Anything similar for the 12AE6, 12AE6A, 12FM6, 12FK6 options out there?
pps: Also any suggestions on extra stuff to buy or parts to spend a little extra on? I am ordering some extra resistors and for anything super cheap I have been ordering an extra. I think some people splurge on capacitors on some diy projects.

 

[W-Moran3]

Some things to think about to avoid extra shipping charges and trips to the store.  Some are mentioned outside of the BOM and they are easy to forget about while you are excitedly rushing to order all the electrical components.
  1)  Tube Bushings:  Mouser [size=8pt]Part #561-MP10012.[/size]

  2)  3.5mm Stereo Panel Mount Jack:  Parts Express - 090-317   [size=8pt]http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=090-317%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=090-317  [/size]For if you want a 2^nd sized jack.

  3)  Gold RCA Jack, Chassis Mount:  Parts Express - 091-1120  [size=8pt]http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1120%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=091-1120 [/size]
        There are many alternative manufacturers to check out if you want to.  You can spend way more ($$) than the ~$7 that these go for by looking at higher end products.

  4)  Cabinet Cone Spikes:  Parts Express 240-660  [size=8pt]http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-660&FTR=240-660  [/size]This is optional.

  5)  Tip Jacks – Insulated Standard Type: 2.00mm.  Digi-Key J320-ND Think about how you want to color code them.

  6)  Knobs:  I ordered 2 kinds so I could touch and feel them.  (I like them both)
        Digi-Key 226-4103-ND  -Mach. Alum. Instra. Knob - ML Model Soft Touch - Matte Black
[size=8pt]

[/size]        Digi-Key 226-4002-ND  -Mach. Alum. Instra. Knob - OEJ Model - Matte Black
                                                                                                                                                                        
Other Stuff To Think About
  7)  Hammond Case Color:  Make sure you order the color intended (aluminum or black).  BOM defaults to aluminum.
  8)  Heat Sink Mounting Kit (insulator & hardware).[size=8pt]  http://www.diyforums.org/MAX/MAXheatsink.php  [/size]Suggest getting a kit up front rather than assemble the individual pieces.
  9)  Wiring – I used standard wire to connect the RCA jacks to the ALPS pot.  You could get fancy here with material (Cu, Ag) and insulation types.
10)  Hardware:  The build suggests some longer case screws for the Hammond case (need to extend threads with a tap). Also remember a PCB standoff solution for the center of the board.
 
If you haven’t already, read TBomb06’s post #6146. It lists out a good plan to follow.  Good luck and have fun!

 

[eertelppa]

Like OMGawd!!!111!
 
No but seriously thank you so much for posting. I was worried no one was going to and I told myself I was gonna order everything tonight so in hopes it will ship out tomorrow.
 
I was planning on ordering from mouser and beezar. Yeah I am missing a lot of things....
 
 
-I plan to make my own case
-My checklist:
   -bom (currently at $100 mouser, ordered 1 or 2 extra of anything cheap <.50)
      -first need to double check cause there was like 50 things to order;
      -second need to confirm (if possible) about the 3 or 4 things i had to find alternatives for to make sure they are fine, I have them written down but of course on my desk at home
   -beezar
      -pcb
      -led thingys
      -caps
      -pot
      -mosfet parts
   -all spec
      -soder wick
      -slim nose pliers
      -tweezers
      -flush cutter
      -solder wire
   -tubes (need to see who all made 12AE6 in case I want somewhat fancier ones....I have the notes at home)
   -tube bushings
   -3.5mm stereo panel mount jack
   -gold rca jack
   -cone jacks (? need to research what these are)
   -tip jacks (? need to research what these are)
   -knobs (yeah definitely would like to order ones that I like the look of)
   -heat sink mounting kit (? need to research what this is)
   -wiring (need to see if mouser sells this)
 
I think I read that post but am going double check. Thanks again for the reply and advice!
 
Austin
 
edit: Wow! I just read his post and printed it out. Seems like I was doing a lot of things similar to his suggestions already, which is comforting to know. It also has some really good suggestions and info on starting it up and testing and all that stuff I had no idea about.

 

[MrDavis]

Check out the BOM on the MiniMax and the Millett Max.  It won't take you long to figure out what is missing on the MOSFET MAX BOM.
 
http://www.diyforums.org/MiniMAX/MiniMAXbom.php
 
http://www.diyforums.org/MAX/MAXbom.php
 
I'm almost done building my MOSFET MAX.  Just have to finish the wiring, set and biasing, and then put in its case...

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

[eertelppa]

Whew sometimes I hate being a perfectionist.
 
Ok so it seems like I am currently about to order from mouser and beezar.
 
-caps -- need to figure out the cap situation and remove the ones from mouser and get the elna ones from hndme.com.
---not sure if i need 2 - 1000uF 25v and 2 - 1000uF 50v or 4 - 1000uF 25V or 4 - 1000uF 50v
---buying vitq from beezar
---not sure about other caps CA3/4/5/6/9 (currently have ones from mouser in bom)
-knobs -- one of two things i would order from digikey
-tip jacks -- not sure what these are but would be the second thing to order from digikey
-was able to find additional stuff either on beezar or mouser so would prefer not to use digikey for two items
-cone spikes -- would be only part from parts connection so will hold off
-heat sink kit -- got 5 of these
-slo-blo -- added fuse
 
so besides the caps, knobs (can prob find locally), tip jacks, and cone spikes (optional of course) it seems like I am good to go.
 
If no replies in the morning I will just get the caps I think are correct (and not get the CA2L/R or CA7L/R from mouser) and order my stuff from hndme, beezar, and mouser in hopes it ships tomorrow.
 
 
Thanks for all the great advice so far!
 
Austin
 

 

[jdkJake]

Tip jacks:

http://www.diyforums.org/MAX/MAXcasework3.php

Suggest you go re-read the various MAX pages (both regular and MOSFET) at diyforums prior to finalizing your purchases and attempting the build.

 

[jdkJake]

Caps:

You need two (2) 1000uf 16V for CA2 (left and right)
You need two (2) 1000uf 35V for CA7 (left and right)
You need four (4) 1800uf 35V (minimum, you can go up to 2200uf if you like) for CA4 and CA5 (left and right).

Again, suggest you re-read the diyforum MAX sites again to get a better idea of the scope of the build as well as to capture the parts you appear to be overlooking.

Also, digikey stocks the Elma RFS line of capacitors if you wish to consolidate your order further and save on shipping.

 

[eertelppa]

Jake,
 
First of all thank you for the response and advice.
 
I need to get back to work so I will be quick, but spent the last hr or so reading through all the sections and correcting my items accordingly.
 
I worded it incorrectly when I was talking about the caps, as I knew which ones I needed but was not seeing those at hndme.com and was curious if others would work.
 
Now I have the correct ones:
(2) 1000uf 16V for CA2 (left and right) - elna from digikey
(2) 1000uf 35V for CA7 (left and right) - elna from digikey
(4) 2200uf 35V - nichicon (had 8 in cart for some reason so changed to 4)
 
Ordered the tip jacks per colors and amount as similar to build pictures. Ordered some wire from navships.
 
Other than that I am fairly confident I did not miss anything. Thanks again for the help as to be honest I flipped through the website but must have always passed up the construction section which seemed to be the most beneficial. Will definately have it by my side during the build.
 
Regards,
 
Austin
 

 

[ryssen]

I cant on the schama how the 6,3 volts for the filamnts are made?
Hoe is it made?

 

[Beefy]

Well they are 12V tubes for a start (12AE6, 12FK6). So they are wired in-series directly off the 27V power supply, with resistor R1 dropping the voltage down to the correct value.
 
On the schematic http://www.diyforums.org/MiniMAX/schematic/MiniMAXsch100.png follow V+ (27V) at pin 3 on VTR through pin 4 on VTR through R1, then pin 3 and 4 on VTL through to Ground.