[amphead]

We need better pictures of the top of the board. Close-ups of the power supply and of the DBs/transistors.

 

[IcantHearU]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrygp /img/forum/go_quote.gif Finished up my second Millet Hybrid, powered it up, checked the DB bias, and had plugged my multimeter probes into the V+ and GRD tip jacks to check voltage, and then CR1D ruptured at the seam and steam spewed forth like a small geyser. The top of the cap is slightly distorted but there are no other obvious signs of trauma. One possibility is that I jumpered the fuse-not knowing if I needed to or not, and hooked the power wires up to position 1 and 2 on the 3 pos terminal block. Maybe I should have removed the jumper? I've included some Pixs of my board. Can anyone offer up any help? I can provide any component info if needed.

From here it looks like it's just one of the electrolytic caps installed backwards - look at the stripe(negative side) on the one that blew -
Hope that helps.

 

[fordgtlover]

IcantHearU would appear to be on the money. It sure looks like CR1D is reversed.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordgtlover /img/forum/go_quote.gif IcantHearU would appear to be on the money. It sure looks like CR1D is reversed.

Agreed - I hope those aren't polarized Black Gates.

Looks like a great build, though, jerrygp - nice Black Gates at CA2 and CA7!

 

[vixr]

this LED supplier looks promising... they have a pretty good selection of stuff.

 

[n_maher]

Can you guys seriously not find what you need for LED's at Mouser? And I have to say, I'm generally trying to make LED's less bright not more.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can you guys seriously not find what you need for LED's at Mouser? And I have to say, I'm generally trying to make LED's less bright not more.

Hey - you broke the rules, anyway - you didn't even drill your tube sockets and install the tube LED's on that last MAX you built.

 

[slowpogo]

I'm probably going to try the "Can't Miss Build #1". Somewhere in this swamp of a thread, I read that CA2 was not as important as CA7, in terms of its affect on the SQ.

Another thing I've read is that the different BG types generally play very well together in the signal path. Given those two ideas, would it be acceptable to use a standard polarized Black Gate 1000uf, 25v cap in CA2, and the expensive 680uf NX in CA7?

I plan on using Panasonic FC or FM for all the other electrolytics, if that's important.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowpogo /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm probably going to try the "Can't Miss Build #1". Somewhere in this swamp of a thread, I read that CA2 was not as important as CA7, in terms of its affect on the SQ. Another thing I've read is that the different BG types generally play very well together in the signal path. Given those two ideas, would it be acceptable to use a standard polarized Black Gate 1000uf, 25v cap in CA2, and the expensive 680uf NX in CA7? I plan on using Panasonic FC or FM for all the other electrolytics, if that's important.

You might do just as well or better with one of those FM's in the CA2 position, but yes - you are correct about the general strategy. Keep in mind I haven't actually tested it, but given what we know and the large numbers of Jeff's kits that were built with FC's in that position - it's a good bet.

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey - you broke the rules, anyway - you didn't even drill your tube sockets and install the tube LED's on that last MAX you built.

True enough, I have an aversion to installing parts that I can never remove later on.

I like the older implementation of the tube LED's with the installation done on the bottom of the board so that if one ever wanted to remove/change/replace one of the LED's they could do so without having to remove the entire tube socket.

 

[joneeboi]

To remove my tube lights, I just need to tip it upside down, apply heat to the pads and poke around a bit with a screwdriver or toothpick. It's not that much trouble.

 

[ruZZ.il]

you can do it all with the tube sockets still in..

edit: err, yeah.. what joneeboi said

 

[thomaskuhn]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Congrats, Thomas. Welcome to the club What's the delay with the RS1s?

I think you are refering to the e12 relay circuit? I still have it as stock. If you are wondering the delay in trying the amp out with them, they were at the office, and I finished the amp at the house. I will say the whole thing sounds great! I am really loving it! I am contemplating the idea of swapping out the 2sc2238/9xx with the ones I got from MCM. The first set was from the Hong Kong ebay guy. I also just got some K42's in, and should soon have them installed. If anyone needs a pair, just PM me. I should have about 6 left, after myself and some I am giving away. I was walking around Orlando's awsome surplus store, and looking at the capacators, I came upon some Sprague .22mF 200V 2TM-p22 caps. They look similar to the VitQ's I haave seen in pictures, but have a black coating on the outside. If anyone would like to audio test them, just PM me and I send them to you.

Tom

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by thomaskuhn /img/forum/go_quote.gif I think you are refering to the e12 relay circuit? I still have it as stock. If you are wondering the delay in trying the amp out with them, they were at the office, and I finished the amp at the house. I will say the whole thing sounds great! I am really loving it! I am contemplating the idea of swapping out the 2sc2238/9xx with the ones I got from MCM. The first set was from the Hong Kong ebay guy. I also just got some K42's in, and should soon have them installed. If anyone needs a pair, just PM me. I should have about 6 left, after myself and some I am giving away. I was walking around Orlando's awsome surplus store, and looking at the capacators, I came upon some Sprague .22mF 200V 2TM-p22 caps. They look similar to the VitQ's I haave seen in pictures, but have a black coating on the outside. If anyone would like to audio test them, just PM me and I send them to you. Tom

Sounds like you found some Sprague Black Beauties.

About the 2SC2238/2SA968's - let us know if it makes a difference swapping them out - but try to be sure that it's not psychological. I have a habit of claiming "better" just because I put the sweat into doing it. That may or may not be reality. I have one on the building board right now with the Chinese versions I got from that local vendor that I trust ... ed.

I'll swap 'em out if you think there's a difference.

 

[jerrygp]

Thank you all for your help. CR1D is reversed. I don't know how that slipped by...I am usually very...anal about my DIY stuff. (Have to be with no electronics training or experience.) Tomb mentioned polarized Black Gates, the side of the canister has "nonpolar" markings, so I assume I am alright there? Would reversing the CR1D cap have damaged anything else?

And thank you Tomb, for your attaboy. I am using the Russian PIO's in there as well at CA8. Hope it breaks in sweetly. You folks are part of a great community.