New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp
Aug 19, 2007 at 12:57 PM Post #1,097 of 6,727
Im using 1000 kz's all around on mine. If it had more bass I would have to make adjustments to the equalizer. Im very pleased so far. I dont really have anythign else to compare it too, but I have zero complaints with kz's. My highs dont seem harsh at all, everything is clear and smooth to me. But Im running a 1.0 auricap as bypass so most of my mid/highs should be going through there.
 
Aug 19, 2007 at 1:23 PM Post #1,098 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I agree with Amphead's instructions completely. Also, Joneeboi - you mentioned in a post further back that you experienced a "loud DC pop". That should not happen, so it may be that you have a short somewhere in the board. You should probably look for that before plugging in another walwart. If you can post some pics, we may be able to spot a solder bridge or something else untoward.


I unsuspectingly checked the terminal block voltage using the DCV setting, but changed to ACV as soon as I realized. Could this have damaged the wallwart?
 
Aug 19, 2007 at 1:32 PM Post #1,099 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I unsuspectingly checked the terminal block voltage using the DCV setting, but changed to ACV as soon as I realized. Could this have damaged the wallwart?


NO - and you would read zero DC volts if you did this.
 
Aug 19, 2007 at 10:49 PM Post #1,101 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by babbkutz@comcast /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have mounting kits T0-220 from Aavid in three flavors (Mica,SG, and Thermalloy..MG SG AND G). Could you go into detail about the use of thermal paste and shoulder washers? I'm using 1" sinks on a MAX with DBs...thanks!


not sure bout MG/SG/G but what you're trying to do is electrically insulate the output transistors and the voltage regulator from the heat sink, while allowing thermal conduction. A very little bit of the thermal paste is optionally used on both sides of the thermally conductive insulating pad to allow better heat transfer by achieving better contact(filling in the gaps).

The shoulder washer is to prevent the mounting screw from coming in contact with the metal tongue of the voltage regulator, since it's connected to the center pin of the regulator, which is at a different voltage than the grounded case, so you wouldn't want contact between them. The washer is unnecessary with the output transistors (that I'm familiar with) since the mounting bit of it is the transistors housing which is non conductive (when you look at it, you'll see), but you should still use a washer to spread the clamping force and prevent damage.

Hope this helps a bit, maybe someone else will fill in about the differences in the pads though you'd probably find this in their datasheets..

edit: looks like tomb was typing while I was posting too
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(fortunately slightly diff. stuff)
 
Aug 19, 2007 at 10:56 PM Post #1,102 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by babbkutz@comcast /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have mounting kits T0-220 from Aavid in three flavors (Mica,SG, and Thermalloy..MG SG AND G). Could you go into detail about the use of thermal paste and shoulder washers? I'm using 1" sinks on a MAX with DBs...thanks!


I'm not exactly sure of the designations you're quoting. Thermalloy is just part of the Aavid name, as in Aavid Thermalloy. I'm not sure of the SG, MG, and G designations.

In the last catalog I got from Aavid, they listed three types of transistor mounting insulators:

1. Mica
2. ThermaFilm
3. ThermaSil

The ThermaFilm is just an upgrade from Mica - better electrical insulating quality with better heat transfer. The ThermaSil are pads that are meant to be used without any grease.

For the Mica and ThermaFilm, I apply a thin coating on the back of the transistor first with a small toothpick - sort of swab it around like spreading butter on toast.
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Then line up the Mica insulator hole-to-hole with the back of the transistor and place it on the grease. Don't squish it down. You want all of this to just lay together inline. Screwing the assembly down will mash it all together. Anyway, apply some more grease to the back of the Mica insulator just as you did the transistor. In every case, the Mica insulator is bigger than the transistor. Regardless, I apply the grease to the entire surface of the Mica. It's too much trouble to do otherwise.

Then place the assembly on the surface of the heat sink - again, lining up the holes. Insert the shoulder washer into the tab on the front side of the transistor - the large flat part should face outward from the front of the transistor. Insert the screw through the entire assembly, attach a metal washer if you have one, a lock washer, and the nut. At this point, it really doesn't matter from which direction you insert the screw - just do it in the way that makes it most convenient for removal if needed. In particular, study the two sinks in the center on the MAX, and make your decision on how to orient the screw assemblies on each - they need not be the same.

I like to torque it down pretty good - within reason, given the small precision tools you may be using - don't use a automotive breaking bar tool or something silly like that, though. As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the shoulder washer will not fit on many of the recommended BJT transistors. Usually ones with the metal tabs (TO-220) can use the shoulder washers. In the cases where the shoulder washer won't fit - don't use it. More than likely the transistor is self insulated from the screw anyway.

Hope that helps ...


EDIT: Looks like ruZZ.il was posting while I was typing.
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Aug 20, 2007 at 12:54 AM Post #1,105 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by soloz2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
so how would the max work as a preamp? Like could you run a line from the output pads to be used as a preamp out?


Yes, I believe so. Since the MAX has the relay delay circuit, it should perform splendidly as a preamp.
 
Aug 20, 2007 at 1:03 AM Post #1,106 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, I believe so. Since the MAX has the relay delay circuit, it should perform splendidly as a preamp.


thanks! that's what I thought, but I wanted to make sure
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I'll be adding that feature to mine.

I also started pricing up custom engraved endpanels
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btw, has anyone made a front panel express file for the max?
 
Aug 20, 2007 at 1:20 AM Post #1,107 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, I believe so. Since the MAX has the relay delay circuit, it should perform splendidly as a preamp.


I wonder.. I was asking in another thread if my Mini3 would be useful to get the passive pickup on my violin to a line level for my computer. Would the Max serve the same purpose?
 
Aug 20, 2007 at 11:50 AM Post #1,108 of 6,727
She lives!:

Front
f_DSC01429Larm_212baff.jpg

[size=small](Wood front panels made by forum user naamanf, they look gorgeous btw)[/size]

Back
f_DSC01434Larm_121a18b.jpg



Guts
f_DSC01428Larm_3c5de30.jpg



And to think, all it took was a whole pile of money, some burned fingers and a bit of cursing and swearing.
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Aug 20, 2007 at 12:36 PM Post #1,110 of 6,727
Excuse my cap noobness, but what kind of film caps are those?
 

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