New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp
Mar 20, 2008 at 11:05 AM Post #4,021 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by John Wilson /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My jaw keeps hitting the floor! WOW!! And it's only been alive four hours! I wish you could hear #2. It's perfect, and so musical. You have to try the BG FK's 1000 uf 16V in CA2L/R with the BG 0.47 bypassing them. Trust me on this. Vishay's and Caddock's are the way to go in this one. No kidding. JW


In which locations did you use the Caddock resistors?
 
Mar 20, 2008 at 12:34 PM Post #4,022 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
In which locations did you use the Caddock resistors?


From his pics on pg. 399 and 401 (that one's quoted in your post
wink.gif
), it looks like all of them except the heater, LED, and DB power output resistors.
eek.gif


EDIT:
And I thought the Mills resistors on the DB outputs were expensive ... those Caddocks are ~$7 a piece!!
eek.gif
eek.gif
 
Mar 20, 2008 at 4:34 PM Post #4,023 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
From his pics on pg. 399 and 401 (that one's quoted in your post
wink.gif
), it looks like all of them except the heater, LED, and DB power output resistors.
eek.gif


EDIT:
And I thought the Mills resistors on the DB outputs were expensive ... those Caddocks are ~$7 a piece!!
eek.gif
eek.gif



You are correct. All the 1K ohm...8 total, are the Vishay S102's. JW
DSC_0011-2.jpg
 
Mar 20, 2008 at 4:49 PM Post #4,024 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by John Wilson /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's just a board..nothing more..nothing less. JW


You're right. There really isn't anything special about this board that would make anyone's "jaw keep hitting the floor."

One man's garbage...
 
Mar 20, 2008 at 5:05 PM Post #4,025 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You're right. There really isn't anything special about this board that would make anyone's "jaw keep hitting the floor."

One man's garbage...



I was patiently waiting for this. Please don't over analyzes my statement. I was joking with BMF. JW
 
Mar 21, 2008 at 1:02 AM Post #4,028 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveze /img/forum/go_quote.gif
BMF => Boilermakerfan? Or maybe Bad Mother Fire-trucker? Big Mal the Fishmonger?


Yep, that's me, BMF. I love my username, but it is rather long and BMF can be interpreted in a few funny ways, so I've always just signed my posts with -BMF

My favorite was one somebody posted on another forum, a homebrew forum to be precise, which was Belgian Malted Frosty. I liked that one the best since I tend to favor the Belgium brews...

Thanks to Tom and JW for pointing out that it was all of them except for the Vishays, I'm a newbie, so I didn't want to make assumptions, but I can almost populate two MAX boards with Muse ES, Muse KZ or Silmic caps; VitQs; and RD55 Vishay-Dale resistors for what JW was willing to spend on just resistors. I'm ok with that, as I'm sure JW is too. I need to build (4) MAX boards, (2) Phono stages, and (2) DACs so I'm trying to get the best bang for the dollar. Oh, I almost forgot to add the (2) pairs of speakers, a sub, and(4) stereo tube buffered gainclone amps too.

JW, are you going to replace either of your volume pots with a LDR from SKA? I'm planning to use the SKA LDR kit on my Silmic/VitQ/2238 DB build just to see how different it sounds from a ALPS on the same unit.

- BMF
wink.gif
 
Mar 21, 2008 at 5:35 AM Post #4,029 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by John Wilson /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I was patiently waiting for this. Please don't over analyzes my statement. I was joking with BMF. JW


Sorry man.....seems I'm too touchy when it comes to the MAX!
tongue.gif
 
Mar 21, 2008 at 8:43 AM Post #4,030 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
JW, are you going to replace either of your volume pots with a LDR from SKA? I'm planning to use the SKA LDR kit on my Silmic/VitQ/2238 DB build just to see how different it sounds from a ALPS on the same unit.

- BMF
wink.gif



Maybe sometime in the future. A good pot is VERY important. JW
 
Mar 21, 2008 at 8:27 PM Post #4,032 of 6,727
Without wanting to pee anyone off here or affect anyones business - IMHO the LDR is clearly head and shoulders above an alps blue. So much better it ain't even funny. I have one now installed in a valve pre and also in my new 24V aikido HPA. They work perfectly and sound very clear. When I did a comparison the alps sounded muffled by comparison. And that was just with a MP3 player and crappy POS speakers in the workshop.

A decent stepped pot might give it a better run for its money. The other thing about the LDR is that it is very quiet, ie no added noise. No grounding issues either as the pot is isolated from the circuit and only supplies voltage to the LDRs.

Of course, this won't fit on the max PCB - and I'm not sure if it would fit in one of the hammond cases either. Its not big, but I'm not familiar with those cases. It would be smaller than most stepped pots. Thinking about it, it would be about the same height and depth as the alps pot, but would be wider. There are also input and output wires, PS wiring and a ground wire too.

Fran
 
Mar 22, 2008 at 1:20 AM Post #4,034 of 6,727
Yes, thats it!

The idea is like this:

A resistor in the signal path will attenuate that signal. This is basically what the LDR does, except the resistor that is soldered in, is a special Light Dependent Resistor (LDR) which according how much light is shone on it by a LED can vary it's resistance, so you can have control over the level of music by controlling the amount of brigtness of the LED by a pot which varies the voltage going to the LED. (substantially taken from a post in that thread)

The PITA bit of putting one of these together is that the LDR must be matched for each side and you need to buy a bunch of them to get closely matched ones. Thats why the kit is such a bonus. So the built kit is then powered from your main supply, with an appropriate resistor to adjust for the voltage you have to hand.

Theres a looong thread over on diyaudio:

LDR thread - diyaudio

The kit is available from SKA Audio and he calls it optivol. There is a thread on the ska audio forum about it too.

Disclaimer: I'm not in any way connected with the site - just happy customer and think thats its a great solution to a high quality pot for just AUS$27 (which by my calculation is about USD25).

Fran
 
Mar 22, 2008 at 3:30 AM Post #4,035 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by fran /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, thats it!

The idea is like this:

A resistor in the signal path will attenuate that signal. This is basically what the LDR does, except the resistor that is soldered in, is a special Light Dependent Resistor (LDR) which according how much light is shone on it by a LED can vary it's resistance, so you can have control over the level of music by controlling the amount of brigtness of the LED by a pot which varies the voltage going to the LED. (substantially taken from a post in that thread)

The PITA bit of putting one of these together is that the LDR must be matched for each side and you need to buy a bunch of them to get closely matched ones. Thats why the kit is such a bonus. So the built kit is then powered from your main supply, with an appropriate resistor to adjust for the voltage you have to hand.

Theres a looong thread over on diyaudio:

LDR thread - diyaudio

The kit is available from SKA Audio and he calls it optivol. There is a thread on the ska audio forum about it too.

Disclaimer: I'm not in any way connected with the site - just happy customer and think thats its a great solution to a high quality pot for just AUS$27 (which by my calculation is about USD25).

Fran



Based on pic on SKA for his LDR, it definitely will not fit in the standard Hammond MAX case, but you should be able tomake it fit in the 2" longer case without too much difficulty. The pic of the SKA LDR in the forum thread shows how tiny it actually is.
 

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