[whathat]

I bought a Pailiccs 3.5mm plug and I'm having a fairly difficult time with soldering the wires to the contacts. Are there any tips that someone could provide? Am I suppose to somehow remove the black portion where the contacts are? Those small smooth contacts makes it impossible for me to solder anything on it. I'm fairly new to soldering and new to head-fi forum community. Photo of the connector is here: http://cdn.head-fi.org/e/e3/e37bed15_PA35.jpg
 
Thanks for the help in advance
 
 

 

[wuwhere]

I've soldered on smooth speaker spade connectors before. The trick is to spread some solder first on the connector's surface then solder the wire so that the solder has something to adhere to.

 

[whathat]

Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try.
 
What makes it difficult is that I have a poor soldering iron. No dial to control temperature, just the one that plugs straight into the wall socket. Would you recommend me to purchase a better soldering iron? I'm not sure how frequently I'll be using it but it seems like something that is worth investing in.

 

[liamstrain]

You can get a Stahl SSVT 5-40 watt adjustable soldering iron for $17 that should be worlds ahead of where you are... Probably worth it just to save headaches.
 
 

 

[whathat]

Is there specific solder I should be using? Will the solder affect audio quality? I just using my dad's solder which I think is used for plumbing (since it's really thick). I will actually be returning to a semiconductor company for my co-op term beginning January, and I have access to soldering irons and solder. The problem is I don't want to use their equipment for personal use, so I intend to purchase what I need.

 

[liamstrain]

I just use regular 60/40... no, provided that you get a good solder joint - it will not affect the sound quality. You may want to use a little electronics soldering paste flux (rosin, no clean), to help get a good connection.

 

[whathat]

Thank you! You've been very helpful.

 

[wuwhere]

I just use 62/36/2, 0.022" diameter from Radio Shack, not audiophile grade but I seriously you would hear a difference.
Another trick is after you spread some solder on the connector, drop a bead of solder on the connector, let it harden, place the bare wire on top of it, then heat it.

 

[TheRH]

60/40 is what I usually use and depending on the project I use a tip that is just slightly larger than the surface area. I use a Weller WESD 51 soldering station, well worth the investment. And run around $150. 

 

[TheRH]

I learned a long time ago that the solder tips used in less expansive irons do not last as long and it is nice to have a selection to tips as well.

 

[wuwhere]

If he plans to do more soldering in the future, yes, it would be wise to spend on some good soldering station with variable temp and a good soldering iron with different tips like a Hakko 936, which I have. And a multimeter to check for cold solder and shorts.

 

[TheRH]

Yes, a multimeter, multiple tips, and digital control helps tremendously. I had a 936 but I switched to the Weller because you do not have to calibrate the station and solder tips are readily available.

 

[TheRH]

Oh, what iron are you using by the way?

 

[whathat]

I have absolutely no clue what iron it is, but I do know it is absolute garbage and its probably 10-15 years old. But at my age, I don't think I'll spend too much on my first soldering iron.

 

[TheRH]

I have been working with electronics and soldering for 10+ years and I am in my mid 20's. I am not sure what age you are but investing $50 or so is not a lot if you want a quality iron that will not break the bank and yet get the job done well.
 
As a nice iron that will last and not break the bank I would reccomend the Weller WP35, it is a well made iron and has replacable parts and tips.
 
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/product/Weller/WP35
 
To learn how to solder properly, watch this video:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
 
This explains how to prepare to solder, solder properly, and what a solder should look like,