My first PCB design.
Dec 3, 2008 at 2:47 PM Post #31 of 34
Also, if I was going to bother with having a pcb made for a CMOY (or A47) I would board mount the pot (Alps RK097 w/switch from Tangent) and probably the input and output jacks as well. Those are the things that are the biggest pain in the ass to wire up, and take up the most room with their wiring. Eliminating that makes for a much easier build as well as a much more reliable amp.
 
Dec 3, 2008 at 11:31 PM Post #32 of 34
Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What are the analog grounds supposed to connect to?
Are you planning on soldering them directly to the copper layer?



Another thing I totally missed. I'm used to PTP on perf board so I see a mutual hole and leave it at that. Probably not a good idea on a PCB.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaKi][er /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What's with the big gap in the ground plane under the opamp?


I was informed that the ground plane under the opamp is a bad idea. I'm going to default to Tangent on this one.

Quote:

No capacitors from the rails to the ground? That is the return path of the current from your headphones to keep your ground low Z at high frequencies, the TLE cant do it all by itself.


Uhmm.. Not really sure how to respond to this. I have used tle2426 in a cmoy before without any rail caps after the splitter other than .1uf on the V+and V-. It seems to work just fine.

Quote:

These caps and TLE should be right where the ground return comes in as well, else it has to go right through where your sensitive feedback loop is


Notice the traces coming off the V+ and V- pins for ceramic caps. Everything is connected to the ground plane
anyway. Moving it a few mm closer isn't going to help much.
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Also, if I was going to bother with having a pcb made for a CMOY (or A47) I would board mount the pot (Alps RK097 w/switch from Tangent) and probably the input and output jacks as well. Those are the things that are the biggest pain in the ass to wire up, and take up the most room with their wiring. Eliminating that makes for a much easier build as well as a much more reliable amp.


First. Those board mount connectors are 1/3 the size of this board. Way too big.
Second. Doing it that way locks me into buying one type of component and not just whats available.

Edit:
Added through holes for input and output ground at the top and bottom right as well as traces and holes for L and R out.
Per tangent I used the photoshop save for web feature and reduced the size of these considerably.

Update. I moved the whole design over to diptrace and it's finished on par with this one. With the express software it is still easier to show whats going on. So I'm using that for the pics.

The only change in these is I have moved the Input and Output grounds closer to the TLE.


 
Dec 4, 2008 at 4:31 AM Post #33 of 34
Alright What? Eagle will not stay open for more than 5 seconds or so. Anyone know why?
I am already over this POS and I haven't even used it yet! I am a surveyor by trade and I have used many different cad programs. I have never had a problem like this. Me=Angry

Edit: I don't care how much support the DIY forums offer for eagle. I refuse to use it. If your just learning PCB layout, do your self a favor and stay far away. I just downloaded the freeware version of diptrace five minutes ago and I already have all my pads and holes imported from express.

http://www.diptrace.com/download.php
 
Dec 7, 2008 at 9:22 PM Post #34 of 34
I submitted my design to batchpcb and passed all DRC. Looks like these are gonna work out fine.

Warning. This design is untested and will be until I receive my order. Use at your own risk.
 

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