wje
Unmodified = Not worth listening to.
Very nice work! You have the right tools for the job and it's great to see creativity in action.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
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My wife got me a drill press of my own for x-mas. I need to get some forstner bits of my own and I plan to start pumping out some wood cups for you guys, at an affordable price, think $10 - $40 per pair depending on wood type. Need to experiment with techniques first though.
pwyll, I may some time down the road, but at the moment I don't have the time to produce them on any given schedule. Work has be pretty busy, as well as some legal things going on in the personal life. I plan to buy a nice lathe or shop smith, though. Then I will be able to produce cups at low cost, and at my own residence. I have been doing most of my work at my parents when it comes to cup turning, however.
I did get an afternoon to finish the custom gimbals!
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Other than some ideas with the suspension pins, these cans are done! Really nothing left to mod on them now.
Lund sThe first thing I noticed after putting them on was the l-cush pads are now.much more comfortable with the driver further away from the ear.
The highs are not as harsh, softer and similar to my sennheiser he 280 cans. The bass is much more present as well, not so much left in the background as before. I am not a huge basshead but I like my trance and rock to have some body to it and a present beat through out. A lot of the trance I listen to haas a ot of bass tracks that now more defined and noticible. The mids are still pretty much the same, smooth.
I listen to them every chance I get, and don't feel that I wasted any time or money in them!
The soundstage is much better as well, which is what I was aiming for with the 11.5mm distancers.
pwyll, I may some time down the road, but at the moment I don't have the time to produce them on any given schedule. Work has be pretty busy, as well as some legal things going on in the personal life. I plan to buy a nice lathe or shop smith, though. Then I will be able to produce cups at low cost, and at my own residence. I have been doing most of my work at my parents when it comes to cup turning, however.
I did get an afternoon to finish the custom gimbals!
They are made from 3" diameter aluminum tubing, with a 1/4" wall and 2.5" inner diameter.
I had no way of cutting through such large pipe, nor did my dad's shop. So I added another tool to my own "shop" (read "shed"), and bought a 14" heavy duty cut off saw with a 24 grit wheel.
This cut through the tubing with ease, and quickly. A bit rough edge, but nothing some sanding didn't take care of. I started with 80 grit to get the deep scratches out from the cut, then worked up to 120, 220, 320, 400, 600 and finished with 800, which left a nice shine!
Next up was to drill the holes for the adjusting rods and the cup suspension pins. I also cut a notch for the cable on the left side ring. The adjusting rod hole was tapped to 6-32 to accommodate the 6-32 threaded 1/8" stainless steel rod used. The suspension pins are made from the same 1/8" stainless steel rod and cut at 11/16" lengths, nothing done to make them pretty but file the rough cut edges.
Here are the rings with all corresponding parts, layed out. The black caps for the adjusting rods are recycled from the stock Grado gimbals. The same 1/8" shaft collars with tap screws were reused, and 1/8" o-rings are used between the cup and the gimbal to keep things centered and uniform.
I pained the rings satin black, however when the finances allow, I plan to have them powder coated semi-gloss black, to avoid scratches and chips down the road. For now, they look pretty darn nice!
And even better on the headphones!
I'm not 100% comfortable with the press and friction fit of the suspension pins, and am currently playing with ideas to make the more secure, for more peace of mind they won't come apart at inconvenient times.
Other than some ideas with the suspension pins, these cans are done! Really nothing left to mod on them now.
Asthonisching result, intresting would be to know, at what cost you did get this result considering the RS2i cost 499 USD, and come they Close to the Sound of the latter?
Why did you choose the SR80i instead of the 60, because those are cheaper and you actually rebuild the whole Thing so that only the divers matter, wich brings us to the Driver question, but as far as I could read the Prestige Serie have all the same Driver, or how do you see this?