gmeardi
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Posts
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I've just ordered a new VDAC-II and I'd like to use it as an hi-quality car inside my car (Audi A4 with Bang & Olufsen 7.1 500W option).
I'm currently using a Beresford Caiman (that I had in house, unused) and sounds excellent, but is a pain to use in the back of the car, where the AUX Audio inputs are (I've to switch it on anytime I power the car, and then manually select the optical input...).
I'd like to directly use the 12V from car battery, but I woudn't like destroying my new DAC...
Might you please advise on how to do this? Do I need a using a fuse?
Many thanks in advance!
UPDATE:
the Musical Fidelity VDAC-II has just arrived.
I can say that the Caiman, after just a few comparisons, seems sounding just a bit better (to low frequencies, basses) than my very very new VDAC-II. Even if we've to consider that:
1. the VDAC-II has been switched on for just 30 minutes (no burn-in yet)
2. the Caiman has a by far better power supply (2.4A vs 0.5A at 12V).
The VDAC-II has the big advantage (for car usage) that is always on and has a physical switch to select optical or usb input. So it can work completely unattended in the back of my car...
I keep asking - if anybody knows - if and how could be better to power the VDAC directly from the car 12V battery (with no 12-220-12V conversions).
Meanwhile I'll do better tests between these two (anyhow excellent) DACs.
I'm currently using a Beresford Caiman (that I had in house, unused) and sounds excellent, but is a pain to use in the back of the car, where the AUX Audio inputs are (I've to switch it on anytime I power the car, and then manually select the optical input...).
I'd like to directly use the 12V from car battery, but I woudn't like destroying my new DAC...
Might you please advise on how to do this? Do I need a using a fuse?
Many thanks in advance!
UPDATE:
the Musical Fidelity VDAC-II has just arrived.
I can say that the Caiman, after just a few comparisons, seems sounding just a bit better (to low frequencies, basses) than my very very new VDAC-II. Even if we've to consider that:
1. the VDAC-II has been switched on for just 30 minutes (no burn-in yet)
2. the Caiman has a by far better power supply (2.4A vs 0.5A at 12V).
The VDAC-II has the big advantage (for car usage) that is always on and has a physical switch to select optical or usb input. So it can work completely unattended in the back of my car...
I keep asking - if anybody knows - if and how could be better to power the VDAC directly from the car 12V battery (with no 12-220-12V conversions).
Meanwhile I'll do better tests between these two (anyhow excellent) DACs.