[szore]

So they recommended the UltraRendu instead of the OpticalRendu to connect to your DAC? Then from your DAC to the LP?

Yeah, it was a little confusing...I won't be ready to buy until about a month...he said optical, but then he said cat 6 out...LOL I'm not sure! Let me sit with the Yaggy for a month, then I will contact them and work it out... right now, the Yggy is cold and it is unreal...hypnotising and addictive...I never been in this place musically before... I am at a loss for words right now....

 

[MikeW]

after 24 hours of burn in, the caps are starting to open up a bit. New caps always have a congested/nasal type sound, so I never like to comment to soon. They still need more burn in time, but it's an improvement with regards to bass Punch (not bass quantity) and a bit less "haziness" which can be a good or bad thing depending on one's preference. I feel like the high's are more clear, with less tingle/fringe on the edges. I look forward to a fully burned in listen. These obersvations would make sense if the caps are simply lower noise, lower esr, and higher performance. Just less distortion. I do wonder what the designer would have chosen, if price was no object. As these 6 caps cost about 12$, i'd imagine the spec'ed ones are probably 3-4$. That adds up when your making tens of thousands of units. So one must consider if it's not a matter of preferred voicing, but one of economics.

 

[malocadi]

What tubes are good with these?

 

[MikeW]

48 hrs burn in done.. caps continue to open up and lose congestion. So I can say, these are a clear upgrade in many ways, and as usual with capacitor upgrades, they are a voicing component, and some may prefer one over the other. At first impressions these are more to my taste however. As I would switch back and forth sometimes between the headphone output on my ADI-2 and the LP, the LP was more enjoyable, and the better amp, however, I would sometimes find myself missing clairty and detail, and bass punch. This was a stark contrast when moving from one amp to the other, and not a knock against either amp, they are just different. Anyways, i feel these cap mods have cleaned up the high's a bit, and improved bass punch, with slightly less bass quantity, everything is cleaner, and dynamics are improved, staging is a bit more forward, like i've moved up a couple of rows, this aides dynamics and staging as it gives the instruments room to spread. Im quite happy with the results, im sure these capacitors are objectively better, however one may prefer either for subjective reasons. If you find yourself wanting more clairty/detail, noticing small instruments deep in the mix, better "Speed", better bass punch, and what I'd consider a more accurate bass quantity, then you may consider this upgrade. If you want "Smooth, and homogeneous" you may wish to stick to the stock configuration. I never heard the "Original mod" configuration, which had a different cap in the XLR configuration (another Silmic II, 100 UF, 25 v), that cap was later changed out to a preferred Nichicon UKZ, and that is the configuration i went with. A few people somewhere else tried a few different caps, mostly of either silmic or nichicon muse, in various positions and came to the conclusion they preferred the UKZ in that XLR position, for improved bass response.

Edit: im pretty sure those 470 UF stock caps are panasonic FM's.. they are a "Good" cap, but they definately impart their own sonic charteristic on the signal, namely high end "sizzle" and a mid boost. This is well documented as that cap's been around 20 years or more, very easy to find many comparison in diy audio forums of various type discussing the merits of panasonic vs silmic II vs Nichicon KZ.. the fm is not quite in the same league, but it's not garbage either. Likely selected for it's cost, and form factor. looking at the stock parts, it's obvious that thought and care was put into the selection, good quality, good price, good form factor. It makes sense, people's observation that tubes make a bigger impact after the swap, as the botique parts are more transparent for sure, your hearing "less" of the capacitor, and "more" of the tube.

 

[MikeW]

So, I have some 12AU7 socket adapters that i've had sitting in a drawer for a year, never did try them. Is the consensus that it's safe to run 12AU7 in the LP? and also, do you guys "Stack" a socket saver first, and then put your adapter in the socket saver and then the tube? so that you can actually remove the socket adapter and try other tubes? is there anything wrong with this approach? was thinking of getting some tube monger socket savers and sticking my 12AU7 adapter into that first.

I've not done a ton of tube rolling, i've tried a few different pairs, but nothing too fancy, largly, because I have hardware PEQ at my dispossal and I use it to do whatever I want, my stock tubes sound very very different with a little EQ applied. I mostly use it as a harmon-curve to equal out the headphones im using, that is the primary application. I sometimes will make minor adjustments *after* that, but once an appropriate curve is found, tailored to the *headphone* it pretty much stays in place, and the tube rolling begins.

 

[Guidostrunk]

Been using 12au7 since I acquired my LP. No issues whatsoever.

So, I have some 12AU7 socket adapters that i've had sitting in a drawer for a year, never did try them. Is the consensus that it's safe to run 12AU7 in the LP? and also, do you guys "Stack" a socket saver first, and then put your adapter in the socket saver and then the tube? so that you can actually remove the socket adapter and try other tubes? is there anything wrong with this approach? was thinking of getting some tube monger socket savers and sticking my 12AU7 adapter into that first.

I've not done a ton of tube rolling, i've tried a few different pairs, but nothing too fancy, largly, because I have hardware PEQ at my dispossal and I use it to do whatever I want, my stock tubes sound very very different with a little EQ applied. I mostly use it as a harmon-curve to equal out the headphones im using, that is the primary application. I sometimes will make minor adjustments *after* that, but once an appropriate curve is found, tailored to the *headphone* it pretty much stays in place, and the tube rolling begins.

 

[Guidostrunk]

I dont use socket savers with the adapters

 

[MikeW]

I dont use socket savers with the adapters

I have an original LP with very stiff sockets, i can't imagine that tube adapter would ever come out once it's in, without taking the amp apart. I don't really like the idea of it being permanent

 

[ksorota]

I have an original LP with very stiff sockets, i can't imagine that tube adapter would ever come out once it's in, without taking the amp apart. I don't really like the idea of it being permanent

In order to get the adapters out you use a pair of channel locks, press down on the cover to flex the top down a little then grasp firmly on edges of the adapters. Pull gently with consistent tension until it comes out.

You cannot slide the board out of the casing with the adapters in... the only way is out the top.

I’ve done this multiple times with no damage to the unit, can scuff up the adapter though.

 

[MikeW]

In order to get the adapters out you use a pair of channel locks, press down on the cover to flex the top down a little then grasp firmly on edges of the adapters. Pull gently with consistent tension until it comes out.

You cannot slide the board out of the casing with the adapters in... the only way is out the top.

I’ve done this multiple times with no damage to the unit, can scuff up the adapter though.

Yeah, i gathered from some info I gleaned, that folks take the back of the unit off and use a long screwdriver to get between the socket and adapter and pry it up. That's why i'd considered a socket saver + adapter, is there any negative to this approach other then cost? the tube monger socket savers are a little pricey around 28$ each. Made in the usa with anti vibration at least.

I often ponder if im just spinning my wheels with tube rolling, considering the aforementioned PEQ, that im not afraid to use. PEQ is such a powerful tool to customize audio to your preference. Once understood, it works so well, and if done at the hardware level, you don't have to worry about dumb crap like software compatibility, windows mixer, software running in the background, none of that nonsense, you get clean, hardware applied EQ, across all input sources, no matter if it's a game, youtube, your music app, etc.

So it becomes more a question of the tubes technical capability, more then it's EQ curve. Is the tube technicallty superior then the other, does it offer a more pleasing harmonic distortion, because it's EQ is rather moot, need more bass? no problem, want more high's? got you covered.. it's the things that can't be tweaked that matter, like sound stage, 3d, etc.

I love hardware based EQ, and will never be without it again. Software is such a pain in the ass, I don't even think you can get EQ on qubouz or tidal, at least not without jumping though a bunch of hoops, then it only applies to those apps, what a hassle. I actually have a Schiit hardware EQ that i've stored, refuse to sell it, lol just in case I one day move away from my ADI-2, i'll at least have some form of hardware EQ.

Can't say much bad about the ADI-2.. i've owned a few amps and dac's over the years, it's my favorite product ever. Period, full stop. The headphone amp is only middling, but I could happily live with it as an all in one if I was forced to. The featureset, and dac is excellent, and the amp's short-coming's are largely rectified by the units built in PEQ. It make's it very hard to move back to "just a dac", even one as great as a Yggy. I previously owned a Jotunheim + multibit module, and i'd take the ADI-2 all day long, not even a close comparison. The amps are not so far apart, but everything else is drastically better on the ADI.

 

[snailmeat]

Picked one up at the current sale price of $399.90.

 

[havagr8da]

I hit that buy button on the sale too. What a bargain for a great little amp. Smiles delivered immediately Kann Cube XLR out Silver Dragon cable to the LP listening with Grado RS1e Dlack Dragon balanced cable. Heavenly!

 

[Magic77]

I’m interested in getting this amp, but have a couple of questions. Do you definitely need a source with a balanced output to connect it to the balanced input. For example, I have a CD player with only unbalanced outputs. I know I could use it single ended, but am more interested in the balanced.

 

[A Jedi]

Do you definitely need a source with a balanced output to connect it to the balanced input.

No.

 

[Magic77]

No.

So, are you saying I would just need RCA to XLR adapters?