[ardilla]

^ nice!  how did the sound change - do you have specifications of the small blue ones?

 

[Waluch]

Now it sounds more spacious, wider and deeper in sound stage, a lot more micro-dynamics,bass is  more punchy and faster than in original
 
These small Philips are
 
PP FILM FOILS CAPACITORS
KP AX EPOXY LACQUARED
1000pF +/- 1% 400V
 
I forgot to write that I have original output caps - Green Nichicon Muse

 

[wiiman]

Waluch, Tell something about Your power supply. It looks awsome !!! How Muse sound equiped with that ?

 

[Waluch]

Hi wiiman, sound with new power supply became more coherent, separation  between every instrument is better, bass is little deeper now. Moreover MUSE is now less warmer than before (with original crappy PSU)

PSU also include ON/OFF switch, it is very comfortable to use now,  because MUDE DAC haven`t got any.
 
 

 

[curiousmuffin]

where can i order a psu like yours, waluch? I cant even seem to find the product on their website ;/

 

[Waluch]

Mine PSU was first prototype unit, built for me. For a two weeks PSUs will be in normal distribution.

I think you could write them an e-mail to order your unit and talk about details. 

 

[curiousmuffin]

may i ask how much it cost you?

 

[Waluch]

I wrote you PM
 
 

 

[curiousmuffin]

i'm going to have to give this dac a try.
 
i still remember my old modded lite ah for having a sweeter sound than dac 60 that it replaced. and to me this muse dac seem to have more potential than lite ah simply from being able to use an external power supply. 
 
expect some crazy things to come like russian oil cap bypass per 1543 and oversized everything else- when I mod I make it ugly! >

 

[curiousmuffin]

ok, n/m. I'm going to go with sapientiam's mods.
 
Sapientiam, please tell us how to do the absolute phase mod. Everything else seem like walk in the park compared to lifting the smd legs. 
 
 
Also do you think it's beneficial to go with +1000uf power supply caps? 

 

[dippy]

Greetings to everyone.
I recently purchased this DAC because of the potential for mods and low price. Mostly because of the low price.

I have checked the regulator for the DIR 9001and its the 3.3v one so we're good there. Mine is the one with the white PCB board. It sounds pretty good unmodded and the I rather like the slight top end roll off which I would describe as organic sounding.

I would like to first upgrade the resistors on the I/V stage. (the 3 resistors near the LEDs). Do I have to change all 3 of them of just the 2 680ohm ones?

Edit: I just realized that all the resistors on the analog side should be changed.

Has anybody had any experience with tantalum resistors?

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/350231356583?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

@curiousmuffin My stock DAC already has a 1000uF capacitor (the one near the DC jack) How about a 22,000uF?

 

[curiousmuffin]

wua nelly, dippy. now we're talking. so no adverse effect whatsoever from tagging on such huge caps? would my battery drain quicker should i decide to go lipo power? 
 
 
as for resistors, if you want to go all out (along with 22k uf cap ), caddock carbon film is the way to go. i don't know whether they'll need a cooling fan in this application but i do know that there's no substitute to it's sound.  
 
 

 

[]eep]

It is allways nice to see ppl getting started on modding. But do you actually know what you are doing? I mean, snubbering a 10uF electrolite with a 1nF MKP is hardly worth the effort. That is 1:10,000. The 0,5uF PiO is way more effective and better. That accounts for 99.5% of the effect you hear.

But What? That size for a 0.5uF? I know about the expression "thinking outside the box" but using those huge caps in a sigarettebox size enclosure is hardly what that expression is normally used for. :confused_face_2:

Why don you start reading this thread from page 16 or so to get to the real worthwhile mods. Remember: the best sounding cap is no cap. Go with Proids mods and you will hear a real worthwhile improvement. All you need between the 1543 output leg and the RCA plug is a 200Ohm resistor between signal and ground. No caps needed whatsoever.

About the powersupply. I have trouble believing your description of the improvements. I tried it with a Teradak PS and I heard no improvement whatsoever. Sorry. If you want to try what it sounds like with the cleanest possible power why not try 6 batteries? The PS you showed looks the works. I am really curious where you got it and what it costs. Why keep it a secret? It's not like someone will buy the whole 10 year supply or something... I have a sneaking suspicion all the effort and money is hardly worth the effort.


Since when is a severe unintentional high roll-off a good thing? Why throw away information?

I would like to first upgrade the resistors on the I/V stage. (the 3 resistors near the LEDs). Do I have to change all 3 of them of just the 2 680ohm ones?

You don't. Just add a 4k over R01 and V goes from 7.63 to 7V. Or replace it for 450Ohm. Or bridge 1.5k or replace w/ 400Ohm for 6V.

 

[curiousmuffin]

hehe even teralink users don't report much of any improvement with that powersupply, jeep.
 
 
 
 

 

[Sapientiam]

Quote:

ok, n/m. I'm going to go with sapientiam's mods.
 
Sapientiam, please tell us how to do the absolute phase mod. Everything else seem like walk in the park compared to lifting the smd legs. 
 
 
Also do you think it's beneficial to go with +1000uf power supply caps? 

The absolute phase mod is done by reusing a gate in the HC00 which got freed up when I deleted the optical input. If you don't want to do any leg-lifting on SO packages, you can just add another inverter device - perhaps a pico-gate would to it. Lifting legs though is easy - just a sharp scalpel point and soldering iron does the trick. As to your power supply question, I doubt its any benefit.