[amb]

Nospam, no resistor in the Millett comes close to dissipating 1/8W, so RN55s will work just fine.

 

[Nospam]

Thanks!

Good to know, but now I have to ask, just because I'm that way

Why are 1/4W resistors called out in the parts list, if 1/8W are OK?

 

[Clutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nospam Thanks! Good to know, but now I have to ask, just because I'm that way Why are 1/4W resistors called out in the parts list, if 1/8W are OK?

Probably cause they are the most commonly available.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nospam Why are 1/4W resistors called out in the parts list, if 1/8W are OK?

The board is laid out to accept the bigger RN60 series resistors. There are some who claim that the RN60 sounds better than the RN55, but I am not a believer.

 

[diskostu]

Do I need to connect the alps pot to the alps ground pad on the original revised millet board?

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by diskostu Do I need to connect the alps pot to the alps ground pad on the original revised millet board?

Odds are that if you do not you will have a grounding problem with the metal pot shaft of the alps. It will likely buzz when you are touching it. In my opinion it's safer to ground it as I've never had a problem by doing this, but I've certainly had issues when I did not.

My 2¢,

Nate

 

[diskostu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher In my opinion it's safer to ground it as I've never had a problem by doing this, but I've certainly had issues when I did not. My 2¢, Nate

Did you used the top left screw on the back of the alps for the ground connection (like wrapping the wire around the screw)?

Thanks

-David

 

[Blooze]

Quote:

Originally Posted by diskostu Did you used the top left screw on the back of the alps for the ground connection (like wrapping the wire around the screw)? Thanks -David

Yep, that's the place I did mine and it cured that buzz you get Nate was talking about. Just wrapped it around the screw and soldered the other end to the pad for ground.

 

[jerb]

quick question: it's my understanding that the gain in this amp is pretty much set and not much can be done to change that, however I find my volume is way too sensitive right now. what can be done to change that? right now I listen to the amp with the volume knob around 7 to 8, Id like to have a little more range of motion in the ALPs pot.... what should I do?

 

[dsavitsk]

The 12FK6 has a gain of about half that of the 12ae6a (12fm6 is right between them) so you might switch tubes. Other than that, the 12ae6a datasheet says that a 1M grid resistor will cut the gain from 17 to 15, which is probably not so useful.

 

[nikongod]

any thoughts on using the 1m ohm grid resistor on the 12fk6's?

 

[diskostu]

I built up two boards: one that uses the BOM from diyforums.org and the other uses the same BOM with the exception of C7, which Elna Cerafine 470 uF. I'm powering them with the Elpac power supply, it's rated at 24C, 0.75A from the same BOM.

When I try to turn on either boards the power supply dies. It goes from 24V to ~2V and the LED's flicker. I think the inrush current is tripping some protection circuit in the power supply. If I take the tubes out it powers up fine and the LED's light up. Has anyone else had the same problem?

-David

 

[n_maher]

David,

What are the details of your power supply, specifically it's rated maximum current? I have used 24V/450mA supplies without a problem but I wouldn't go much below that.

Nate

 

[diskostu]

Nate,

I'm using the Elpac FW1824 from the diyforums BOM. It's rated at 24V, 0.75A max. I figured out that it is the inrush current that's shutting down the power supply. If I leave the tubes out and turn the amp on the LED's flicker until the circuit has stablized (caps charged). If I leave the tubes in the LED's flicker and the power supply outputs ~2V. Here's the catch, if I first power on the amp without the tubes then put in the tubes the amp works.

Once I get the two Millets cased, I need to build a couple of Steps. It'll be a couple of months till I get them cased up.

-David

 

[busta]

Hey guys, I have a quick question that I'm sure has been asked many times before, but I have not seen an answer to.

If someone could please roughball an answer as to how much a Millet would cost to build with standard parts (not really premium grade stuff), what would be the figure? I need to do a Senior project for school and I'm debating as to whether I want to build the PPA or the Millet. I would really like to hear the warm sound of the tubes for myself but I want to save money while doing so.

Thanks!