[n_maher]

Just wanted to let folks know that a limited number of Diamond Buffer PCBs are available in the Group Buy Forum.

Happy listening,

Nate

 

[2426]

What are the recommended cases for the Millett? I'm not looking to spend much, just to get the job done so I don't need any uber-expensive cases. Also, so from what I hear, it would be best to get a TREAD over a ELPAC right? If so, could you please recommend me a wall-wart to go with the TREAD. Thanks.

 

[NeilR]

The Hammond 1455160x case is listed on the BOM on the main Millet page. That case will exactly fit the board. A Tread is a little better than an Elpac, and a Steps is a little better than a Tread. If you go with the Tread and the 1455160x case you will have to figure out where to put the Tread because it will not fit in that case with the Millet board. You could get the longer Hammond case (8" long) and you may be able to fit the Tread in the back.

You could get a 24 VAC wall wart from Digikey or Mouser for the Tread. Or you could get a 24 VDC wall wart and leave out the bridge on the Tread. Whatever you do, you will draw 200 - 250 mA from the power supply so you need a decent size transformer. You will probably want to run the supply at up to 27V so you want to over specify the transformer to make sure it will deliver that voltage through the regulator. I used this transformer myself, with a Tread, it is rated at 24 VAC 700ma. You can get a cheaper one from Mouser rated at 400ma or so.

 

[xSolsticex]

The 8.66x4.06x2.09 Hammond case (1455N2201, 1455N2201BK, 1455N2202, 1455N2202BK @ Digikey) will fit both the Millett board and the TREAD board without a problem.

 

[AndrewTosh]

I've seen people reference apuresound.com/ATAT/BoMs.xls, but it 404s. Does anyone know where I can find a mirror?

 

[ATAT]

Hey andrew, that's my BoM.. i think [Ak] might have removed it temporarily, but I can always just email it to you... pm me your email address

 

[[AK]Zip]

Sorry guys its case sensitive.

http://apuresound.com/ATAT/boms.xls

-Alex-

 

[peterpan188]

Hi, does anyone know the part number for screws and nuts that will fit the Neutrik NJ3FP6 locking 1/4" jack, from either Mouser or digikey? Is there any screws that can be use as subsitute to the ones used in Hammond cases?

Thank you

 

[NeilR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterpan188 Hi, does anyone know the part number for screws and nuts that will fit the Neutrik NJ3FP6 locking 1/4" jack, from either Mouser or digikey? Is there any screws that can be use as subsitute to the ones used in Hammond cases? Thank you

The Neutrik jacks use 4-40 nuts and screws. RatShack sells an assortment pack if you get desperate

The Hammond cases will take a 6-32 if you tap it. If you are going to do that, don't install the supplied self tapping screws if you haven't done that yet. It keeps the holes cleaner.

 

[peterpan188]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR The Neutrik jacks use 4-40 nuts and screws. RatShack sells an assortment pack if you get desperate The Hammond cases will take a 6-32 if you tap it. If you are going to do that, don't install the supplied self tapping screws if you haven't done that yet. It keeps the holes cleaner.

Umm, I am sorry that I didn't quite understand what you mean by "tap". Never really done any sort of hand tools work before.

I found some 4-40 screws from McMaster-Carr, 90275A113 and 90760A005, do they look good.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterpan188 Umm, I am sorry that I didn't quite understand what you mean by "tap". Never really done any sort of hand tools work before. I found some 4-40 screws from McMaster-Carr, 90275A113 and 90760A005, do they look good.

To "tap" means to make female threads in a hole. What Neil is referring to is that the Hammond cases come with 6-32 self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws use a coarse thread with a low pitch (small number of threads per inch). For instance, instead of "32", it might be "10".

The advantage to self tapping screws is that you don't need a tap - a special tool that cuts the threads in the hole for the proper screw, such as the 6-32. The disadvantage to self-tapping screws is that the threads are not as robust, and cross-threading is very easy. Often, self-tapping screw threads will not last more than a half-dozen times of screwing/unscrewing the screws - especially if the metal is Aluminum, as in the Hammond case.

There is no reason that tapped threads with standard screws can't last indefinitely. The tapping tool is actually not much different than a drill bit, and usually a numbered (specific odd size) drill bit is matched/included with a tap. These may not cost much more than a few dollars each in the sizes we're talking about (4-40, 6-32), especially if you go to some place like Harbor Freight.

Neil is also stating that if you use the self-tapping screws first, you've pretty much "screwed" up the holes for a regular tap. You would have to go to the next larger sized tap, but by that time, there wouldn't be enough metal left around the hole to hold the threads.

I hope that helped, rather than confused things for you.

 

[peterpan188]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb To "tap" means to make female threads in a hole. What Neil is referring to is that the Hammond cases come with 6-32 self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws use a coarse thread with a low pitch (small number of threads per inch). For instance, instead of "32", it might be "10". The advantage to self tapping screws is that you don't need a tap - a special tool that cuts the threads in the hole for the proper screw, such as the 6-32. The disadvantage to self-tapping screws is that the threads are not as robust, and cross-threading is very easy. Often, self-tapping screw threads will not last more than a half-dozen times of screwing/unscrewing the screws - especially if the metal is Aluminum, as in the Hammond case. There is no reason that tapped threads with standard screws can't last indefinitely. The tapping tool is actually not much different than a drill bit, and usually a numbered (specific odd size) drill bit is matched/included with a tap. These may not cost much more than a few dollars each in the sizes we're talking about (4-40, 6-32), especially if you go to some place like Harbor Freight. Neil is also stating that if you use the self-tapping screws first, you've pretty much "screwed" up the holes for a regular tap. You would have to go to the next larger sized tap, but by that time, there wouldn't be enough metal left around the hole to hold the threads. I hope that helped, rather than confused things for you.

I see what you mean, Thanks tomb, thats some great help there.

I haven't done the casing for my millet hybrid yet, but I had the experience with hammond cases when I built my PIMETA, so I want to use a screw altogether since the screw that came with hammond is very easily busted.

For my PIMETA, I have already installed the self-tapping screw that came with case, so does that mean I can't really do much about it, since i need to tap for a larger size, but I don't have enough metal around the hole?

 

[NeilR]

Peterpan,

I think you will get different opinions on the issue of tapping the Hammonds after you install the self tapping screws. There may not be an "absolute truth" here. I put the self tapping screws in my first Hammond case and later tapped it after reading the discsussions here. I did not have a problem, but that does not mean I wasn't lucky. It may also depend on the condition of the self tapping threads, meaning that after a number of cycles, a 6-32 tap might not work as well since more metal has been removed. My recollection is that I had not yet stripped the threads when I tapped it.

Regards,
Neil

 

[mb3k]

Tip: When you're tapping, use some WD-40. It makes it easier to tap and puts less stress on the case and tap bit, trust me, I've broken a few at work

 

[mb3k]

For a question of my own:


For C7 I will be putting in 470uF caps but I'm unsure of a few things...

I was thinking of the Cerafine 470uF/35V (ROA473 from WelborneLabs) for C7, which is 0.7 x 1.0 inches (17.78 x 25.4 mm). This will be a size issue, if I'm not mistaken, because it exceeds the max of 16mm diameter.

So a change in C1 will have to be made: replace C1 with a dimensionally smaller Cerafine 100uf/35V (ROA103 instead of ROA104) 0.4 x 0.8 which is approx the size of C2 (ROA220)

A few questions now. Should I change all of C1, C9, and C10 to the new 35V 100uF caps, or is it okay to change C1 to 35V and leave C9 and C10 to be 100V 100uF caps?
Does anyone know the pin spacing of the new C7 (Cerafine 470uF/35V ROA473 from WelborneLabs)? Hopefully it's still 7.5mm.

My alternate route is to purchase standard Blackgate 470uF 50V caps (16 x 36 mm) for C7 and leave all the other electrolytics as per the BOM on the main page.
Any recommendations?