[Thaddy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerb A quick skim didnt bring up the awnser I needed, what tube is the prefered favorite? I've seen the 12AE6A, 12FM6, and 12FK6 floating around so what is everyones favorite?

In both Millet's I've owned (one with and one without the STEPS) I've preferred the 12FK6's for the majority of my music. The 12AE6A's see some playing time whenever I'm in the mood for a tad bit extra *oomph* in the low end.

 

[jerb]

Thanks tot he two above reply's, I hadent heard of ambs site, its very nice though.

 

[CedMan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdon FYI, they do work. Quote: Originally Posted by mrdon For C7L/R would Tangent's ELNA Cerafine 470µF/25V caps work?

Finished my first Millet, just wondering about this for my second one, I thought the instruction mentioned that it should be at least 35V? Would it be okay to use that or I will be risking something?

Thanks!

-Ced

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CedMan Finished my first Millet, just wondering about this for my second one, I thought the instruction mentioned that it should be at least 35V? Would it be okay to use that or I will be risking something?

To be on the safe side, they should be a minimum of 35V (provided you're using a 24V power supply). The reason for this is to allow some sort of headroom over and above what the power supply might output. In most configurations these caps will see much less voltage (whatever you have the bias set to) but if you've ever experienced an exploding cap you know why it's a bad thing. In the end it's a matter of personal risk, in the audio realm I doubt you'll hear the difference between a 35 or 25V cap. You may have a harder time finding the cap value you're looking for (470/35) but might I suggest taking a peak at this site and seeing if you can find something that'll work

. Disclaimer(s): A. I'm not associated with that site but have used them in the past with decent results, B. I have never used that particular cap in a Millett and its size should be checked for fit before ordering.

HTH,

Nate

 

[SHLim]

Hi n_maher,
What is your R1 and R2 value for Steps? I ordered the board and is now getting the bits for it.

TIA,
Sam

 

[Voodoochile]

Quote:

Originally Posted by derek_lukasik Just finished up my Millett. Here are a couple of pics. I've decided I'm the worst case builder in the world.

Sorry man, but I've seen plenty worse.

You're looking pretty good, I think.

You might try trimming the shaft of your volume pot a bit to get the knob closer to the faceplate. An extra-fine hacksaw/jeweller's saw works well. I like to place the pot in a plastic bag, poke the shaft through and grip the shaft in a vise. Then trim it. As you are cased up already... I'd still remove the board from the case- and mount the shaft in a vise, bagging the entire circuit board to protect it from metal filings and debris.

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHLim What is your R1 and R2 value for Steps?

I think you probably meant R3 and R4 as you really shouldn't change R1 or R2 unless you really know what you're doing. The schematic values are the easiest way to go for these. If you did mean R3/R4 I generally use 100/2.0K or 120/2.0K as I feel they give the best range of useable voltages.

HTH,

Nate

 

[derek_lukasik]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher You may have a harder time finding the cap value you're looking for (470/35) but might I suggest taking a peak at this site and seeing if you can find something that'll work . Disclaimer(s): A. I'm not associated with that site but have used them in the past with decent results, B. I have never used that particular cap in a Millett and its size should be checked for fit before ordering.

I can verify that those caps do in fact work in the Millett. I used the ROA220 (C2), the ROA473 (C7) and the ROA221 (C1, C9, and C10) in the appropriate locations. They work great!

Derek

 

[stewtheking]

I have just finished my millett, and I am very happy with it, sounds fantastic with my RS-1's. HOWEVER, I did hit a bit of a snag when building. My regulated power supply failed to manage to provide enough power to heat up the tubes, and cut out, beleiving that the circuit was dodgy in some way. This problem was "solved" by adding a small resistor directly in the path from the power supply, thus neatly negating the beneficial effects of a regulated power supply.

Any ideas of a way around this? Anybody else encountered a similar problem? My resistor has solved the problem for the time being, but it's hardly an ideal solution!

Stew

 

[nikongod]

stew, get a more powerfull regulated psu.

 

[Erik S.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewtheking I have just finished my millett, and I am very happy with it, sounds fantastic with my RS-1's. HOWEVER, I did hit a bit of a snag when building. My regulated power supply failed to manage to provide enough power to heat up the tubes, and cut out, beleiving that the circuit was dodgy in some way. This problem was "solved" by adding a small resistor directly in the path from the power supply, thus neatly negating the beneficial effects of a regulated power supply. Any ideas of a way around this? Anybody else encountered a similar problem? My resistor has solved the problem for the time being, but it's hardly an ideal solution! Stew

Try to connect the psu to the amp, turn on the amp, then connect the psu into the walloutlet. This is what I have to do with my Mascot psu.

 

[stewtheking]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erik S. Try to connect the psu to the amp, turn on the amp, then connect the psu into the walloutlet. This is what I have to do with my Mascot psu.

That worked, but I can't be bothered faffing around with wall-sockets every time i want to listen!

Also, Nikongod, would a more powerful psu really be the answer, as opposed to putting, for example, a high-value cap directly in series with the power supply, to supply some of the warm-up current? Seems to me a bit of an ass-about-face way of doing it really, and rather expensive!

Anyhoo, nobody has any feindishly clever yet alarmingly inexpensive solutions?

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewtheking Anyhoo, nobody has any feindishly clever yet alarmingly inexpensive solutions?

Sure, put an inline switch between the power supply and the amp. Most of my amps now use a staged power arrangement so that I can turn the amp off idependant of the power supply.

Nate

 

[amb]

stewtheking, what kind of power supply is this that you're running? Is it a STEPS or TREAD? Or something else?

 

[Voodoochile]

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewtheking That worked, but I can't be bothered faffing around with wall-sockets every time i want to listen! Also, Nikongod, would a more powerful psu really be the answer, as opposed to putting, for example, a high-value cap directly in series with the power supply, to supply some of the warm-up current? Seems to me a bit of an ass-about-face way of doing it really, and rather expensive! Anyhoo, nobody has any feindishly clever yet alarmingly inexpensive solutions?

If that worked, you want a switch between the PSU and the powercord (120vac line), and have the amp and PSU wired together all the time. Amp comes on with the PSU, per Erik S's suggestion. It's a workaround, but works.

It does sound like the initial current demand that the Millett places on your PSU is exceeding it's capacity (charging up the Millett's caps). By connecting the amp and PSU directly, they both power up slowly and steadily, not overwhelming the regulator.

Off the cuff, it does sound like you need a fatter PSU. What are you using?