[Tequilasunriser]

^ I'd actually like to know more about that as well.
 
I was under the impression that when connected to optical the D1 receives raw data from the computer and that the D1's DAC is the device that decides the bit rate and sample rate from the source file. I may be wrong though. Clarification is definitely needed!

 

[milosolo]

This is exactly how I have my D1 connected into my main system. I have Rotel separates but I have never tried going straight into the amp from the D1.  
 
Quote:

I use the solid state out towards the tube amp, and I send my tube out to the NAD's preamp, but I wanted to bypass the NAD's preamp with the D1 ( to use the D1 as the preamp), however, the power amp section of the NAD just wasn't having it.
 
I tried both outs, tube and solid state (thinking maybe the tube in the D1 was messed up), still no go. :/

 

 

[talla242]

ok i just received my d1dac,i have to say thanks to the mav company for making an affordable dac,this thing has made my squeezebox duet shine,my flac rip of fleetwood mac's tango WG is absolutely stunning using the tube out,and this gets better with burn in?very happy guy here,thanks again!

 

[Tequilasunriser]

Quote:

This is exactly how I have my D1 connected into my main system. I have Rotel separates but I have never tried going straight into the amp from the D1.  
 


 

Try it and tell us about your experience! Use the D1 as your preamp.
 

 

[normalwrong]

For the OPA627, theres got lots of difference version of ebay like OPA627AU OPA627BP..
which one should i get..

 

[kswa1987]

Quote:

For the OPA627, theres got lots of difference version of ebay like OPA627AU OPA627BP..
which one should i get..

You'll want the OPA627AP, I believe.  But the OPA627 is a single channel OpAmp so you'll need two of them and an 2to1 adapter.  This website I found sells an OPA627 "super chip" that combines 2 (hopefully) genuine OPA627s on one chip.  I don't think the D1 has a space issue in the U5 slot (the DAC's OpAmp) so you should be able to go about it either way.  Just make sure it has an 8DIP connector.
 
DigiKey has great prices, thats where I got my LM4652 OpAmp.  I'm interested in getting a super chip myself from this website ($37): http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps  Certainly looks like a good deal considering on DigiKey you'd have to buy two OPA627s for $24.50 a pop.

 

[donunus]

Anyone successful in trying these as a preamp yet?

 

[Riverback]

Jeffrey from TamAudio sells them for cheap
http://tamaudio.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_46&product_id=80
 
The different opamp versions should sound the same. They're just different packages for different applications
 
Quote:

You'll want the OPA627AP, I believe.  But the OPA627 is a single channel OpAmp so you'll need two of them and an 2to1 adapter.  This website I found sells an OPA627 "super chip" that combines 2 (hopefully) genuine OPA627s on one chip.  I don't think the D1 has a space issue in the U5 slot (the DAC's OpAmp) so you should be able to go about it either way.  Just make sure it has an 8DIP connector.
 
DigiKey has great prices, thats where I got my LM4652 OpAmp.  I'm interested in getting a super chip myself from this website ($37): http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps  Certainly looks like a good deal considering on DigiKey you'd have to buy two OPA627s for $24.50 a pop.

 

 

[ounwx]

Just received my D1 this Monday as a replacement for my onboard audio. I like its looks, size, build quality, and certainly the sound as well. It's not necessarily leaps and bounds better-sounding than my Realtek analog out, but it's enough to notice at times.
 
Unfortunately, I have one nagging issue. Using both USB and S/PDIF (coax), I get a popping noise when switching manually between tracks in foobar2000. It's almost like the DAC can't handle abrupt changes in the incoming waveform without popping (I think I might have noticed the popping *within* songs that go straight from silence to loudness on one or two occasions). My onboard audio did not do this. The popping noise is not particularly loud (one other guy described a noise that he was afraid would damage his speakers; this isn't that bad, just annoying more than anything). Is this normal, or reason to consider sending it back for repair?

 

[SurfWax]

I saw on the first page that it says anything through USB gets downgraded to 16/48. Is this still true? 

 

[uelover]

Quote:

I saw on the first page that it says anything through USB gets downgraded to 16/48. Is this still true? 

Still true.
 

 

[SurfWax]

Whack. Thank you though. I still think I'll get this at the end of the month...I don't see anything else better for the price/options.

 

[uelover]

Quote:

Whack. Thank you though. I still think I'll get this at the end of the month...I don't see anything else better for the price/options.

 
Why would you need anything above 16bits/48khz??
 
All the musics I listen to are still 16bits/44khz.

 

[SurfWax]

I wanted to get into hi-rez music and be capable of playing it back, 24/96 is what I'm looking for. But I'll probably still get this.

 

[uelover]

Quote:

I wanted to get into hi-rez music and be capable of playing it back, 24/96 is what I'm looking for. But I'll probably still get this.

Just get a USB/Coax converter next time and you can get your 24/96 into D1.