[Exocer]

I was told by someone on this site that it's a 5x20, 1a rated

Was that me? If so, that was the spec for the ock-1. I’m not sure about the Ock-2.

 

[Boomboy]

Was that me? If so, that was the spec for the ock-1. I’m not sure about the Ock-2.

It was you via pm . Thnx . Ok ock-1 specs then

 

[dougms3]

If you're thinking of upgrading, I believe Alvin mentioned in his OCK-1 vid that the clocks come with decent fuses. Ceramic type IIRC.

I'll probably upgrade the fuse once I receive the ock2 and figure out what the specs are.

I doubt the stock fuse is going to be that good, its a free part, they're not going to give you something that good for free.

 

[Highfive99]

I'll probably upgrade the fuse once I receive the ock2 and figure out what the specs are.

I doubt the stock fuse is going to be that good, its a free part, they're not going to give you something that good for free.

Maybe you should contact Alvin and get his take on it since you are in doubt?? Have you watched his OCK-1 vid? I have the OCK-1 and have no plans to change the fuse as realistically I'd need to see some scopes of the waves with an upgraded fuse to see if a fuse makes a difference to the wave form which I doubt. Maybe it does but until someone posts proof of a more accurate wave form that results in an audible difference with a different fuse, I am not going in that direction. But go ahead and try an SR Purple for 30 days and see if you hear a difference.

 

[OCC7N]

I'll probably upgrade the fuse once I receive the ock2 and figure out what the specs are.

I doubt the stock fuse is going to be that good, its a free part, they're not going to give you something that good for free.

Try it first. Let it work for 300hours or so. Then buy SR or whatever, so you atleast hear the difference.

I also thought about changing(SR Purple) but I am not until I know how decent the stock is.

 

[dougms3]

Try it first. Let it work for 300hours or so. Then buy SR or whatever, so you atleast hear the difference.

I also thought about changing(SR Purple) but I am not until I know how decent the stock is.

Not gonna be getting an SR fuse, just going to upgrade the fuse to something better than the cheap $1 fuse thats in there.

 

[roderickvd]

For the sake of argument assuming that fuses do make a difference on power quality, the voltage regulation and PSRR of the LT3042’s is such that any difference would be too small to notice.

If it gives you peace of mind, however, that of course has no such measurement.

 

[dougms3]

Maybe you should contact Alvin and get his take on it since you are in doubt?? Have you watched his OCK-1 vid? I have the OCK-1 and have no plans to change the fuse as realistically I'd need to see some scopes of the waves with an upgraded fuse to see if a fuse makes a difference to the wave form which I doubt. Maybe it does but until someone posts proof of a more accurate wave form that results in an audible difference with a different fuse, I am not going in that direction. But go ahead and try an SR Purple for 30 days and see if you hear a difference.

Considering that when I changed out the fuse in the ares II, it made a noticeable improvement in the sound. I don't think I need to waste Alvin's time regarding the quality of the included fuse. Even the changing out the fuse in my LPS made a difference, not that much but enough.

How would you measure the waveform in a fuse? What criteria are you looking for? What device would you use to even measure that?

I use my ears to tell the difference, if I need measurements then my hearing has failed me.

If you don't want to upgrade your fuse thats fine, but I've had good results doing that in the past and I'll be upgrading mine.

 

[dougms3]

I don't know exactly what they put in there but the audiophile fuses are not just simple fuses. I've tried this aucharm fuse from aliexpress before with good results that don't break the bank. It looks like they contain the same ingredients as grounding boxes. Possible ingredients, tungsten, graphite, tourmaline, magnetite, rock salt, snake oil, ogre tears, etc.

No idea how or why these things work but if you've tried out a grounding box in your system, you know how significant an impact these things can make.

 

[sajunky]

How would you measure the waveform in a fuse? What criteria are you looking for? What device would you use to even measure that?

This is not snake oil inside fuse, but a contact barrier between fuse holder. If ev parameter of the material is different to a material on the fuse, then current start flowing only after exceeding a barrier. This problem is known to those are chosing material for contacts in relays and switches. The other factor is oxidation, a thin layer has to be broken, it only happens after exceeding certain voltage. Poor quality of a fuse holder is probably a biggest contributor.

But why this contact barrier is so important? A reason is on the other side: rectifier diodes and high frequency switching noise generated on diodes. Diodes do not switch off during zero crossing. They keep conducting reverse current for a few nano-seconds, then abruptly stop conducting. Energy of this transition must be unloaded somewhere. I not, it will contribute to noise of the power supply.

And now is a problem. This is a zero-crossing period where a barrier on the fuse holder is still not broken, noise cannot go out and dissipate outside of the equipment. Using special soft recovery diodes reduce high frequency noise, but do not eliminate. Tube rectifiers do not have this reverse current issue, only solid state diodes.

For a typical user fuse is a problem, so why not get rid of a fuse? Move a fuse outside, or solder fuse in a holder. This is how Audio GD solve fuse problem. They solder a fuse, heatshrink for safety, making it inaccessible to user, problem solved.

 

[dougms3]

This is not snake oil inside fuse, but a contact barrier between fuse holder. If ev parameter of the material is different to a material on the fuse, then current start flowing only after exceeding a barrier. This problem is known to those are chosing material for contacts in relays and switches. The other factor is oxidation, a thin layer has to be broken, it only happens after exceeding certain voltage. Poor quality of a fuse holder is probably a biggest contributor.

But why this contact barrier is so important? A reason is on the other side: rectifier diodes and high frequency switching noise generated on diodes. Diodes do not switch off during zero crossing. They keep conducting reverse current for a few nano-seconds, then abruptly stop conducting. Energy of this transition must be unloaded somewhere. I not, it will contribute to noise of the power supply.

And now is a problem. This is a zero-crossing period where a barrier on the fuse holder is still not broken, noise cannot go out and dissipate outside of the equipment. Using special soft recovery diodes reduce high frequency noise, but do not eliminate. Tube rectifiers do not have this reverse current issue, only solid state diodes.

For a typical user fuse is a problem, so why not get rid of a fuse? Move a fuse outside, or solder fuse in a holder. This is how Audio GD solve fuse problem. They solder a fuse, heatshrink for safety, making it inaccessible to user, problem solved.

Granted Kingwa's solution is better.

But that option is not available for the ock2.

All power coming into the master clock is coming through that fuse, whether you use the stock fuse or aftermarket, the fuse holders, whatever quality they are can't really be changed. The fuse itself can.

If all power coming into the device is going through the fuse, you can certainly see the benefit of a higher quality fuse. Just the conductivity alone should be beneficial.

 

[JaMo]

This is not snake oil inside fuse, but a contact barrier between fuse holder. If ev parameter of the material is different to a material on the fuse, then current start flowing only after exceeding a barrier. This problem is known to those are chosing material for contacts in relays and switches. The other factor is oxidation, a thin layer has to be broken, it only happens after exceeding certain voltage. Poor quality of a fuse holder is probably a biggest contributor.

But why this contact barrier is so important? A reason is on the other side: rectifier diodes and high frequency switching noise generated on diodes. Diodes do not switch off during zero crossing. They keep conducting reverse current for a few nano-seconds, then abruptly stop conducting. Energy of this transition must be unloaded somewhere. I not, it will contribute to noise of the power supply.

And now is a problem. This is a zero-crossing period where a barrier on the fuse holder is still not broken, noise cannot go out and dissipate outside of the equipment. Using special soft recovery diodes reduce high frequency noise, but do not eliminate. Tube rectifiers do not have this reverse current issue, only solid state diodes.

For a typical user fuse is a problem, so why not get rid of a fuse? Move a fuse outside, or solder fuse in a holder. This is how Audio GD solve fuse problem. They solder a fuse, heatshrink for safety, making it inaccessible to user, problem solved.

@sajunky
Thanks for an insightful post on this matter. It is most often "forgotten" or not in focus or seen at all. It may be OT for this thread and I think this along with HiFi- High End fuses and the effects of them should have it own thread. For us dedicated nerds with an almost obsessive urge to investigate "every corner" with tweaks and adjustment, this may be the next area to adress.

I have been replacing many stock diodes with "FRED's" (Fast Recovery Epitaxial Diode). I have got my FRED Diodes from Michael Percy Audio. I have been using these diodes to replace the stock ones in preamps, dac's and in line stages in many gears for some years now. I agree with @sajunky that the noise from the diodes in the rectifier part of the design can "pollute" as described. With the FRED's You are on another(higher) level with a lower noise. A cheap solution with a great result/J

An advertising text for the FRED's from Percy Audio's Catalog, https://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf page nine (9/24) Soft recovery...
"The FRED soft recovery and Schottky diodes are the high speed device of choice for rectification. Their fast response time, soft recovery, and lack of ringing and overshoot places them a big step beyond other high speed diodes which have much higher noise and distortion. Replacing your diode bridges with these (4 usually required) will yield significant improvements including increased dynamics, dramatically lower noise, and reduced grain and glare."

I think we should start up a HiFi/HighEnd Fuses thread... I hope You guys may do this. Thank You all, please start one up and link it to us.
/Jan

 

[OCC7N]

@sajunky
Thanks for an insightful post on this matter. It is most often "forgotten" or not in focus or seen at all. It may be OT for this thread and I think this along with HiFi- High End fuses and the effects of them should have it own thread. For us dedicated nerds with an almost obsessive urge to investigate "every corner" with tweaks and adjustment, this may be the next area to adress.

I have been replacing many stock diodes with "FRED's" (Fast Recovery Epitaxial Diode). I have got my FRED Diodes from Michael Percy Audio. I have been using these diodes to replace the stock ones in preamps, dac's and in line stages in many gears for some years now. I agree with @sajunky that the noise from the diodes in the rectifier part of the design can "pollute" as described. With the FRED's You are on another(higher) level with a lower noise. A cheap solution with a great result/J

An advertising text for the FRED's from Percy Audio's Catalog, https://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf page nine (9/24) Soft recovery...
"The FRED soft recovery and Schottky diodes are the high speed device of choice for rectification. Their fast response time, soft recovery, and lack of ringing and overshoot places them a big step beyond other high speed diodes which have much higher noise and distortion. Replacing your diode bridges with these (4 usually required) will yield significant improvements including increased dynamics, dramatically lower noise, and reduced grain and glare."

I think we should start up a HiFi/HighEnd Fuses thread... I hope You guys may do this. Thank You all, please start one up and link it to us.
/Jan

Great idea to have that thread. But personally if I don´t hear my system perform better with the master clock, I am not gonna do anything about tweaks etc...but if I hear a better performance, I might.

 

[sajunky]

If all power coming into the device is going through the fuse, you can certainly see the benefit of a higher quality fuse. Just the conductivity alone should be beneficial.

Certainly, not. The only requirement for a fuse is to get non-inductive, slow blown type of a correct nominal. Solder it in and I can assure you that you can safely gimme these $200 you spend on audiophile fuses, I deserve it. There will be no more arguing from my side.

Not going to open a separate thread, friendly reminder on any occasion where fuses are advertised works better.

 

[dougms3]

Certainly, not. The only requirement for a fuse is to get non-inductive, slow blown type of a correct nominal. Solder it in and I can assure you that you can safely gimme these $200 you spend on audiophile fuses, I deserve it. There will be no more arguing from my side.

Not going to open a separate thread, friendly reminder on any occasion where fuses are advertised works better.

Soldering the connection is an option and would offer a better connection but defeats the purpose of the fuse.

There is a fuse thread that exists already.

No one really cares enough about it but I'll be the guinea pig and test out an aftermarket fuse and report back.

If any one knows the fuse specs, would be greatly appreciated thanks.