Master Clock Talk

[duffer5]

The upgrade kit includes exactly what you see in the product photo—the main clock board, which is the core component that differentiates the OCK-2S from the original OCK-2. This board enables the second 10MHz output and delivers the improved performance that defines the “S” version, including better phase noise characteristics and dual-output functionality.

At $494 USD, the kit gives you all the benefits of the OCK-2S without needing to sell your current unit and buy a new one. I originally considered selling my OCK-2 to buy the 2S outright, but this upgrade path was far more cost-effective—and the result is identical in performance and functionality.

For those wondering: I confirmed that both the DC power board and the transformer module are exactly the same between the OCK-2 and the OCK-2S, so you're only replacing what actually needs to be upgraded.

Bottom line: If you already own the OCK-2, this kit is a smart, easy, and affordable way to bring your unit fully up to 2S spec.

Sorry no link. You will need to reach out to VinShine aka Alvin and ask directly for the kit. Not sure why it is not posted on their site.

 

[FredA]

The upgrade kit includes exactly what you see in the product photo—the main clock board, which is the core component that differentiates the OCK-2S from the original OCK-2. This board enables the second 10MHz output and delivers the improved performance that defines the “S” version, including better phase noise characteristics and dual-output functionality.

At $494 USD, the kit gives you all the benefits of the OCK-2S without needing to sell your current unit and buy a new one. I originally considered selling my OCK-2 to buy the 2S outright, but this upgrade path was far more cost-effective—and the result is identical in performance and functionality.

For those wondering: I confirmed that both the DC power board and the transformer module are exactly the same between the OCK-2 and the OCK-2S, so you're only replacing what actually needs to be upgraded.

Bottom line: If you already own the OCK-2, this kit is a smart, easy, and affordable way to bring your unit fully up to 2S spec.

Sorry no link. You will need to reach out to VinShine aka Alvin and ask directly for the kit. Not sure why it is not posted on their site.

Don't throw away the old board. Some diyer could give it a new psu. let's save the planet one little move at a time.

 

[Jake2]

Great stuff. That’s excellent news for us OCK-2 OG owners, many thanks @duffer5 for the thorough write-up, not to mention helping instigate Alvin and co to get around to offering this upgrade option!

 

[duffer5]

Great stuff. That’s excellent news for us OCK-2 OG owners, many thanks @duffer5 for the thorough write-up, not to mention helping instigate Alvin and co to get around to offering this upgrade option!

My pleasure, I am all for cost savings upgrades that make an impact. Enjoy!

@Jake2 @FredA – Curious to hear your thoughts on the measurements. I’m honestly a bit surprised by what LHY has managed to pull off at this price point. What do you think?

 

[Jake2]

@duffer5 I guess there’s some subtle differences between the OG 2 and 2S outputs that are labelled on the 2S but don’t match the OG labels externally. I’m mainly thinking the impedance on the OG 2 is set by internal jumpers (mine was defaulted all to 50 ohms) vs a fixed mix of 50 and 75 ohms on the 2S I believe?

Or were you able to specify the impedance of all six outputs when ordering?

 

[duffer5]

@duffer5 I guess there’s some subtle differences between the OG 2 and 2S outputs that are labelled on the 2S but don’t match the OG labels externally. I’m mainly thinking the impedance on the OG 2 is set by internal jumpers (mine was defaulted all to 50 ohms) vs a fixed mix of 50 and 75 ohms on the 2S I believe?

Or were you able to specify the impedance of all six outputs when ordering?

The impedance is factory set and locked per this photo best of my understanding.

 

[ray12345]

@duffer5 I guess there’s some subtle differences between the OG 2 and 2S outputs that are labelled on the 2S but don’t match the OG labels externally. I’m mainly thinking the impedance on the OG 2 is set by internal jumpers (mine was defaulted all to 50 ohms) vs a fixed mix of 50 and 75 ohms on the 2S I believe?

Or were you able to specify the impedance of all six outputs when ordering?

I don't think so, the 2S is designed with only one 75 ohm connector and two 50 ohm connectors each for sine and square waves. You can only change the grounding for each connection individually, not the impedance. Unlike the OCK-2 which has all 50 ohm connectors only, the OCK-2S has real 75 ohm connector on the two 75 ohm output.

 

[Jake2]

The impedance is factory set and locked per this photo best of my understanding.

Cheers, and I see the impedance isn’t actually labeled externally on the OCK-2S outputs either. So as for the OCK-2 OG it’s just a matter of remembering the impedance each output is set to, whether manually by jumper switch for the OG 2 or fixed in hardware set by the factory for the 2S.

 

[duffer5]

Cheers, and I see the impedance isn’t actually labeled externally on the OCK-2S outputs either. So as for the OCK-2 OG it’s just a matter of remembering the impedance each output is set to, whether manually by jumper switch for the OG 2 or fixed in hardware set by the factory for the 2S.

LHY provides stickers that go underneath to remind you of which ones are 50 and which are 75. Sine and square continues to be labeled on the unit.

 

[Jake2]

Even better, great!

 

[FredA]

My pleasure, I am all for cost savings upgrades that make an impact. Enjoy!

@Jake2 @FredA – Curious to hear your thoughts on the measurements. I’m honestly a bit surprised by what LHY has managed to pull off at this price point. What do you think?

You normally have to pay at least 2 to 3k for such performance, last time I checked, which was long ago.

 

[GingerBeard1]

I got my Ref10 Nano set up with the Hifi Rose RS130 and RD160. I am pleasantly surprised. I was skeptical, but curious enough to take the leap. I wish I could go back and forth quickly to figure out the differences, but it takes time to switch over. I have them connected with SFP fiber USB, I2S and AES/EBU, to play around with the different connections as well. Previously, using the RS130 clock sounded better using 12S, and AES, but now that the RD160 has the ref10 nano clock, the SFP sounds the best.

I'll keep playing and testing, as my skeptical side still accepts that the difference could be in my head. That aside it does sound fantastic!

 

[macrog]

It takes quite a while for clocks to settle to their best.

About 6 weeks for my Mutecs to be at their best. You are in for a treat

 

[GingerBeard1]

It takes quite a while for clocks to settle to their best.

About 6 weeks for my Mutecs to be at their best. You are in for a treat

Exciting! I bought some cheap 50Ohm BNC cables from amazon so I could start right away, but have some LMR400 cables coming.

 

[ray12345]

LHY provides stickers that go underneath to remind you of which ones are 50 and which are 75. Sine and square continues to be labeled on the unit.

Also, the 75 ohm is a real 75 ohm connector, which looks different to 50 ohm connectors, so it is very easy to tell.