[b0bb]

Good to see you are getting the desired results.
I also have the Schiit R2R Yggy and the modified LKS is equal to it and better than the Schiit in some areas.
 
It runs very warm on mine. The big heatsinks run about 45degC the smaller ones ones about 50degC.
 
Replacing the transistors will not change things, the heat is the waste energy due to the linear voltage regulator.
 
If your the heatsinks on your DAC is higher than the number I am seeing, check the AC voltage going into the DAC is within ±10% of the nominal spec.

 

[justbenice]

  Good to see you are getting the desired results.
I also have the Schiit R2R Yggy and the modified LKS is equal to it and better than the Schiit in some areas.
 
It runs very warm on mine. The big heatsinks run about 45degC the smaller ones ones about 50degC.
 
Replacing the transistors will not change things, the heat is the waste energy due to the linear voltage regulator.
 
If your the heatsinks on your DAC is higher than the number I am seeing, check the AC voltage going into the DAC is within ±10% of the nominal spec.

Thank you. Now i know why it getting hot, my AC voltage in the night going to over 230V. 

 

[justbenice]

I got a pair of Supreme Sound Opamp V5 here, swaped it with my old Muses01 for a analog output stage. The sound is pretty good! I will tell more details about it after it completely burnin.
 

 

[b0bb]

  I got a pair of Supreme Sound Opamp V5 here, swaped it with my old Muses01 for a analog output stage. The sound is pretty good! I will tell more details about it after it completely burnin.
 

Once this is done burning in, a comparison between the Burson and the Sonic Imagery in the I/V converter position would be interesting.

 

[justbenice]

 
Once this is done burning in, a comparison between the Burson and the Sonic Imagery in the I/V converter position would be interesting.

I want to compare it too. But Burson said it is not recommended for the I/V stage.

 

[Adde01]

Hi,
 
I'm new to this forum and I just got my MH-DA003 yesterday with the upgraded USB board. I have been reading a lot about this DAC and I'm very happy that there are so many enthusiast who already made some great mods to this unit. I have a couple of questions:
 
- I live in Sweden where we have 230v. The Antec AN-0107 only seems to work with 110v. Any recommendation of an equal transformer that I could use?
- The Antec AN-0107 seems to have two 7v output. Should we use one or both outputs?
- I only use the Balanced(XLR) outputs. Where should I put the pair of Ticha 994 and where should the pair of muse01?
- Would it be better to use four Ticha 994?
 
 
Thanks in advance
 
Best regards
/Adam

 

[b0bb]

  Hi,
 
I'm new to this forum and I just got my MH-DA003 yesterday with the upgraded USB board. I have been reading a lot about this DAC and I'm very happy that there are so many enthusiast who already made some great mods to this unit. I have a couple of questions:
 
- I live in Sweden where we have 230v. The Antec AN-0107 only seems to work with 110v. Any recommendation of an equal transformer that I could use?
- The Antec AN-0107 seems to have two 7v output. Should we use one or both outputs?
- I only use the Balanced(XLR) outputs. Where should I put the pair of Ticha 994 and where should the pair of muse01?
- Would it be better to use four Ticha 994?
 
 
Thanks in advance
 
Best regards
/Adam

 
Welcome.
 
The Antec has 2 primary windings, put them in series for 230v use, suggest you check with Antek to see if this is approved for use in Sweden.
Connect the 2x7V secondary windings in parallel.
 
If you are unsure, ask someone local with the required electronics knowledge for help, connection errors with power transformers can result in dangerous consequences.
 
Talema makes a near equivalent Part #62030, Digikey sells it for 24 Euros.
http://www.digikey.se/product-search/en?keywords=1295-1059-ND
 
For balanced use, the Muses is not required, its part of the unbalanced analog filter chain.
No benefit from 4xTichas for your balanced only application.
 
If you are interested in an upgraded Ticha, there is a version with Vishay S-Foil output load resistors and TiN (Titanium Nitride) feedback resistors, it adds about 60% to the base cost.
Check with Sonic Imagery to see if they still offer the upgraded version, this is the version I am using.

 

[Adde01]

Great thanks
 
 - Ok, I have contacted Sonic Imagery Labs about buying two: Model 994FC-Enh-Ticha
 - I have contacted Antec regarding the power transformer for 230v input
 - Which opamp should I replace on the board? There are four dip8 sockets. I don't know which is ised the the XLR output.
 
Thanks

 

[b0bb]

   - Which opamp should I replace on the board? There are four dip8 sockets. I don't know which is ised the the XLR output.
 

 
The Ticha is the big green square one in the middle of the picture.

 

[Adde01]

Ok, and the two above I just live it with the original opamps right? I thought that the opamps that needed to be changed for the XLR ouput was the ones above. 
 
One more question. Why is there a difference if we put in a seperate power transformer for the USB power supply? The power tranformer for that is already in the dac has two outputs where one is not used. Could you please explain the difference.
 
This is what I got from Sonic Imagery Labs:
 
The Model 992FC-Enh-Ticha single is a higher output current drive option 
(150mA vs 175/200pk mA) and the 3 resistors in the audio path are 
replaced with (1) TaN type in the internal comp and (2) Vishay Naked 
Foil type in the drive stage. This option is special order and adds 
$40.00 to the cost of the opamp. ($89.00 total/ qty 1-4 pcs)
 
The 994 is the DUAL opamp equivalent of the Model 992
The Model 994FC-Enh-Ticha DUAL is a higher output current drive option 
and same components above replaced. This option is special order and 
adds $80.00 to the cost of the opamp. ($174.00 total/ qty 1-4 pcs)
 
I also got a response from Antec. I just need to serial connect the AC input to get the 230v. Only one channel will be used to power the USB board. Could I use the other channel to make a 12v trigger out port? But that is only 7v so maybe I can use the standard power transformer to make the 12v trigger out. Will that be wrong? Or will that interfere with the sound quality?
 
Thanks

 

[b0bb]

  Ok, and the two above I just live it with the original opamps right? I thought that the opamps that needed to be changed for the XLR ouput was the ones above. 
 
One more question. Why is there a difference if we put in a seperate power transformer for the USB power supply? The power tranformer for that is already in the dac has two outputs where one is not used. Could you please explain the difference.
 
This is what I got from Sonic Imagery Labs:
 
The Model 992FC-Enh-Ticha single is a higher output current drive option 
(150mA vs 175/200pk mA) and the 3 resistors in the audio path are 
replaced with (1) TaN type in the internal comp and (2) Vishay Naked 
Foil type in the drive stage. This option is special order and adds 
$40.00 to the cost of the opamp. ($89.00 total/ qty 1-4 pcs)
 
The 994 is the DUAL opamp equivalent of the Model 992
The Model 994FC-Enh-Ticha DUAL is a higher output current drive option 
and same components above replaced. This option is special order and 
adds $80.00 to the cost of the opamp. ($174.00 total/ qty 1-4 pcs)
 
I also got a response from Antec. I just need to serial connect the AC input to get the 230v. Only one channel will be used to power the USB board. Could I use the other channel to make a 12v trigger out port? But that is only 7v so maybe I can use the standard power transformer to make the 12v trigger out. Will that be wrong? Or will that interfere with the sound quality?
 
Thanks

The ES9018 has balanced output, the XLR balanced drive comes straight out of the current-voltage (I/V) convertor (the Tichas)
The decision of changing the opamp for the unbalanced side is up to you, it is not needed for XLR operation.
 
The USB interface on the LKS has a galvanic noise isolator, the enhanced USB board must be powered separately, if you reuse the the existing transformers, the noise from the computer will have a way to get into the DAC.
 
994FC-Enh-Ticha DUAL  is the best option, this has the widest range of Class-A operation of about 26-28mA, the ES9018's maximum current output is 32mA, the I/V convertor operates in Class-A mode about 88% of the time. (The numbers for max load current the manufacturer quotes is for Class AB mode, this mode is not good if you are after a good sounding DAC)
 
You have to use both secondary 7V windings for the USB board, a single winding may not supply enough power to keep the board stable, the board might continue to work but the performance of the Crystek Femtoclocks will be affected.
 
Use a power sensing strip with an adjustable trigger and plug in a 12V wallwart or transformer for the 12V trigger.
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-SCG4-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000L9A7ZS/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1458296327&sr=1-9&keywords=smart+power+strip

 

[Adde01]

Hi,
 
Thanks for your answer. 
 
- You was right about the Antec AN-0107. Just needed to serial connect the AC input. The I will parallell connect the 7v output to make sure I get enough current
- I will order a pair of 994 FC for the I/V stage. 
- I would like to change the clock but the one you recommend seems to have a different size. Will it fit?
 
Thanks

 

[b0bb]

  - I would like to change the clock but the one you recommend seems to have a different size. Will it fit?

 
The bigger Crystek will fit the pads on the  PCB.
 
There is also a thru-hole mounting on the board, these are the 4 holes drilled around the stock crystal.
 
The footprint is a 14-pin dip socket, all the pins except the 4 on the corners are removed, the XO can be put onto an adapter and plugged in.
Twisted Pear sell them
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx
 
Scroll down to the bottom of the pace, $USD 8.50 at the time of writing

 

[justbenice]

Nice instructor B0bb, the hardest part when i modded my LKS 003 is solder out the old small Crystek  Clock and solder  in the bigger clock. I wish i known the clock  mounting board that time.

 

[b0bb]

A couple of photos of the Crystek mounted on the adapter.

 
The other side

 
Dip socket for the Crystal
http://www.mouser.se/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey1108800