LKS Audio MH-DA003
Sep 6, 2018 at 5:34 AM Post #826 of 838
The LKS uses the Amanero Combo384 USB to I2S board
The datasheet contains the pinout of the module: http://www.amanero.com/drivers/combo384-D.pdf

The Tiger board is a derivative of the Amanero according to its website, suggest contacting the manufacturer for further assistance.

Has anyone tried to replace the DIYinHK Xmos in place of the Amanero yet ? I would love to do this
 
Jan 25, 2019 at 4:12 AM Post #832 of 838
The original blue capacitor on the Amanero PSU is 0.1u. Why do you recommend to replace it with WIMA MKS2 10uF? (just asking)

Is there a complete list of changes to be made on the main LKS 003 PCB with BOM?
 
Oct 14, 2019 at 5:56 PM Post #834 of 838
Good to see you are getting the desired results.
I also have the Schiit R2R Yggy and the modified LKS is equal to it and better than the Schiit in some areas.

It runs very warm on mine. The big heatsinks run about 45degC the smaller ones ones about 50degC.

Replacing the transistors will not change things, the heat is the waste energy due to the linear voltage regulator.

If your the heatsinks on your DAC is higher than the number I am seeing, check the AC voltage going into the DAC is within ±10% of the nominal spec.



Hello,

I've replaced the diodes and voltage regulators. Unfortunately, the heatsinks on the voltage regulators run very hot - especially the one on the right side - nearest to the side wall. The other 2 seem to be significantly cooler, but quite warm as well. The DAC turns itself off after a while - probably a kind of thermal protection. My voltage regulators were equipped with very small heatsink and thermal pads (the grey ones). I used those pads mounting the new regulators. The LKS heatsinks are quite big compared to the ones that came with the regulators, so something seems seriously off.
As of the sound - I cannot really say anything yet if that changed anything.
Please help - thanks in advance.
 
Oct 15, 2019 at 12:05 AM Post #835 of 838
Hello,

I've replaced the diodes and voltage regulators. Unfortunately, the heatsinks on the voltage regulators run very hot - especially the one on the right side - nearest to the side wall. The other 2 seem to be significantly cooler, but quite warm as well. The DAC turns itself off after a while - probably a kind of thermal protection. My voltage regulators were equipped with very small heatsink and thermal pads (the grey ones). I used those pads mounting the new regulators. The LKS heatsinks are quite big compared to the ones that came with the regulators, so something seems seriously off.
As of the sound - I cannot really say anything yet if that changed anything.
Please help - thanks in advance.
Post photos of the mod you did. The original LKS heatsinks must be reused otherwise the regulators will overheat.
 
Oct 15, 2019 at 2:22 AM Post #836 of 838
Post photos of the mod you did. The original LKS heatsinks must be reused otherwise the regulators will overheat.
Thank you Bobb for your response.
Here are the photos:
MGsoMKQZDzk2MYbW6

pCjZditRWCgyu8RX8



In your futher notes, I've found that for the new regulators the tantalum capacitors need to be used. They weren't listed initially for the mods, hence they are not present in my unit. Can this be the reason of overheating?
 
Oct 15, 2019 at 11:54 PM Post #837 of 838
Thank you Bobb for your response.
Here are the photos:
MGsoMKQZDzk2MYbW6

pCjZditRWCgyu8RX8



In your futher notes, I've found that for the new regulators the tantalum capacitors need to be used. They weren't listed initially for the mods, hence they are not present in my unit. Can this be the reason of overheating?

Your photos did not attach properly.

The tantalum caps help with stability of the regulator.
Overheating may be due to oscillation, but I would double check the heatsinking arangements before doing this.
 
Dec 11, 2020 at 8:54 AM Post #838 of 838
Great stuff b0bb
 
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