Livewires 'unBling' mod...
Dec 7, 2007 at 5:37 AM Post #31 of 72
honestly, the connectors that earpeace uses are very stout. They have a solid "snap" connection and outside of the unsightly gold plating, which i'm kinda used to, they are very solid and quite nice.

Part of the connector's appeal is the ability to rotate the connection 360 around which you won't find in the other connectors. Please see livewire's website for a nifty little .gif.

I wear my wires up and around the top of the ear to stop all that silly microphonics.

And just a word of warning, watch those pelican micro cases. They have a sharp edge on the lid that, when closed, provides that air tight/water tight/dust tight seal but also can leave a very nasty crease into your cables.
 
Dec 7, 2007 at 6:44 AM Post #32 of 72
Quote:

Originally Posted by Low Fidelity /img/forum/go_quote.gif
honestly, the connectors that earpeace uses are very stout. They have a solid "snap" connection and outside of the unsightly gold plating, which i'm kinda used to, they are very solid and quite nice.

Part of the connector's appeal is the ability to rotate the connection 360 around which you won't find in the other connectors. Please see livewire's website for a nifty little .gif.



I totally agree. The 360 swivel design is brilliant and I would hate to see it go.

Thanks for the warning about the Peli case!
 
Dec 7, 2007 at 12:54 PM Post #33 of 72
Here are your options.

1. Metal primer. The poster that said that is correct. And, this may sting a little, but you have to do more than just clean them. Paint, and no, not even primer, will stick to slick metal. You're going to have to sand them. Not a lot. Just with 600+ grain sandpaper. Or at minimum, go to town with the steel wool. I would suggest taping off the connector part, and the cables. Scuff the hell out of them with steel wool, then get black metal primer. Go to town, they're tiny. Be sure to keep the can far away. Thin thin layers. Build it up a little. Then you can just leave the black metal primer, as it will be black, and matte. You might also consider self-etching primer, although that's a bit unnecessary.

NOTE: THE ABOVE PROCESS FOR PAINTING METAL IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT, AND IS NON-REVERSIBLE.

1, sub a. After priming connectors, consider using an enamel to cover them. Either a single stage car enamel, or even sprayable model paint. This will give you a gloss black.


2. Tool dip. Tape off the areas that need to be saved. Tape the inside of the connector off. If you can find a small plastic sleeve that will fit over the connector, I would recommend putting that on. Leave the gold part that you want covered up exposed. Dip in tool dip. Let dry. Very carefully cut off the part around the part of the connector that still needs to be gold. Enjoy your rubbery new look.
 
Dec 7, 2007 at 4:39 PM Post #34 of 72
Quote:

Originally Posted by luckypictures /img/forum/go_quote.gif
2. Tool dip. Tape off the areas that need to be saved. Tape the inside of the connector off. If you can find a small plastic sleeve that will fit over the connector, I would recommend putting that on. Leave the gold part that you want covered up exposed. Dip in tool dip. Let dry. Very carefully cut off the part around the part of the connector that still needs to be gold. Enjoy your rubbery new look.


Now that sounds interesting, never heard of that before...
 
Dec 7, 2007 at 6:34 PM Post #35 of 72
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rav /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Now that sounds interesting, never heard of that before...


Just what I was thinking.....take a look at this:

Plastidip
 
Dec 7, 2007 at 9:20 PM Post #36 of 72
Quote:

Originally Posted by luckypictures /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Here are your options.

1. Metal primer. The poster that said that is correct. And, this may sting a little, but you have to do more than just clean them. Paint, and no, not even primer, will stick to slick metal. You're going to have to sand them. Not a lot. Just with 600+ grain sandpaper. Or at minimum, go to town with the steel wool. I would suggest taping off the connector part, and the cables. Scuff the hell out of them with steel wool, then get black metal primer. Go to town, they're tiny. Be sure to keep the can far away. Thin thin layers. Build it up a little. Then you can just leave the black metal primer, as it will be black, and matte. You might also consider self-etching primer, although that's a bit unnecessary.

NOTE: THE ABOVE PROCESS FOR PAINTING METAL IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT, AND IS NON-REVERSIBLE.

1, sub a. After priming connectors, consider using an enamel to cover them. Either a single stage car enamel, or even sprayable model paint. This will give you a gloss black.


2. Tool dip. Tape off the areas that need to be saved. Tape the inside of the connector off. If you can find a small plastic sleeve that will fit over the connector, I would recommend putting that on. Leave the gold part that you want covered up exposed. Dip in tool dip. Let dry. Very carefully cut off the part around the part of the connector that still needs to be gold. Enjoy your rubbery new look.


I would pay for you to perma-paint the connectors black.
 
Dec 12, 2007 at 6:47 PM Post #37 of 72
Looks good, I don't like the gold colour much really either. Not to do with it standing out (but its really nasty colour), as I kind of like that (people can easily see you have IEM on, and don't try speaking to you etc, e.g. randoms). I hate it when I'm out in the public area, and someone stops me etc and I have my iem in and they try speaking and end up having to take them out lol.
 
Jan 9, 2008 at 1:05 AM Post #38 of 72
3 coats of epoxi paint...

livewiresmod1.jpg

livewiresmod2.jpg
 
Jan 9, 2008 at 8:45 AM Post #40 of 72
Quote:

Originally Posted by matias m. /img/forum/go_quote.gif
3 coats of epoxi paint...

livewiresmod1.jpg

livewiresmod2.jpg



Wow, now THAT looks the business!
 
Jan 9, 2008 at 5:26 PM Post #43 of 72
OK... Here's the fix to permanently blacken the *exposed* ends of the connectors without using paint, dips, etc.:

- Pick-up a bottle of Brass Black.
- Mask the connection that inserts into the IEM and where the cable meets the connector, as shown in the previous poster's images.
- Lightly apply the solution with a q-tip or other applicator and let dry.
- Apply until the level of blackness is achieved.

You're done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top